[dfranks]

Ok, so I have been reading up on all that I can find about building a CNC Routing Table and then it dawns on me. How do you cut 1/2" or 5/8" 6061 aluminum plate into the parts needed? Nothing complicated, cuts straight cuts. Is this a Catch22 senario? You need a CNC Router to mill the aluminum parts in order to build the table? How about using a router in a jig and make a kazillion passes for each cut. I was about to begin to order raw materials to begin my build but until I can figure this out it's on hold. Any help is greatly appreciated!! :drowning:

[mxtras]

Straight cuts - I use an 80 tooth carbide blade on a power miter box saw to cut some pretty thick 6061 plate and bar. It works well and leaves a very acceptable finish.

Wear earplugs, though.

Scott

[dfranks]

Cool, I aleady have a power miterbox and the 80 carbide blade. If that works then I assume I can use the same type of blade on a table saw as well?

[jderou]

I designed mine to have as few custom parts as possible, as much t-slot/brackets as possible. For the custom parts I used the mill at work after hours or when no one was looking .

[mxtras]

If the saw has the power - I can't see why not.

I have been using my saw for about 4 years to cut aluminum - that's what I bought it to for - specifically. I plan to buy a cold saw in the future, but for now this is how I do it and the results are good. The Diablo blades seem to work the best for me, but they are around $70 for a 12", 80 tooth blade at Lowes or Home Depot. They make a blade specifically for cutting non-ferrous metals.

Spray the blade with WD-40 or something before each cut - this will help prevent the aluminum from sticking to the face of the teeth. Then you have to find the right feed - too much seems to be better than not enough. If you feed it really lightly, the teeth will clog. I feed it pretty aggressively to keep the teeth clear - I bog the saw down a little and use the load of the saw as a guide. If the blade does clog, feed it fairly aggressively into a scrap piece of aluminum to clear the teeth. If that fails, use a fine file on the face of the teeth - it won't touch the carbide, but it will remove the aluminum - just use care not to screw up the teeth - especially the corners. I have tried using wax as a lubricant, but WD seems to work just as well and is easier to mess with.

Good luck - keep us posted, and maybe take some pictures of the procedures, darn it!!

Scott

[dfranks]

I have hope once again!! I also have a metal abrasive chop saw that I probably could use for smaller parts. But the cuts that I was really concerned about were the long cuts for the gantry uprights. Any other comments or ideas will be greatly appreciated. (Guys, I've got to say that this site is awesome! User support is excellent, ideas are free flowing and I'm not getting flamed because I'm new. Life is good!) I am waiting to hear back on a quote for some steel tubing off Ebay for the base. In the mean time the garage is 90% cleaned up, I'll check the batteries in the digital camera.... "all systems are go" !!

[ger21]

Use a triple chip blade, and using a sliding cutoff table or sled on the table saw. I've cut 1/4" in one pass easily, without lubricant. For 1/2" I'd make 2 or 3 passes. Make sure the blade is sharp.

[Pete England]

A band saw would be ok ,I cut aluminium a lot and as most others a spray of WD40 on the blade works a treat.If a band saw is not available you could also use a Jig saw.

[2muchstuff]

Don't use an abrasive cut off wheel to cut aluminum. The aluminun will clog the wheel and make it useless. I have seen the build up develop in an uneven pattern and throw the wheel out of balance.

[H500]

A metal cutting bandsaw is the most pleasant way. It's relatively quite and don't throw dust in the air.

[dfranks]

2muchstuff - thanks for the tip on the abrasive cut off wheel. I'll be sure not to use that. I'll probably just stick with my table saw, 80T carbide blade and WD30. A couple of people have mentioned using a metal bandsaw. And it would give me a reason to buy another tool ...hhmmmm.... it might even look pretty good standing in my garage

[mxtras]

I'll probably just stick with my table saw, 80T carbide blade and WD30. A couple of people have mentioned using a metal bandsaw. And it would give me a reason to buy another tool ...hhmmmm.... it might even look pretty good standing in my garage

Yeah - no go on the abrasive blade!! (I guess that's a dead horse, huh? - sorry)

Hook me up with the info on the WD-30. I use WD-40, but it's too heavy for some stuff... ..just kidding, dfranks!

Personally - I would stick to the table saw and save your $$ for now - the bandsaw would be good to have, but for what you have described the table saw is going to give you more than adequate results - far superior to the band saw - and quicker. A band saw is a future requirement - absolutely.

As far as thicknesses of cut - like I eluded to yesterday, I am using a 12", direct drive, DeWalt compound miter box with an 80 tooth Diablo blade made for cutting alum and in the recent past I made a toolpost grinder (kind of) out of a chunk of 6"X4"x3" in one 'chop' per side. The surface finish appeared Blanchard ground when I completed the clean-up cuts and the part was square and parallel within .007". It got a little warm, but it was still very handle-able.

