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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Electronics > General CNC Machine Related Electronics > How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)
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  1. #881

    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    hi guys. i have a tb6560ahq 4 axis.all of mach3 configuration is true.but y axis is not working.the y led is lighting but stepper is stoped.

  2. #882
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    Wow, I have only just found this, now 10 year old thread if immense TB6560 knowledge.

    I’m glad I have though as I bought a CNC water jet table that has been rebuilt using this driver board. The board that is in it isn’t working currently. It appears that some of the capacitors and FB307 diodes got too hot. I have a new board on the way but I’m also working through the current board with a multi meter and replacing what I can find that’s bad si I have a backup board.

    This thread is going to be a huge help....

  3. #883
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    So having read through some more of this thread (sorry, I've done the book report version so far and read about the first 10 pages and about the last 7 or so) and hoping that some of the original contributors are still monitoring this.

    If or should I say, inevitably, when this new board I have coming blows smoke, how easy will it be to replace this with the Gecko G540 controller? Should I stup up for the whole kit? It looks like the Gecko runs at 48V where as the current board runs at 24v.

    Though it looks like the motors I have could take it. I have the KL23H286-20-8B steppers.

    It looks like there are a few versions and I don't know what would be best. My table is 7' x 12'. the bed and rail frame are steel but the gantry is aluminum.

    I can provide pics and info for anything specific you may ask.

  4. #884
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    did you ever have the machine working ?


    looking at the motors data sheet

    Attachment 438490

    https://www.automationtechnologiesin...H286-20-8B.pdf



    G540 pdf
    G540 REV8 Manual.pdf



    I would set the G540 motor current to 2.8A and see if the motors work OK on your machine

    the motors inductance with the coils wired in parallel is higher than I would like 6.8 mH instead of about 2.5 mH

    using the rule of thumb on page 3 of the G540 manual
    32 x square root of the inductance = optimum driver supply voltage


    a motor with a coil inductance of 2.5 mH needs the driver supply voltage to be
    32 * (?2.5) = 50.6VDC


    a motor with a coil inductance of 6.8 mH needs the driver supply voltage to be
    32 * (?6.8) = 83VDC !!!!
    ( note the G540 supply limit is 50V )

    reducing the supply to 50V limits the maximum speed you can step


    John
    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #885
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    I receive the new blue board and parts for my old board today. I'm going to look over this thread again before plugging the new board in to be sure the settings are correct.

    Right now when I plug my old board to the power supply the power supply shuts down, so there's something on the board that it doesn't like. Right now I have changed out the large capacitors as at least one of them had burst and some of the diodes by the lower green connections are bad so I'm going to change them today but I'm not sure that they will be the cause of the short??

    My motors are wired in series, I'm at best a noob with electronics but when I tested the motors with my multi meter I was getting a 6 ohms reading so that's how I found that out.

    My power supply is only 24V - 6.5 amp. That sounds pretty under rated per your calcs above

    How is changing how my motor is wired going to help?

    Like I said, I'm very green with electronics.

    Thank you for your reply!

  6. #886
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    So my new board arrived and it is noticeably different and yet the same. I'm hoping that they have taken care of many of the problems that have hampered many of you in the past.

    Here are some pics for you all to look at and compare. If you need any specifics on the components, I'll try to help you out until it's installed.

  7. #887
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    Did you get a manual with the new board so you know if you can set the current to 2.8A ?
    and do you have the manual for the old board to see what the motor curren was set to ?

    the TB6560 IC used on the board is going to limit your supply voltage to 24V

    its not clear from the photos what value of the 8 resistors used on the 2 boards to monitor the motor current are

    its not easy to see what colour the bands on the resistors are

    knowing the colours of the bands the resistor value can be decoded

    depending on the version of TB6560 used
    TB6560AHQ: 3.5 A (peak) R sense 0.15 ohms ?
    TB6560AFG: 2.5 A (peak) R sense 0.2 ohms ?

