[berntd]

Hello,

I am contemplating on purchasing a sherline mill and then upgrading it to a stepper or servo cnc system.

As I am not completely sold on the Sherline idea yet (there is also the X2 type mill), I would very much would like to hear from others who have such a setup.

I want to make clock parts, gear blanks, engrave clock dials etc.

Kind regards
Bernt

[Crevice Reamer]

The Sherline WILL make tiny parts, but you cannot upgrade it to ball screws. If you are contemplating an X2, which you should it's a lot more mill, get the one from LMS:

http://littlemachineshop.com/3900

CR.

[kanton]

Crevice Reamer replied "The Sherline WILL make tiny parts, but you cannot upgrade it to ball screws. If you are contemplating an X2, which you should it's a lot more mill, get the one from LMS:
http://littlemachineshop.com/3900 "

While I respect Crevice Reamer and his advice for about $300 more you could start with a Grizzly G0704 which is probably better made, stiffer and has a larger work envelope as described here:
http://grizzly.com/products/G0704 .

[kanton]

Deleted double post.

[MrWild]

While I respect Crevice Reamer and his advice for about $300 more you could start with a Grizzly G0704 which is probably better made, stiffer and has a larger work envelope as described here:
http://grizzly.com/products/G0704 .

I agree. Last Fall I paid $380 with tax for my HF X2 so the idea of spending $650 plus shipping for a slightly larger work envelope doesn't make sense. Not when you get so much more for a little more outlay. Sure, you get a small increase with the LMS machine, but you still get the weak base column mount. Start aggressive machining and the head starts flexing all around.

[mc_n_g]

I have a CNC Sherline and love it. I use it for small plastic injection molds 4" x 6". You can upgrade a Sheline to ball screws using http://www.a2zcnc.com/. Ball screws or table size should be only one of your concerns.
Ball screws should be only one of the things you use to make your decision. You need to understand your tolerances, part size, how you are going to hold it, etc. You need to make sure you can measure with repeatability to surpass your tolerance level. Don' cheap out on things and expect 0.0001" parts.
Learn a good CAD and good CAM program. This is what makes it happen. If you are going into this blind I would strongly suggest you do your research to understand what you are getting into. All this can be very expensive and technically challenging.

[g29cc]

I don't see ball screws on A2Z's website ? Maybe I am missing them.

One thing to make mention of , is your going to use this to make production parts or things of that nature, definitely count out the Sherline. Its a good machine ( I own a few of them ) , but they wear out super fast if your doing production.

I also have a A2Z machine as well.

[kanton]

You could also consider a Taig mill.

[dneisler]

I had a sherline and it just wouldn't do what I needed. Seemed like it was only happy if it was doing light cuts of .005 or so. I upgraded to a X3, and have never looked back. If you can afford it, the X3 with the cncfusion deluxe kit is hard to beat.

[Crevice Reamer]

You could also consider a Taig mill.

That might be a viable option for you, and can come CNC ready with only slight asembly required for only $1700:

http://deepgroove1.com/cncmill.htm

CR.

[mc_n_g]

I stand corrected. I always thought the Kerk precision leadscrews were ballscrews rather than precision screws.
My error.

[DMF_TomB]

my Sherline mill experiences are it is a good little machine

1) it works better with small endmills 3/16" or smaller and depth of cut 0.040" or less. A 1" flycutter sure maybe only good for 0.005" depth of cut.

2) it is not the most rigid for heavy cuts. obviously a milling machine you can pick up (not heavy) is not the same as a 2200 lb Bridgeport.

3) if you push a Sherline expect to have to retighten screws after some time and have to replace drive belt.

4) I like Sherline because it is made in the USA and parts and accessories and upgrades are available from Sherline and other companies. Sherline sells everything you need to buy it already CNC or upgrade a Sherline to CNC.

5) Sherline sells accessories for making gears. for example rotary table, gear cutting flycutter, etc. In fact the Sherline accessories is why mostly I prefer a Sherline mill. They have a lot to choose from.

6) if threading on a Sherline usually that is done by hand turning headstock with a crank. for fine thread i actually like it as you have a lot of control and do not have to worry about threading too far into a shoulder and breaking anything. when hand cranking for thread you can feel the torque. but a coarse thread like 3/4-10 would be difficult on a Sherline.

7) Sherline is good for clock making and model making. I use a Sherline mill at work for small stuff that I need a headband magnifier to see. I find it easier to make small parts on a small machine.

8) if you check with a dial indicator the vise as a Sherline mill is cranked in X or Y or Z axis expect it to vary 0.002" as it travels. I suspect a heavy hand just turning cranks can push / bend the little machine. Sure you can tighten the slides (gibs) but then it is harder to turn the dials. Do not expect to hold 0.0002" tolerances with an end mill.

Bottom line I like Sherline equipment but will admit it takes a certain type of machinist with a light touch to be able to make small stuff.

