[widgitmaster]

Hi Paul!
Yes, I used a 1"-12 split-nut collar. It has two 1/4" SHCS which allow me to snug it up and lock it down!
There is a 3/4" bore in the spindle! When I made this, my friend was making fishing poles and needed a bore through the spindle! So I made tow of them and kept one !

My mill is from KBC Tools, and has 26x13. Looks just like a Birmingham!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

This morning I calculated ho much I need to remove from the ends of the rails, then I used a gage pin in the end hole and scribed a line on each rail end. The mounting holes are 60mm apart, and accurately spaced. By placing the height gage's scribe on top of the pin while the rail is on end, I could measure from the pin to the cut line.
Next I placed my abrasive cut-off wheel in the surface grinder, and mounted my little vise on the grinder's magnetic table. With the pin in the end hole, I could place the rail in the vise so the pin was against the side of the vise. This created a perfect stop, so each rail would get cut in the same place!

After cutting them, I used my large belt sander to clean up the burn on the ends. Then I used my small 1" belt sander to debur the edges on the ends, so the seals on the bearings don't get damaged when inserting the rail ends.
Two more parts finished!

[widgitmaster]

Next I drilled and bored the holes in the front & rear plates, to hold the wire conduit tube. Then I cut the tube to length, so each end would be .250" in a counter bore. Then I used a 1/8" corner rounding end mill in my boring head to cut a nice radius on the entrance side of each plate, this will protect the wires as they are pulled through the hole.

Next I turned the two stiffener rails to length in the lathe, and tapped each end to fit a 1/4-20 UNC.

Lastly, I bored the hole for the rear bearing, and pressed the bearing in the rear plate.

That's three more parts finished!
There are several threaded holes to go in the front & rear plate, another day's work!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

This evening I turned one end of the lead screw, and added some legs with wheels! That way I don't have to bend over to work on it!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

For the last few days I've been finishing all the holes in the front & rear plates that could be done while the soft-jaws were on the vises!

So this morning I removed the soft-jaws, and put on the hardened jaws. Again I checked the tram of the two vises, be indicating the back jaws.

Next I placed one of the plates in the vises, so that I could drill & tap the edge holes which hold on the top t-slot plate. Because the plates have the dowel pins installed, I used a couple pair of 1-2-3 blocks to hold the plates while drilling, countersinking & tapping!

The two plates are now finished

[widgitmaster]

After checking all the assembled parts, I was not pleased with the location of the linear rails! They were not sitting parallel to the rail supports. All though they were parallel to each other, they were tracking .0025" sideways! This would make all the parts produced on this router a parallelogram :tired:

So I removed all the vises, checked the tram on the mill's head, and placed the rail support on the mill table. Then I dialed in the back surface, and strapped the part to the table. Next I put the spindle in the center of the slot and set the DRO to zero. The slot was parallel, the depth was not!

With the same end mill, I made a couple light passes removing the least amount of material. Then I repeated the process on the other part.

Now the linear slides are within .0003" parallel to the surface plate, and track square within .0004". The trucks are parallel to each other within .0002" This is 1000x better than the original base I made years ago.

Next I will be making the blocks which attach directly to the linear trucks. The center slide assembly will be made from four parts, the two outer blocks, and the middle blocks which connects to the ball nut!

[widgitmaster]

When I tried to turn the ends on the Ball Screw, I noticed the material was unusually soft. So I checked the entire length with a small file, and was shocked to find the entire screw was not heat treated!

So I contacted the seller via email explaining the situation, he agreed to have me return it for a replacement!

The Ball screw will have to be done later!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

A few months ago I found a website that sells a pneumatic tool changer attachment for the KRESS 800FME spindle motors! The company, SOROTEC, would NOT ship anything to the USA? So I asked around and found that the company Marchant Dice would indeed purchase it from the German company and Ship it to me in the USA! In fact, they even offered to let me make three payments!
The best news is they shipped the tool changer and three tool holders immediately after the first payment! WOW! Thanks Kevin!

Last evening I went shopping in McMaster-Carr, and purchased 25 feet of 4mm plastic tubing, and an assortment of fittings. Then I found a solenoid valve at Granger, all I need now is to run an air line to the back of my machine!
Then I found the ER11 spring collet's on eBay, and bought three 1/4" & three 1/8". That should get me going!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

Some of the stuff I've ordered for the Kress has arrived!
As impatient as I am, I quickly cut some small pieces of tubing and grabbed a couple fittings. In order to get an air supply with a switch, I screwed one of the fittings into the end of a blow-gun where the nozzle goes!
Unfortunately the users manual is written in German, and I have no idea what pressure or CFM the tool changer requires! Nor do I know what the two ports represent!

With a little experimenting, I have found that one port moves the internal piston when pressure is applied, and the other port simply blows dirt away from the tool holder. So I can functionally change tools by applying pressure to both ports simultaneously. Now I can see how air on the piston side only makes installing the next tool easier, as the air from the 2nd port pushes the tool holder out slightly.

