[jderou]

I need to find a good (inexpensive) solution for cutting up to 1 x 4 cold rolled steel. I have an abrasive saw but that was quite disappointing, takes forever and part is hot when done. I'm thinking about milwaukee's dry cut saw model 6190-20.

http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...entProd=281131

Has anyone ever used this saw? I don't want to pay $500 and then be disappointed.
I don't want to have to mill the ends of the part, so a clean cut (not bandsaw) is desirable.

[Konrad]

If you can get a hold of a old hack saw, it will cut dry, I still have one sitting around, [my first one] and I was very pleased how she chopped thru almost anything.
Konrad

[Hobbiest]

use a new blade though...and long strokes. Don't forget too, that the backstroke is just to return the saw to the beginning, and not for cutting...saves energy that way

[sendkeys]

Ewww hand saw? i can't see doing that anymore :P

what about a metal bandsaw?

[jderou]

I need to make close to 100 cuts through 1 x4, 1.5 x 1.5, .25 x 6, all CRS. I think my arm would fall off if I tried to do it by hand. The reason I am shying away from a bandsaw is because it would take a pretty large one to cut through this reasonably fast, and I am just not ready to buy another large piece of equipment (not enough room in the garage). I did end up ordering Dewalt's version of the cold saw, we'll see how well it works. I've heard mixed reviews, some love it, others hate it. Some complain that the blade doesn't last, others say its great. I would think it is just like an end mill, use it right and it will last a long time, use it wrong and it can last 2 seconds. I wonder if it would be possible to rig up a coolant system for this saw?

[DareBee]

I believe Konrad was talking about a power hacksaw. They look kinda like a vertical bandsaw, and if you can find 1 it will be cheap.
Those dry cut saws work very well. but cutting a lot of solids can be very hard on them (probably reduce life expectancy by 50%).
I suggest getting a used horizantal bandsaw.

[Konrad]

DareBee,
Yes you're right, I meant power hack saw.

jderou,
I figured you might be cutting under 30 pieces.....100 is a different story, I would just get it cut!
When I replaced my old power hacksaw, I got a cold saw, it works nice but you need to run it with allot of coolant!
Konrad

[Mcgyver]

Konrad, thats a good point, the service centre will already have a big honking band saw - find out what the up charge is for them cutting it, its usually not that bad. even if you have the saw already from a time & blade point of view, might be cheaper to have them cut

[mxtras]

Mcgyver has a good point. The material supply house will likely only charge $1.25 or so per cut and they could do it very rapidly - even if you didn't get the material from them. A local machine shop might want a bit more, but would be happy to help, I am sure.

This sounds like one of those things you just pay to have done for you instead of wasting the energy to DIY - especially if you do not have the right equipment.

Scott

[ViperTX]

You don't mention how accurate you want the cuts. 100 cuts most metal suppliers will do, but it won't be a minimum charge. They don't mind making a couple of cuts at minimum charge when you buy the material from them.

Is this tubing? Anyway, I would look at purchasing a metal bandsaw....what you'll pay for someone cutting the stuff for you will more then offset the cost of the bandsaw...when you're in the shop....start your cuts while you're doing something else.

If this a project that someone else is paying for then you need to pass on that charge to them....just like anyone wants to pass the charge to you.

[jderou]

This is for work that I have already bid. Tolerance on most parts is +/- 1/32 so not real critical, I don't want to have to face 100+ parts though so bandsaw will be the last resort (or next resort anyway). My Dewalt Multi-cutter (cold saw) will be arriving tommorow so we'll see how it does. I just wonder if I should attempt to set up a flood coolant for cutting because I've heard the blades can die pretty quick. I'll see how this weekend goes. If it doesn't go well, I'll probably either bring the stuff to work and saw it here (hate to because I don't think its right to use their equipment) or sub it out to someone else.
I will update after this weekend.

[jderou]

FYI, I have my saw, and have made 50+ cuts with it through 1x4 1x1.5 and 1.5x1.5 CR. It has its ups and downs. On the plus side it is a nice clean cut with no burrs, and for this job I don't have to face the parts. It takes about 15 seconds or less to cut through the 1.5x1.5 as opposed to like a minute with the abrasive saw. The flatness of the cut isn't that great though, possibly due to the thin blade. I could probably get a straighter cut but at 1300 rpm I feel the need to pull on the handle fairly hard to try and keep the carbide cool. On more critical apps I would have to face the parts. The base of the machine sucks, stamped steel, adjustable fence (which flexes when you clamp the part). Couldn't get a perfectly square cut to save your life. Also it is just about impossible to mount a stop on the fence or anywhere else when you have alot of the same length parts. I had to scribe a line on every part. I wish they had just put a chop saw style base on it. So far the blade is still going, I'd be surprised if it didn't need sharpening by the end of this job though (~30 more parts to cut).

Overall I think the saw was a pretty good buy. When compared to a real cold saw, $350 is really cheap. It has its flaws, but I think they can be worked on. I plan on making a new base, something more solid with a beefier (and square) fence. I also am going to work with our blade supplier at work to find out if they can make a better blade.
Go here to find manufacturer product info on this saw:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...?productID=159

[mxtras]

I have a very similar Ryobi 14" version. I like the saw, but the clamping (vise) stinks.

It handles straight cuts ok but 45s are an absolute pain. Just my thoughts, no real valuable input here. It's faster than a hacksaw, I suppose.

Scott

[jderou]

Yeah it's kind of a shame, it seems like they did a really nice job on the beefy upper part of the saw, then gave up on the base.

[mxtras]

"seems like they did a really nice job on the beefy upper part of the saw, then gave up on the base"

- - Especially on that DeWalt - I like the looks of the pivot and all - it looks even stronger than the Ryobi, but the clamp looks like they got it from the Dollar Tree!! Sad. Same with the Ryobi.

Scott

[DareBee]

These saws are suberb for tubing and aluminum but are a little tough on decent sized solids. Forget about 45s unless you have no choice. My Jepson has the same clamping woes.

[mxtras]

So - how do you handle 45s on your saw?

I have given up. I tried extending the back fence and then using a C-clamp instead of the table clamp - pain in the buttocks. Garbage clamp on these saws, for sure.

Scott

[jderou]

Haven't tried them yet, probably won't until I get a better setup.