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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Electronics > CNC Machine Related Electronics > How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)
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  1. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by pudzian View Post
    The CNC driver arrived in such a bad shape ( one corner partially smashed, full of dirt and some grease, broken screws and the parallel port was a little bent) that I'm affraid of power it on with my stepper motors so I want to make sure that I'm taking minimum risks of killing my steppers.

    My stepper motors are NEMA 32 3.1Nm that will draw 2.1A in series (more info here: http://cnc4you.co.uk/resources/60BYGH301B.PDF ) and will be powered by a 24v 15A power supply.

    Should I be worried?
    If you are concerned, add a 2-3 amp fuse. It will protect the motors.

    Do not use the series configuration. Use parallel. Moving torque is more useful than holding torque.

  2. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by H500 View Post
    If you are concerned, add a 2-3 amp fuse. It will protect the motors.

    Do not use the series configuration. Use parallel. Moving torque is more useful than holding torque.
    Thanks for the advice. I could find any fuse at home so took a shot and tried to assemble averything. Nothing worked and since I never had a working system I'm not sure of what may be wrong.

    This is my setup:

    Desktop:
    Intel e2140
    2 GB RAM
    160GB SATA
    PCI controller with a Parallel port LCS-6019 configured as EPP+ECP in BIOS


    Steppers and Driver:
    3 Axis TB6560AHQ without any mod yet
    3 NEMA 23 3.1Nm Steppers ( http://cnc4you.co.uk/resources/60BYGH301B.PDF )
    12v 20A Power supply

    I'm using these stepper motors as Bipolar series which according to the documentation will draw 2.1A and because of these I have configured the DIP switches like this:




    1 AND 5 OFF and all of the others ON. 1OFF | 2ON is supposed to give me 50% of current = 1.5A. This is not the 2.1A of the documentation but I was afraid of using the 75% which is equivalent to 2.25A, 1.15A over the limit.

    I know the power supply is weak, but I'm still waiting for my 24v power supply to arrive. In the meantime this should be enough just to see the steppers moving :-(


    The first thing I did was to download the linuxcnc live CD and run it. The configurations I downloaded from the linuxcnc wiki ( LinuxCNC Documentation Wiki: TB6560 ). I then connected the driver to the PC WITHOUT any stepper motor just to see if I could see the access leds blinking while moving the axis.

    The first thing it happens is that three leds lights up as soon as I connect the parallel cable to the PC and turn the power supply on. If I connect the driver without the power power supply and just the parallel cable the same three lights turn on dimly. When I connect the power supply they get very bright.

    Without the PS on:


    With the PS on:


    I loaded a G code sample and started the operation and nothing happened :|

    The multimeter confirmed that no voltage was geting to the A+-/B+- of any pin axis. Because I wasn't sure that the parallel port was correctly detected and configure under linux (even though I had the /dev/lp0 and /dev/lp1 available).

    Then I installed Windows XP Home 32bits and MACH3. The LPT port is correctly detected but I had the same problems: No activity leds blinking :-(

    I then decided to take the risk and connect a stepper motor. The Z and Y axis are dead, but the X axis shows 6 volts between A+ and A- without any command sent from the MACH3. The stepper does some noise when connected and it looks like static noise.



    The computer, parallel controller, steppers, driver and PSU are all brand new so I have no idea on how to troubleshoot this system.

    Is there any way of testing all of the elements separately?

  3. #663
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    I'm not really familiar with the board, but be sure you assert the enable pin, or there will be no motion.

  4. #664
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    You may have fried your driver chips. You should never power up the board without the motors connected.

  5. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty Steve View Post
    You may have fried your driver chips. You should never power up the board without the motors connected.
    Hi,

    After all that I've read here I thought that the only thing I shouldn't do is to connect the steppers to the driver if the driver is already powered on.

    Anyway I've found out that the problem was due to a damaged 74hc14 and a problem with the parallel port.

    I was using a PCI parallel port that for some reason cannot have the legacy I/O addresses assigned. I tried the DOS configuration tool nmdosin.exe, but the settings keep beeing reseted after rebooting the computer.

    I'm going to try to find another PCI Parallel controller or switch computer.

  6. #666
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    Dec 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by pudzian View Post
    I've read all this thread because I'm another person with this driver. I know all of the main hacks that I have to do but my board seems to be different from yours and so I would like you to please confirm what I have to do

    Remove the Opto Isolators and place jumper wires


    Should I be worried?
    The jumpers you show will probably not work for the enable lines. On a 3-axis board they need to go straight across rather than diagonal. see circuit on second page of thread.

    You can leave the optos in for the enable lines if you like. This will make the mod simpler.

    Else it looks good. the 10k resistor removal will lower your noise. I suggest trying each mod one at a time.