This may require two switches, one for release and one for insert.
The pneumatic switch on order from Granger has not arrived yet, and I had chosen a simple push button type valve instead of an electric solenoid valve! That way I don't need to buy a transformer and switches to accomplish the same task at a higher cost!

Here is a quick VIDEO of the tool change with pressure applied to both ports.

Widgit

[CarveOne]

That's pretty slick Widgit. Sure beats using wrenches.

It wouldn't do for me to have something like that though. I'm the kind of guy who would jack up the pressure enough to shoot collets at bottles across the workshop. :cheers:

CarveOne

[ger21]

On the large spindles with ATC's that I've used, there's a constant flow of air during the tool change to keep any contaminants from getting on the taper.

Most likely, there are springs that hold the tool holder in place, and the air releases it.

So typically, during a toolchange, you'd supply air constantly to the port that keeps it clean. For the other port, you's supply air to release the tool, and keep supplying it until the tool holder is removed. Then stop it, until you're ready to insert the next tool. At that point you'd shut off the air to both ports.

However, if you intend on just using it manually, you should be able to just supply air to both simultaneously.

And btw, it's probably not a good idea to keep shooting the toolholder out like that.

[widgitmaster]

This morning I decided to start on the two end blocks which attach to the Y-Axis linear slides. With two blocks of aluminum, I squared them on all six sides with the big face mill. Then I scribed some lines and decided to band saw off some of the excess material. After a lot of pushing and wax, the blocks are ready to be milled to size!

Total time 3 hr.

[widgitmaster]

Next I used the big face mill to cut the big step on each block, bringing the depth to print. Then I milled the corner using a 1/2" end mill.

Next I flipped the part over and milled the remaining steps with the same end mill. All thats left is to drill, tap & ream some holes!

Then I have to mill the connecting plate which gets pinned to these two slide blocks!

[widgitmaster]

This morning I drilled and tapped some holes on the outside of the two blocks, and drilled & c-bored the four holed needed to mount the blocks to the linear slides. The slides use M6 screws, so I found a reground end mill about .015" bigger than the M6 cap screw's head. Then I used it to c-bore the hole.
After a trip to ACE hardware for a handful of M6 x20mm SHCS, the parts now attach securely.

The other six holes were #10-24, and the two dowel pin holes were drilled .01" small. The dowel pin holes will be reamed upon assembly, as I need to align everything first. Otherwise there will be an accumulation of error from so may assembled parts!

There are two 1/4"-20 threaded holes and two reamed hoe to be drilled on the top of the parts for attaching the connecting plate. That will be done tomorrow, I hope!

[widgitmaster]

Looking for THK grease fittings!

For some strange reason, THK uses a custom thread for the grease fittings! Normal fittings are M6x1, theirs is M6x1.5

Does anyone have any extras lying around, my router needs two!

Widgit

[CarveOne]

Looking for THK grease fittings!

For some strange reason, THK uses a custom thread for the grease fittings! Normal fittings are M6x1, theirs is M6x1.5

Does anyone have any extras lying around, my router needs two!

Widgit

Wish I cold help Wigit, but I don't have any of any size. That's a lot of machining work you're doing. Are you dealing with Arthur Ritis when he bothers you? He gets in my way sometimes too.

CarveOne

[widgitmaster]

Hi Carv'e,
I have good days and bad, today was a good day!

I started this morning by finishing the holes in the top of the end blocks, they went quick as there were only four tapped holes!

[widgitmaster]

Next part is the middle block which has the bore for the ball nut. First I squared it on all six sides, then I milled a 45° x 1/2" bevel on two edges.

Next I drilled and tapped the four mounting holes, and drilled a pilot hole for the dowel pins. The dowel pin holes will be set upon assembly.

[widgitmaster]

The only part left for the ball nut bridge assembly is the top connecting plate. Because its long, I need to setup the mill with two vises. But I have other long parts to make for the front dashboard! So I will make the two outer end blocks which will support the two dashboard panels.

First I squared them on all surfaces, then I milled the notch in one corner of each block. Next I placed them on the surface plate and scribed a 45° line. Then I band sawed the corner off, and clamped the parts together. With a 45° triangle under the parts, the blocks are now ready for milling. Then I moved the clamps, and used my small face mill to cut the surface.

Next I set the DRO to zero in the center of the two blocks, and used a 1/2" 2FL end mill to cut a 1/4" deep slot down the center. this will leave a 1/8" wall on the outsides.

Next I rotated the blocks 90°, and milled another slot on the short side.


The dashboard panels will have a Start, Stop, Pause, E-Stop, Home, and eight jog buttons. Along with a 2" dia air pressure gage & air switch for the Kress tool changer.

Because of the details on the front panels, I plan on making one set from MIC-6 aluminum, and one set from MDF. This way I can make changes!

Enough for today!

[widgitmaster]

Got a late start in the shop today, but I did get allot done!
First I drilled & c-bored the holes in the dashboard end plates, then I band sawed one of the front panels. The MIC-6 plate I ordered for the front panels was bent, so I could only get one piece out of it. The lower front plate. So I made two blanks out of MDF.
The front dashboard will be done at a later date.