[SHMUEL]

First of all hello to all comunity members and great wishes my name is Shmuel and i jeweler and i just bay new mill for my shop its taig 3000 dsls with lin engineering motors 4 axis first off all all the axis work find for correct 3 of them but z axis do some problem i always have limit switches estop i dont have this hardware upgrades sow i understand its somthing in mach3 i try to off the z axis limits in input but so z axis not jog i realy stuck and dont know what to do please help guys with you litle help i am sure we can do it i just upload my xml if you can look i need to work in mm thanks for you help guys

[Jeff-Birt]

I have not looked at your xml, but wonder what changes you have made from the one Taig provides on the CD? If you find the provided XML does not work then you likely have a mechanical adjustment issue (mechanical binding of the axis)

[SHMUEL]

its xml from the cd and i dont change enything i put this file and its just not work correct just hopes guys if you can check this and tell me if some problem there or i need look somthing else and if you can say me what enother problem can be i think if it imposible for check maybe change pines ?only for check the only change i make was change to g21 for mm works and in settings change to mm from inches thats all

[lsces]

Shmuel
The DSLS3000 is closed loop control of the stepper motors ... The 'limit switches' are the error signals from each of the channels so you DO NOT switch them off. What is happening is that the Z axis is 'sticking' and so the driver on that channel is not able to keep up. The way the closed loop works is that it keeps driving the 'step' on the motor until the motor actually moves. This means that it has to 'save' later steps until it can actually make them. When there are more than 200 steps still to happen, then the driver for that channel issues an error, and since Mach3 does not have an 'error' input, it uses the limit input to stop the program. The PROBLEM is that at this point it is already some 200 step out of position, so you have to reset '0' some way before you can try again. Since all of the spare inputs on the parallel port are taken up with the error signals, adding a home switch is a little difficult.

NOW, the thing that I find is that the default settings for the speed that are set are rather optimistic, and you are probably set to 100IPM ? I supply these machines configured for metric, so that is around 2500mm/min - a speed I can't sustain with a nicely adjusted mill. Slow down the X and Y to 60IPM (1500mm/min), and the Z to 50IPM(1200mm/min) and you should have more luck. But once actually cutting, you will need to be running at a lower speed, perhaps 40IPM with engraving cutters, and lower with something like an 1/8" end mill. If you don't, then you will find that any 'sharp corner' will have a bigger radius than the cutter as one axises 'pulse buffer' will not have finished a move before the next axis starts moving. While the speed is a lot faster on the closed loop system, it is at the expense of some accuracy.

One thing that is worth doing before starting to actually use the machine is to jog the full length of travel on each axis a couple of times. This helps to loosen up the machine, and a little oil added at that time can be spread around. Then the machine will run a little more reliably and ware of the lead screws will be improved as jewellers tend to use only a small range in the middle.

[SHMUEL]

great thanks for this explanation its very helpful to me to understand you do great job thanks again

[lsces]

Micromill Maintenance will be needed at some time as well. New machines normally come in well adjusted, but for reliable fine work, you will need to do at least some minor maintenance every few months, and a major overhaul once the backlash gets too bad.

[SHMUEL]

great thanks for this tips it very imortant to me in first steps and i very like you webstore it better for me the shiping price more better from USA i use the bluffton taig mottors do you know somthing about overheating its realy hot its normall? i see hes have aytostop o verheating can i belive thas and dont worry?

[lsces]

The spindle motor? Have they supplied a 110V one and you are running it on a transformer? Israel is 50Hz 220V like the UK I think in which case the motor will not be running fast enough to cool it. The quick fix is an extra cooling fan, but they really should be supplying suitable motors for the marketplace. I use a Kress spindle myself which is 220V, and I don't take then mills from the States with motors so I can supply suitable ones.

[SHMUEL]

yse its 110v and i use tranformer witch fun i need to look and i need replace this one i have or just do somthing up the spindle motor

[lsces]

The quick fix is just to add an extra cooling fan to the motor. Steve's modification is probably a bit over the top but you should get the idea. I presume that your local temperature is quite high as well which does not help The motor will normally run OK hot, but keeping it a bit cooler will extend it's life.

[SHMUEL]

its what i think to do i look now for good fan and imagination i have sow hope be good