This thread is in desperate need of pictures!!!

Enjoy - and you are hereby required to keep us posted on the results.

Scott

[dfranks]

Quote:
Originally posted by mxtras
Hook me up with the info on the WD-30. I use WD-40, but it's too heavy for some stuff... ..just kidding, dfranks
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I could only afford WD30. You guys always braggin' about having the good stuff Ok, you got me there...hahaha... (I'm still on my 1st cup of coffee)

Within .007"... pretty impressive!! OK.. table saw it is. Still looking for a good source for aluminum plate (good meaning cheap.. been searching Ebay). I'll see if I can get some pics, hopefully none of those priceless photos. You know the ones like... 6061 Aluminum plate $4/lbs... 12" 80t carbide tip blade $80.... Trip to emergency room to reattach 2 fingers - Priceless!!

[mxtras]

Quote:... 6061 Aluminum plate $4/lbs... 12" 80t carbide tip blade $80.... Trip to emergency room to reattach 2 fingers - Priceless!!

LOL - please - no! ......but if so, we need photos of the scene, please.

Not that it will keep you from removing digits but wearing gloves will keep the chips from imbedding themselves into your hands and wrists making you look like a galactic porcupine. They will also help you from having to do a panic release if you generate too much heat in the plate....you likely know this, but it was worthy of mention.

Check a local scrap yard for the aluminum. Or you may go to a machine shop and ask if they have something they want to sell - you have heard the stories about how a shop ordered a bunch of stuff for a job, then the job was canceled or the material spec was changed...it might be your day. Their 'scrap' pieces might be large enough for you. Talk to the shop manager if possible and ask him to keep you in mind for certain materials - not that he WILL call you, but at least it may give you a future hook-up.

On the finish pass - basically a spring cut - the chips were super thin. They were almost floating around in the shop like confetti, carried around landing everywhere. The hardest thing to avoid is blade flex which is minimal if at all with a blade in good condition. On the table saw you may have better results than a chop saw, though.

Scott

[SCOJEN]

DO NOT WEAR GLOVES PERIOD (chair) THAT IS THE QUICKEST WAY TO THE HOSPITAL :nono: THEY GET HUNG UP AND WILL TAKE YOUR HANDS STRAIGHT INTO THE SAW. ASK ANY METAL WORKING PRO GLOVES ARE A BAD ITEM AROUND POWER TOOLS

YES IT IS MEANT TO BE IN CAPS

SCOTT

[WP1]

Absolutely no gloves when using saws, drills, etc.

There was an episode of American Chopper that demonstrated the reason quite nicely when one of the guys got wrapped up in the drill press. Blood splattered everywhere, chunks of finger left on the bit, shredded glove, trip to the emergency room for stitches...

When welding however, please use a helmet, golves and appropriate long sleeve clothing, unlike what is demonstrated on so many of the programs like AC.

Pete C.

[CNCRob]

Just wondering how many amp motors did your table saws have that you used to cut the aluminum?

[LeeWay]

15 amp universal motor. Ryobi BT3100. Dos a fine job on 1/2" and 3/4" plate. You have to use a lubrication method though. I used wax, but think I will opt for WD40 in the future. Sounds easier to apply.

[dfranks]

Just wondering how many amp motors did your table saws have that you used to cut the aluminum?

My table saw is a little light weight, 10amp 1.5hp, but I will make several passes. I think with a good blade and patietence I'll be ok. It should be interesting as I have never worked with aluminum plate before.

The good news!! I ordered my aluminum stock off Ebay last night. So I have commited to building one of these ultra cool machines :banana: I should have enough to build most of the gantry. My intension is to document as much of my build as I can with pics and text. This is for myself as well as sharing with others.
Lots more to purchase but I am in search of inexpensive square steel tubing for my base. By the way I am modeling my table after Beezer's plans and pics. I will probably have to look locally because of shipping costs. I found some on Ebay that was reasonably priced (2.50/ft 2.5" square) but shipping racked the price upwards of $300. I may be wrong but I'm looking to build the base for about 1/2 of that cost.
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Here's to CNCZone, where everyone is so helpful :cheers:

[Harlow]

Get a Morse Metal Devil. I've been using one for a while on a 3hp 10" table saw. Cuts 1" Al in one pass easy. I would say about like cutting Poplar which is a stable, soft hardwood. Only problem is heat buildup. I would guess I have run close to a 1,000 linear feet through it and it still cuts great. I think it cost about $80.00. I also use a DeWalt 12" chop saw with just a regular carbide blade. I can't remember where I bought it but I remember it was difficult at the time to find a 10" instaed of 7" or 9".

http://www.metaldevil.com/