    with the coils wired in parallel you need to set the motor current to 2.8A -
    this has the advantage of the inductance being 6.8 mH so you will be able to step the motor faster

    with 3 axis you may be able to get away using the old power supply
    but I would replace it with a new 24V 10A power supply


    with the coils wired in series you need to set the motor current to 1.4A
    the down side the inductance rises to 27 mH

    John

  8. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by john-100 View Post
    Did you get a manual with the new board so you know if you can set the current to 2.8A ?
    and do you have the manual for the old board to see what the motor curren was set to ?

    the TB6560 IC used on the board is going to limit your supply voltage to 24V

    its not clear from the photos what value of the 8 resistors used on the 2 boards to monitor the motor current are

    its not easy to see what colour the bands on the resistors are

    knowing the colours of the bands the resistor value can be decoded

    depending on the version of TB6560 used
    TB6560AHQ: 3.5 A (peak) R sense 0.15 ohms ?
    TB6560AFG: 2.5 A (peak) R sense 0.2 ohms ?

    with the coils wired in parallel you need to set the motor current to 2.8A -
    this has the advantage of the inductance being 6.8 mH so you will be able to step the motor faster

    with 3 axis you may be able to get away using the old power supply
    but I would replace it with a new 24V 10A power supply


    with the coils wired in series you need to set the motor current to 1.4A
    the down side the inductance rises to 27 mH

    John
    Mine is the AHQ chip set, 3.5amp. I do not have the manual for the new board and have just sent a message to the seller as it is supposed to be included on cd.

    All 4 axis are wired but there are only three, x - up and down the table, y - across the gantry and z to raise and lower the torch though I’m not sure if the x axis is being run from one or if C is running it in parallel with x.

    Don’t the motors have more torque in series? The gantry on this table is 9’ long. I suppose it’s something I’ll need to play with. I’ll just be happy to get it fully functional before I start changing anything.

    Another mod I might make in the future is to change it from running in belts to gear driven but I know that will open up a whole new bag of worms.

  9. #889
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    with a TB6560AHQ

    I expect you will set the current to 75% ( 3.5 x 0.75 = 2.625A ) a bit less than the 2.8A but should be OK with 94 % of the motor torque

    to get near to 1.4A for series connection
    is not easy with the 25 , 50, 75 & 100 % of 3.5A steps available with the DIP switch
    25% = 0.875 A too low and 50% = 1.75 A too high ! you need a setting of 40%

    for a given coil the torque increases as you increase the current through the coil
    the magnetic field increases as Ampre Turns increases

    looking at the data for the motor you can pass 1.4A through the coils in series or 2.8A through the coils in parallel

    if the coils have 1000 turns

    then the Ampre Turns will be in series 1.4 x 2000 or in parallel 2.8 x 1000 either way gives you 2800 AT

    the maximum current set in the data sheet will be to avoid saturating the core and keep the I squared R losses down so the motor does'nt over heat
    for your motor the losses are about 11.5 to 12 Watts

    if you wire the coils in series so the inductance is higher it takes a longer time for the current to build up to 1.4A then it would take to reach 2.8A in parrallel

    this limits the rate you can step the motor

    John

    PS

    not sure if your boards DIP switch is going to be like this

    Attachment 438548

  10. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by john-100 View Post
    with a TB6560AHQ

    I expect you will set the current to 75% ( 3.5 x 0.75 = 2.625A ) a bit less than the 2.8A but should be OK with 94 % of the motor torque

    to get near to 1.4A for series connection
    is not easy with the 25 , 50, 75 & 100 % of 3.5A steps available with the DIP switch
    25% = 0.875 A too low and 50% = 1.75 A too high ! you need a setting of 40%

    for a given coil the torque increases as you increase the current through the coil
    the magnetic field increases as Ampre Turns increases

    looking at the data for the motor you can pass 1.4A through the coils in series or 2.8A through the coils in parallel

    if the coils have 1000 turns

    then the Ampre Turns will be in series 1.4 x 2000 or in parallel 2.8 x 1000 either way gives you 2800 AT