  7. #667
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    Quote Originally Posted by pudzian View Post
    I was using a PCI parallel port that for some reason cannot have the legacy I/O addresses assigned. I tried the DOS configuration tool nmdosin.exe, but the settings keep beeing reseted after rebooting the computer.

    I'm going to try to find another PCI Parallel controller or switch computer.
    I suggest using this technique to check if your port and parallel cable are working properly. You only need a multimeter and trial of mach3.
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uglCm_qsojk]CNC Electronics 5 -Testing the Parellel Port.wmv - YouTube[/ame]

  8. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty Steve View Post
    You may have fried your driver chips. You should never power up the board without the motors connected.
    That will not harm the drivers. I do it on a semi-permanent basis.

  9. #669
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    Is there any modification that can help smooth out higher feedrates? I've jumpered the step optos, removed resistors, and replaced timing caps. All these helped. Haven't tried jumpering all optos.

    I get a jittering from my steppers at higher speeds requardless of microsteps, or current setting percentage. This creates a vertical pattern in my pieces, not relative to part geometry, also has jitter pattern in straight X or Y passes. Less pronounced at lower speeds, very faint pattern at 5mm/s.

    1.8 degree motors, almost seems like the motor higher torques or 'snaps' into magnetic alignment as it passes each tooth of the rotor.

    Running constant velocity Mach3, going to test LinuxCNC tomorrow.

  10. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neon22 View Post
    The jumpers you show will probably not work for the enable lines. On a 3-axis board they need to go straight across rather than diagonal. see circuit on second page of thread.

    You can leave the optos in for the enable lines if you like. This will make the mod simpler.

    Else it looks good. the 10k resistor removal will lower your noise. I suggest trying each mod one at a time.
    Hello Neon22,

    Thanks for your response.

    I've managed to get the PCI parallel port to work. It was a driver related problem and now everything works, but I think it is extremely slow!

    I tried to use a jumper wire between pin 2 and 4 of each optos without success (nothing happens). I tried to search the schematics to remove the optos on 2nd page as you said but couldn't find anything.

    I could find though, another post that is sugesting the same thing I did:

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl_Williams View Post
    A simple way to fix the driver ic clock problem is to remove the opto-coupler for each clock line and place a jumper wire in the dip socket to connect the 74HC14 to the clock pin directly. The only caveat is that clock lines from the parallel port won't be optically isolated from the driver anymore. I've got the 5-axis board and only using 3 of the axis so I only jumpered 3 of them. Check out the before and after oscilloscope waveforms taken at the clock pin of the TB6560 chip. After adding the jumpers my machine runs fast without losing steps.



    This time I'm just going to jumper those three optocouplers and see what happens.

    Anyway, I have another issues ...

    I bought a 24v 15A but while it doesn't arrive I'm using the 12v rail from an ATX PSU to test the steppers. Also, since I cannot use the steppers in bipolar parallel mode because it would draw 4.2A each I'm using them in bipolar series mode.

    But the tb6560 settings don't allow me to go near the 2.1A. 25, 50, 75 and 100% are 0.75A, 1.5A, 2.25A and 3A respectively (I'm using the 3A as MAX current to calculate the percentages, not the 3.5A peak, is this correct?) so I'm using the 1.5A setting which is far below the required 2.1A? Could this be the problem?

    I've seen people that replaced a resistor from the dip switches to use a right amount of current for their steppers, could someone do the same thing for me?


    Just one more question: If I used the 2.25A setting would this kill the steppers?

    Thanks!

  11. #671
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    May 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty Steve View Post
    Is there any modification that can help smooth out higher feedrates?
    Get a decient stepper motor driver?
    James hosts the single best wiki page about steppers for CNC hobbyists on the net:
    http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/steppers.htm Disagree? Tell him what's missing! ,o)

  12. #672
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty Steve View Post
    I get a jittering from my steppers at higher speeds requardless of microsteps, or current setting percentage.

    1.8 degree motors, almost seems like the motor higher torques or 'snaps' into magnetic alignment as it passes each tooth of the rotor.
    The old round motors are not really made for microstepping. The steps tend to be uneven. However, I would not expect it to be as noticeable at high speeds. Do you have a video?

  13. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by pudzian View Post
    I bought a 24v 15A but while it doesn't arrive I'm using the 12v rail from an ATX PSU to test the steppers. Also, since I cannot use the steppers in bipolar parallel mode because it would draw 4.2A each I'm using them in bipolar series mode.
    Bipolar parallel will not draw 4.2A. It would draw whatever your drive is set to.

    Bipolar series with a 24v supply is a capital crime. If your motor inductance is greater than 1 mH, don't use it unless you enjoy watching your machine stall at low speeds.

