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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Benchtop Machines > I need some tips on manually milling some rad's
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    I need some tips on manually milling some rad's

    I'm making these small parts. This is my fixture I bolt to my rotary table.


    So some of these parts have thicker tabs then others. The issue is the radius on the outter edge has to be the same as the 10mm id.

    So what I am doing is dialing my fixture in zero to my mills spindle.
    Then I move my X axis until the edge of my endmill is inline with the edge of my 10mm ID.
    That way I can move my part the distance I need on my rotary table to get my thickness and maintain that radius.

    However, this fixture sucks, it can rotate slightly. So what I am wondering is how I can improve this set up.

    I was thinking milling a keyway inbetween the upper and lower half of my fixture so it cant rotate. Any other thoughts?




    Then something I might be on my own with is, I need to rotate my part 180 degrees so I can mill the other side. Since I have my part offset on the rotary table, I can't just rotate the table. I'm kind of forced to rotate the part.

    Any ideas on how I could accurately rotate the part besides scribing lines and eyeballing it?


    Thanks for any ideas guys!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    313
    Quote Originally Posted by chronic View Post

    However, this fixture sucks, it can rotate slightly. So what I am wondering is how I can improve this set up.

    I was thinking milling a keyway inbetween the upper and lower half of my fixture so it cant rotate. Any other thoughts?
    Nice fixture.

    Rather than a keyway, how about a couple sets of pins offset by your required amount between the upper and lower halves? Pins would be very easy to do and would provide a repeatable setup. You could also machine a larger center pin for the lower fixture that would mate to the center hole of your rotary table.
    ~Don

  3. #3
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    Feb 2010
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    Pins are a great idea!

    However, I need to be able to adjust this by .019" increments.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    313
    How many increments? Maybe you could have a separate upper fixture for each of the parts with two sets of pins which mate to the lower fixture in the appropriate place.
    ~Don

  5. #5
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    Feb 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by degreaser View Post
    How many increments? Maybe you could have a separate upper fixture for each of the parts with two sets of pins which mate to the lower fixture in the appropriate place.
    Ditto on the increment count. This months "home machinist" has an article on gear making that has a spur gear and wedge used as a indexer-that article is amazing on its own regard.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    724
    Quote Originally Posted by mattbesquare View Post
    Ditto on the increment count. This months "home machinist" has an article on gear making that has a spur gear and wedge used as a indexer-that article is amazing on its own regard.
    read it and you are correct great info and great ideas steel spur gears can be found at just about any hobby/RC store in many different tooth counts
    Also check out the machinists workshop mag as it has a good article on a modular dividing head as well as a few other great projects, not necessarily geared toward the OP question but good stuff anyway

    I should start charging my co-workers a fee for stealing my mags they are expensive at newstand price but well thought out and well put together

  7. #7
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    Feb 2010
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    Well, these parts vary by .019", so I would probably need to make 4 different upper fixtures in order to get a decent sized pin in there with out them intersecting each other. Unless I staggered the pins.

    I appreciate the suggestions! Another good one I got was a dove tail.

    However I just made a new lower section, and milled a keyway in, kept it tight, and it seems like it should work well.


    I've been hearing alot about this magazine, I need to subscribe!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    0
    I think I'm happy for now. Yesterday I was pretty frustrated, but this is working pretty good. Its not as efficient as I wanted, but I'll be happy with it since it works.

    I made a new lower half like I mentioned.

    Put a nice tight key way in there, and its working great.

    Now I can dial in my fixture to my endmill, throw a dial on my piece, slide it out to my tabs thickness, cut it.

    Rotate the rotary table 180, then move the piece back to zero, then out the thickness of my next tab and cut that one. This way both tabs are inline with each other, no more eye balling.

    The key way only permits about a half thou of twisting movement right now which is more than alright.



    Only bummer is I needed to adjust my upper fixtures height and was hoping I had enough material between it and my bolts. Guess not. Oh well, they still lock my parts and I dont think I'll have a problem with it so, what ever.

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