    the maximum current set in the data sheet will be to avoid saturating the core and keep the I squared R losses down so the motor does'nt over heat
    for your motor the losses are about 11.5 to 12 Watts

    if you wire the coils in series so the inductance is higher it takes a longer time for the current to build up to 1.4A then it would take to reach 2.8A in parrallel

    this limits the rate you can step the motor

    John
    Ok, so to go from series to parallel it’s just about taking the 4 loose cables and doubling them up to the appropriate ‘partner’ color, correct? And then changing the dips to suit.

    I set the new board to the old boards dip settings to start out with ( after I took the pics ) just to see if it’ll work. The y axis did and the x was trying to but I think the belts were too loose and the gantry wasn’t moving smoothly so I stopped it. I can look into the dip settings again tomorrow.

    Will I need to change anything in mach3?

  11. #891
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    Quote Originally Posted by john-100 View Post
    with a TB6560AHQ

    I expect you will set the current to 75% ( 3.5 x 0.75 = 2.625A ) a bit less than the 2.8A but should be OK with 94 % of the motor torque

    to get near to 1.4A for series connection
    is not easy with the 25 , 50, 75 & 100 % of 3.5A steps available with the DIP switch
    25% = 0.875 A too low and 50% = 1.75 A too high ! you need a setting of 40%
    Correct me if i'm wrong but I see a fault in you logic. I thought that you could essentially provide all the amps you wanted to and that the circuit would simply draw what it needed and that if you gave it too many volts then that's what would fry it? When you are figuring out power supply needs, you always go bigger with the amps but keep the voltage the same.

    So if I were to set the dips at anything from 50% and up then the motors would have access to 100% of the amps they would need while they are still wired in series, though just for safety's sake, I'll try them at 25% and then 50% but not go any higher than 50% as it is simply not needed. Also I remember reading in a few places since starting down this rabbit hole that the amp rating on these stepper motors is more of an indication of their power economy than the actual limit of what they can take.... did I get my wires crossed, so to say, with that one?

    My dips on the new board are currently set as follows;
    X - 75% current, 50% decay, 1/8 step
    Y - 75% current, 50% decay, 1/8 step
    Z - 50% current, 50% decay, 1/2 step
    C - 75% current, 50% decay, 1/8 step

    These are the original board settings. I did this as a start point as the table was working at some point with those specs. I'm going to drop the current dips to 50%.

  12. #892
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    Ok, I have a good one now. Everything is plugged in, my Y and Z axis are moving great. My X axis is being weird. My X steppers are mostly running in opposite directions to each other. I say mostly because they occasionally run in the same direction. They also swap what direction they are going in, even when just pressing the same direction button over and over???

  13. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by waynethewelder View Post
    Ok, I have a good one now. Everything is plugged in, my Y and Z axis are moving great. My X axis is being weird. My X steppers are mostly running in opposite directions to each other. I say mostly because they occasionally run in the same direction. They also swap what direction they are going in, even when just pressing the same direction button over and over???
    Well I kept playing with various setting as suggested by users in the stepper motors section of this forum and continued to search for others with the same or similar issue.

    The fault that seamed to come up the most was a bad connection somewhere. So once I quickly went through trying various settings, I decided to go through every connection I could find.

    Bad connection 1- one of the direction wire connectors on my X1 stepper was badly corroded. Cleaned that up and carried on.

    Bad connection 2 - on the same line ( not sure if it was the same direction wire) one of the direction wires was not clamped into the connection correctly. Just touching it. Stripped back the wire a little and clamped it in correctly. Checked all the others while I was there.

    Eureka!!!! I ran a small program and it was perfect. I then spent the rest of my afternoon replacing some access panels and cleaning up the cable routing in my control tower as I’d made a mess of it all.

    First pic is the trial run ( my soap stone snapped part way through)
    Second pic is the board setup.
    Third pic is where I found the loose connection.

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