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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Electronics > CNC Machine Related Electronics > How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)
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  1. #101
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    57
    sorry to be dumb but i have been to my local electronics shop with no luck, however i have found these on ebay can you tell me wether they are the right parts, many thanks.
    Item number: 280570913470
    Item number: 130409743407
    Item number: 130364525258

  2. #102
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    Jan 2011
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    0
    Yes Those should do. also read your PM

  3. #103
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    Jan 2011
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    57
    thanks i have ordered the parts when they arrive i will pm you.

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    0
    Hi!
    I have one of those TB6560 boards on order (the 4 axis version).
    4 Axis TB6560 CNC Stepper Motor Driver Board Controller - eBay (item 300410191798 end time Feb-16-11 03:11:58 PST)

    Is Necessary connect only two axis. Will be a damage or no?

  5. #105
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by sptry View Post
    Hi!
    I have one of those TB6560 boards on order (the 4 axis version).
    4 Axis TB6560 CNC Stepper Motor Driver Board Controller - eBay (item 300410191798 end time Feb-16-11 03:11:58 PST)

    Is Necessary connect only two axis. Will be a damage or no?
    You need good skill on electronics and soldering or there is a chance that you'll damage the board. Take help from your friend in this case.

  6. #106
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    Jan 2011
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by sptry View Post
    Hi!
    ...
    Is Necessary connect only two axis. Will be a damage or no?
    What is your question ? if you want to use only 2 of the 4 channels that will be fine. Will there be damage, sure if you wire it wrong I guess.

  7. #107
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    Feb 2011
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    0
    Thank You!
    yes, I want to use only 2 of the 4 channels.
    I can solder well.
    That I must do?

  8. #108
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    Feb 2011
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    0
    Controller new. Not yet bound. I is Afraid to damage.

  9. #109
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    Jan 2011
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by sptry View Post
    Thank You!
    yes, I want to use only 2 of the 4 channels.
    I can solder well.
    That I must do?
    Yes If you want to fix some problems on the board you need to replace some surface mount parts. Maybe they have a new version of the board and have already fixed this, I don't know. Look some posts back on what I did to make mine work, then you see what is needed to be done. Do all channels even if you only use 2. If you are not 100% sure about the soldering then be careful, this tracks break easy and smd parts also. Soldering well and soldering surface mount parts is two completely different things. Hope this answers your questions. You can also try something else like this kits (have not tested them myself so don't know how they are)

  10. #110
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    Feb 2011
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by GrootWitBaas View Post
    Yes If you want to fix some problems on the board you need to replace some surface mount parts.
    Yes, I shall do this to change.
    I feared combustion of free channels (without engines).

  11. #111
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    Jan 2011
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    so which board will work with 3 axis except that toshiba without changing anything?

  12. #112
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    1397
    Quote Originally Posted by linkintiger View Post
    so which board will work with 3 axis except that toshiba without changing anything?
    There are a lot of good quality drivers than don't need to be "fixed" to get them working... and which CAN be fixed cheaply if they are broken.

    And there is no reason why you must limit yourself to one board with 3 axis on it, you can have one board /per/ axis and then hook all the boards to a single port with a "break out board" (which can be as simple and cheap as an old parallel printer cable with one end cut off, or as expensive as a Gecko 540).

    These cheap chinese boards are "false economy"; you think you are saving money, but in the end you spend so much time tweaking, fixing, repairing that you could have built the drive yourself. And the cost of repair is almost as much as the cost of the board in the first place.

    The real question is what will give you the wattage drive you need for /your/ application and be as cheap as possible while still being a QUALITY drive.

    watts = supply voltage times rated motor amps. You can calculate the wattage you need for your given torque and RPM or weight and IPM using the calculator at:
    www.piclist.com/techref/io/steppers.htm#Estimating

    If you are a starving student, and want to learn but have no money and you have medium small unipolar motors to drive buy the high quality, open source, Linistepper (up to ~75watts) or a SLAm (up to 120watts) kit or bare PCB and build it yourself. There are open source bipolar drivers from PMinMO. Easy to repair if you fry. If you are driving more than 120 watts, just buy Gecko 251's and enjoy the warranty.

    If you are a serious hobbyist don't get sucked into the "penny wise, pound foolish" thing. Invest in a nice Gecko or a /quality/ kit if you want to trade some time for money.

    But don't buy cheap Chinese crap and hope you will get lucky.

  13. #113
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    Jan 2011
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    1) so with Nema 23 Stepper Motor 270oz-in,3A which board will you recommend? any web site or link will be very helpful.

    2) it might be a silly question but , how do you know you motor are skipping steps? the mach 3 software tells you on the screen or you can tell by looking at the process of cutting?

  14. #114
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    1397
    Quote Originally Posted by linkintiger View Post
    1) so with Nema 23 Stepper Motor 270oz-in,3A which board will you recommend? any web site or link will be very helpful.
    Again:
    www.piclist.com/techref/io/steppers.htm#Estimating It isn't the motor that's important, it's what you're trying to move with the motor. You can always run the motor at fewer than it's rated amps, as long as the volts * amps is enough power to move the load.

    Quote Originally Posted by linkintiger View Post
    2) it might be a silly question but , how do you know you motor are skipping steps? the mach 3 software tells you on the screen or you can tell by looking at the process of cutting?
    Without encoders, the CNC software has no way of knowing if the motor skipped. You are going to see the result in the part you are cutting; it will be malformed. That's why you want to measure the actual physical parameters of the axis you are going to move and then use the calculator on the page above to find the watts, then voltage * amps that you need to drive that actual load (plus a safety margin) so you /don't/ ever skip.

  15. #115
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    Jan 2011
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    it's hard to weight the parts when everything is connected with the bearings on the table but i can move everything without the problem with one finger.

    but is not heavier then 20 lbs without the routher with routher it might weight more maybe 30lbs

  16. #116
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    Jan 2011
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    0
    that link show to buy linistepper but on other post i found they not recommended to buy this board with my motors.

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    35
    Quote Originally Posted by James Newton View Post
    There are a lot of good quality drivers than don't need to be "fixed" to get them working... and which CAN be fixed cheaply if they are broken.

    I just crossed that line.

    I've spent the past week screwing with this 3 axis tb6560, added the extra buffer, changed capacitors, replaced 5 tb6560's from miswired motors (ok, that was my fault) and now I think its time to take this board out to the shooting range.


    This $70 board is now a $120 hunk of crap, not including the 20 to 30 hours I have of messing with it trying to get more than 20 IPM on all 3 axis

  18. #118
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    Jan 2010
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    2141
    Quote Originally Posted by robertf03 View Post
    I just crossed that line.

    I've spent the past week screwing with this 3 axis tb6560, added the extra buffer, changed capacitors, replaced 5 tb6560's from miswired motors (ok, that was my fault) and now I think its time to take this board out to the shooting range.


    This $70 board is now a $120 hunk of crap, not including the 20 to 30 hours I have of messing with it trying to get more than 20 IPM on all 3 axis

    What is the best caliber to use when shooting TB6560 boards?

    And when are they in season? Is there a bag limit?


  19. #119
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by doorknob View Post
    What is the best caliber to use when shooting TB6560 boards?

    And when are they in season? Is there a bag limit?


    i'm thinking 54r, imported garbage vs imported crap

  20. #120
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    0
    12 gauge shotgun should work, tell me where i' m gona bring mine too.

    robert ...what board are you gonna buy next?

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