  14. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by H500 View Post
    Bipolar parallel will not draw 4.2A. It would draw whatever your drive is set to.

    Bipolar series with a 24v supply is a capital crime. If your motor inductance is greater than 1 mH, don't use it unless you enjoy watching your machine stall at low speeds.

    You are absolutely right. I have no idea why I wrote that since I knew that that is probably the main funtion of the driver: chopping current.

    About the bipolar series, I wired them that way because I was expecting to configure the driver to give the exact 2.1A that the steppers need using that configuration but since I can't (I have no idea of which resistors to replace to provide this axact current value and therefor I'm using them with a 1.5A configuration) I'm going to set them up to bipolar parallel and set the driver to the maximum 3A (3.5 peak).

  15. #675
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    did you see a big improvement on the board when using the 74hc? i replaced my caps with 100pf and grounded my heatsink screws and noticed a HUGE difference in noise.I also removed the fan plug and wired it directly to the 12v psu. i removed the resistsors but steppers didnt like it at all.
    I have some 74hc chips but i also have a new board and its a little different so i havent added the chip yet because i cant tell which lines to add the wires to.
    I have the 3 axis board and apparently everything is different except for the cap mod.
    I would also like to jump the isolators but there is some confusion on which way to jump them on the 3 axis boards(diagonally or straight up) so if anyone could clarify that would be great.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 014.jpg  

  16. #676
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    i have a few questions for the guys running these drivers.
    i purchased(traded) for a 3 axis and 4 axis board. the dip switches i was told were set to properly run my motors(1-4 on, 5-6 off) and i was told not to mess with them. i am running a spectralight/sherline machine with the original round motors(see pic). i plan on running 24v 15a psu. but i believe the driver i got with the machines was only 12v(burned up driver when recieved) is this going to damage these motors? i was told no but i am just checking my source. i had to replace two can type capacitors on the 3 axis, one was leaking and another was installed backwards and bulged. i have not done any modifications apart from adding on leads to the input plug. what should i do to get this running correctly and reliably? i am currently getting ready to run with the 3 axis board.
    pics of both boards when i received them and a pic of one of my mills is attached.
    thanks.
    Kevin.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails driver boards.jpg   mill 1.jpg   mill 2.jpg  

  17. #677
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpen047 View Post
    did you see a big improvement on the board when using the 74hc? i replaced my caps with 100pf and grounded my heatsink screws and noticed a HUGE difference in noise.I also removed the fan plug and wired it directly to the 12v psu. i removed the resistsors but steppers didnt like it at all.
    I have some 74hc chips but i also have a new board and its a little different so i havent added the chip yet because i cant tell which lines to add the wires to.
    I have the 3 axis board and apparently everything is different except for the cap mod.
    I would also like to jump the isolators but there is some confusion on which way to jump them on the 3 axis boards(diagonally or straight up) so if anyone could clarify that would be great.
    The 100pf mod DID make a huge difference. Before that I could only run the steppers up to 240mm/m and after that I can use them with twice the previous velocity.

    I also tried to remove the optoinsolators but using a jumper wire between the 2nd and 4th pin of each one of them didn't improve the results. I still need to remove the current resistor but I'm not sure of which resistor is because I have several 10k resistors on the board.

    My steppers are rated for 4.2A but right now they are starving because this driver only gives them 3.0 at most. Anyway, at 12v I can use them at 600mm/m without problems. Not much I know, but still a big improvement. :-)

  18. #678
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    Quote Originally Posted by pudzian View Post
    The 100pf mod DID make a huge difference. Before that I could only run the steppers up to 240mm/m and after that I can use them with twice the previous velocity.

    I also tried to remove the optoinsolators but using a jumper wire between the 2nd and 4th pin of each one of them didn't improve the results. I still need to remove the current resistor but I'm not sure of which resistor is because I have several 10k resistors on the board.

    My steppers are rated for 4.2A but right now they are starving because this driver only gives them 3.0 at most. Anyway, at 12v I can use them at 600mm/m without problems. Not much I know, but still a big improvement. :-)
    Now we need to find out how to incorporate the chip mod and see what happens. im stuck at 15.2 in/m or 386mm/m before i start losing steps. but that my be the power supply and i have current set pretty low.

  19. #679
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    Ok just finished installing the 74HC14 and what an amazing difference!!! im at 24 ipm 1/16 with no missed steps! would like to know which way to jump the isos though on the 3 axis board.
    Thanks everyone!

  20. #680
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    Ok just finished installing the 74HC14 and what an amazing difference!!! im at 24 ipm 1/16 with no missed steps! would like to know which way to jump the isos though on the 3 axis board.
    Thanks everyone!

Page 34 of 45 24323334353644

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