[Fastest1]

Go big! What ever it is. I have a Sherline that was originally a light machines. I ripped off all of the original electronics. Put together a hobby cnc pro controller board and their steppers and run it on Mach3. It works great for what it is. I then replaced all of the Sherline parts with A2zcnc parts X, Y & Z mod with the Kerk screws mentioned. It has a much larger envelope than before and is smoother. That all being said, the Sherline will always have parts and a loyal following. They are great if you are workng in foams, plastics, wood and metals (you have to be patient). 1 of the things I have learned even with the small machines is you have to push them. Yeah it sounds a little violent taking a deeper cut with the Sherline but it turns out it will do a .0750 doc with a .250 4fem @ 4-6 ipm, with good results. It is a great and relatively inexpensive way to learn about all of the aspects of cnc. Not knocking the other brands but if you look at what has been done with Sherlines, it is amazing. Now that I know a little more, I do crave a larger machine. Maybe an Industrial Hobbies? With times like they are economically just buy a Hass VMC. Probably get a lightly used one for cheap or for less than what I have in my A2ZCNC. LOL Either way you will be able to sell it when you move up. Also unlike the above user, I have my spindle set up with an index and a Homann's speed controller. Threading is an automatic affair. Look at youtube under username "CncObsession". There are plenty of examples of a Sherline and or A2ZCNC in use. I wont tell you who that idiot is! ;-)

[Fastest1]

Then I reread your post. For clock parts it would be ideal and quiet.

[g29cc]

I agree for clock parts it will probably work good. I guess the production is where I would really draw the line. You can make parts on a big machine that are tiny as well.

The A2Z machine is good for what it is. I wouldn't have spent the money on it for what I am doing though. Lesson learned.

The Kerk Screws are prone to breaking. I ve broken them already. I machined one and sent one back and bought a spare. But it is what it is.

The gibs need to be tight enough that they wear fast in my opinion. Again bear in mind this is in a production setting. The antilash nuts wear fast as well. Leaving you with slop.

The design of the A2Z machine is on par or better then the original Sherline, but its not intended for sustained use.

I would look at a steel machine base vs aluminum base for anything that is going to require "work" and not just an occasional cut here and there.

Sherline has good support, and parts are totally available. But when your lathe only lasts 10 hours or less and you have to replace the bed and other misc parts, then I don't see that being worth while.

Again please remember these are in semi-production to production type settings ( the lathe was really semi ). The mill was more semi as well, but getting closer to a production unit.

The bottom line, the Sherline is a good toy as our their predecessors and add ons. If you are really going to machine a part from steel or do repetitive work, then look for something more durable and solid.

I am not going to say you can't get it done with the Sherline, but it will take alot longer to setup then it would one a "real" machine ( take that with a grain of salt please ).

And don't get me wrong, I like my little Sherline type machines. They just don't work for what I use them for all that well.

[Fastest1]

I agree for clock parts it will probably work good. I guess the production is where I would really draw the line. You can make parts on a big machine that are tiny as well.

This weekend I got to try out a small bridgeport (1/2 hp 110v) with a collet spindle smaller than R8 but I am not sure what it was. It would cut full width of a 2fem in aluminum .75 doc. This was a manual machine. Of course I always wanted a bigger machine but I wasnt sure why. Now I do! Go big! He is right about the steel. Btw how did you break the Kerk's? Though I do see that they arent either centered very well or appear that way.

[g29cc]

The ends of the screw being Sherline sized on the Kerks is why they break. They are too small and should be bigger and beefier for what your doing. You have to make sure your adapter and mounts are square as well ( from A2Z ). Another person told me their mount was .017 out of square.

I have 387 oz motors on the A2Z setup. Thats enough to snap the screw easily I would say.

Those I do have rapid capability of 250 ipm , but they resonate badly. I run around 160 ipm rapids and cut wood at 60-120 ipm depending on what cutter , wood and profile etc.

[Fastest1]

The ends of the screw being Sherline sized on the Kerks is why they break. They are too small and should be bigger and beefier for what your doing. You have to make sure your adapter and mounts are square as well ( from A2Z ). Another person told me their mount was .017 out of square.

I have 387 oz motors on the A2Z setup. Thats enough to snap the screw easily I would say.

Those I do have rapid capability of 250 ipm , but they resonate badly. I run around 160 ipm rapids and cut wood at 60-120 ipm depending on what cutter , wood and profile etc.

Wow that is some high speeds for the A2Z stuff I would think. I might have played in the 30ipm range maybe up to 40 but I will have to tinker at higher speeds but rarely do I cut softer materials. I should as it would go faster and I would learn more in the long run with less damage to all things.

[g29cc]

When cutting aluminum , I have run at 60 ipm , but with .010 DOC .187 2 flute flat end mill. It cut nicely, just took forever. Running deeper DOC's and running slower on these machines is not the answer I have found. They lack the rigidity and repeatability.

Novakon and Tormach both offer mid size machines that are very nice and comparable in price ( right now Novakon has NM 145's for around $6000 ).

I know its alot of money to spend compared to buying a Sherline. But if there is any serious machining to be done down the road, you would be VERY happy you spent the money.

I wish I would have NOT bought and built my A2Z cnc machine, and I wish I could sell it. But for the amount of money I have into all the special Sherline parts, I would lose too much. While the machine specifically cuts wood now, I would I had a CNC router instead ( would move way faster ).

But it is what it is. Its not bad for a quick prototype if the other machines are tied up. It just takes longer.