[Fastest1]

Bob, you would need a VFD for a 3 phase motor.


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[CFLBob]

Thanks, Fastest1. I thought so.

A more powerful spindle is fairly low on my priority list right now, but it's still on the list.

First priority is to finish the basic CNC conversion, though, and I'm wiring up the motor controllers. I should be taking the mill apart to start modifying it soon.

[bgriggs]

Here is my thread about the Motor and belt drive. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...ric-motor.html. Yes you need a VFD for a 3 phase motor unless you have 3 phase electricity already. The motor I used is a 1.5HP Leeson motor.

[CFLBob]

Thanks, Bill.

I need to do some reading on motors and the trade-offs of picking one. I really don't understand the what's going on. I'm a retired electrical engineer, but big motors like this are one thing I never worked on.

[bgriggs]

A bigger motor (more HP) is capable of delivering more Torque so the bit doesn't bog down as easily. You machine has to be stiff enough to absorb the extra grunt though. I also can run this motor at a higher RPM so I can use different cutters than I normally would. I am using Gwizard to help me zoom in on what works best.

I saw several threads where people were putting bigger 3 phase motors on the G0704 so I figured I would go that route instead of the treadmill motor. I never could get the Weisse factory to answer my emails so I never could get the motor Hoss is using.

I don't want to hijack Hoss's thread so if you have more to ask/say about this please do it in the other thread mentioned in post #6567.

Bill

[Fastest1]

Here is my thread about the Motor and belt drive. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...ric-motor.html. Yes you need a VFD for a 3 phase motor unless you have 3 phase electricity already. The motor I used is a 1.5HP Leeson motor.

Actually you still need a VFD whether you have 3 phase or not. VFD's have single or 3 phase inputs (different models of course). How else do you control speed?

[bgriggs]

If you have single phase electricity and you want to use a 3 phase motor, one solution is a variable frequency drive. It converts the single phase to 3 phase and gives you the ability to change the speed of the motor by changing the frequency of the pulses. Another solution is a rotary phase converter. There are probably several other solutions. I am not an electrician... Use an electrician if you are not sure how to proceed.

[Iridium10]

Has anybody come across an interesting pocket on their saddle? Is it a defect or intentional modification for the cnc conversion?

I have the same cast pocket. Less to machine for when I add my c7 double nut ball screws. Definitely doesn't look like everyone else's solid saddle.

[KriegKuts]

I have the same cast pocket. Less to machine for when I add my c7 double nut ball screws. Definitely doesn't look like everyone else's solid saddle.

Yeah. It is interesting that its there but it has not affected anything so far, and did speed up the hogging process a bit.

[Iridium10]

I just got my C7 ballscrews from Chai, the shafts were turned down to Hoss specifications, however the 7000B Bearings from VXB do not slide on. Seems like the Angular contact bearings inner race is 9.98mm and the C7 ball screws are at 10mm. Is this supposed to be a press fit?

[hoss2006]

I just got my C7 ballscrews from Chai, the shafts were turned down to Hoss specifications, however the 7000B Bearings from VXB do not slide on. Seems like the Angular contact bearings inner race is 9.98mm and the C7 ball screws are at 10mm. Is this supposed to be a press fit?

needs to be a slip fit, sand the ballscrew shaft ever so lightly to get the bearings to slip on.
Hoss

[Iridium10]

Thanks for the reply Hoss! Your build plans have been a big help.


Some more questions... Should the bearing for the Y axis extension block be a slip fit too? My stock G0704 x-axis endplates are like .030 bigger than the bearing, I guess I need to shim them until I machine the new phase 3 endplate? Should the X-axis end-cap bearing be a slip-fit too? Also the bolts (M6x 60mm) you specified in the phase 2 hardware list for the "G0704 Y axis spacer for Y axis extension front mount" are too short. Is there somewhere in the download that has the sizes?

Thanks again Hoss!

[hoss2006]

Thanks for the reply Hoss! Your build plans have been a big help.


Some more questions... Should the bearing for the Y axis extension block be a slip fit too? My stock G0704 x-axis endplates are like .030 bigger than the bearing, I guess I need to shim them until I machine the new phase 3 endplate? Should the X-axis end-cap bearing be a slip-fit too? Also the bolts (M6x 60mm) you specified in the phase 2 hardware list for the "G0704 Y axis spacer for Y axis extension front mount" are too short. Is there somewhere in the download that has the sizes?

Thanks again Hoss!

All the bearings should be a slip fit on the shafts.
A shim will help with the stock X endcap, the phase 3 is a closer tolerance.
The m6x60 bolts are in the list for the standard conversion, the spacer for the extension is an inch thicker than standard so the bolts would need to be an inch or 25mm longer.
Hoss

[CFLBob]

While I'm waiting on some wire I ordered, I'm modeling my CNC Controller box. I have a question about the KL-6050 motor controllers. How much space should there be between the controllers and other things? I'm figuring an inch, but that's pulled from the air. I'd like to leave room in the box for a fourth controller in case I add a fourth axis, and a full inch from the heat sink won't work.

How much room should I leave? I can get everything to fit with 3/4" inch between heat sink and the other side of the next controller. It looks like this sketch:
Attachment 333658
I have a box with a fan that will blow air inside, although I'm not sure how well all the controllers will be cooled.

[hoss2006]

3/4 would be fine, they don't run very hot but exhaust the air out of the box not in.
Hoss

[CFLBob]

Thanks!

You would not believe the number of debates I've heard over the years about whether a fan should suck or blow.

I was planning on blowing through the box. Lots of vent holes on both front and back panels.

[Al_The_Man]

You would not believe the number of debates I've heard over the years about whether a fan should suck or blow.

Generally the decision is based on the environment the enclosure is exposed to, in a contaminated area such as wood, fiber or metallic dust, positive pressure is used, IOW the fan and filter brings filtered air into the enclosure and pressurizes or makes the enclosure positive pressure with a dedicated exit point, for an exit fan the enclosure has negative pressure and unfiltered/contaminated air can enter in any sort of opening.
Al.

[DonKes]

Filter the inlet and blow the dust out !!!

Don

[Al_The_Man]

That works as long as the filter is the only method of entry, as it results in negative pressure.
Al.

[hoss2006]

Aren't there always debates about everything lol. I prefer to get the hot air out of the enclosure with an exhaust fan just like power supplies and computer cases do.
Hoss

Thanks!

You would not believe the number of debates I've heard over the years about whether a fan should suck or blow.

I was planning on blowing through the box. Lots of vent holes on both front and back panels.