[widgitmaster]

With the dashboard on hold, I removed the vise from the mill so I could tram the head. Then I setup the mill with two vises and my long soft jaws.

Next I milled the bridge plate to .500" thickness, then I milled it to length. It was nice to see my numbers were good, as the bridge fit nicely between the two end blocks

Tomorrow I will drill & tap all the holes, and assemble the cross bridge on the surface plate.

[widgitmaster]

This morning I drilled, c-bored, & reamed all the holes in the bridge assembly! Now I can start on the bore for the ball nut!

[widgitmaster]

Today I made the little thrust end bearing block, was in a rush and didn't take in process pictures!
The screw has a #10-32 UNF thread in one end, and the OD is turned to .3125" dia. There are two sealed bearing in the thrust block so when the ball screw is inserted into the block, the end of the screw is flush with the outer bearing. Then a SS washer with a #10 SHCS which has a nylon patch on the threads will be adjusted to allow the screw to spin without end play. I have used this method on many machines, and have had no problems!

Next I need to bore out the block for the ball-nut. A tomorrow project!

[widgitmaster]

This evening I cleaned up the back room with all thew saw dust, and moved everything away from the router.
Then I started dismantling the router in preparation for the new improved components! The unit comes apart easily, as the entire wire-track assembly can be removed without disconnecting any of the wires within!

This router has three 282 oz/in NEMA-23 steppers, anti-backlash ball-nuts, and IKO LWL12-B linear slides. The new lower Y-axis will have 25mm linear slides, making it stronger to support the weight of the X & Z axis components.

The old y-axis frame which consists of one ball-screw & nut, two linear slides, two limit switches, and an extension grease tube for the ball-nut is now FOR SALE! This unit has 15.5" travel.

Please contact me via PM for price & shipping.

[widgitmaster]

Today I moved all the new parts from the garage to the back room, then I started assembling the router from the bottom up! I'm pleased with the new y-axis slide, and glad that all my numbers were good! As all the parts fit like they belong there!
The x-axis side plates need to be pinned to the new slide assembly, and there are plenty of little details which need to be done!

With the t-slot plate in place, I could see how it fit with the new dashboard end plates. It looked so good, I had to sit back and stare at it while I finished my mug of coffee

While browsing through McMaster-Carr, I noticed they sold little plastic plugs to cover the screw holes in the linear rails, so I had ordered enough for the y-axis rails. They don't sell the smaller ones for the X & Z axis rails

Lastly I mounted the y-axis limit switches, so the bottom rail supports are both 100% finished! I need to get some little rubber grommets so I can drill a hole in the wire conduit for each of the limit switches. The grommets will protect the wires for sharp edges in the tube.

[Jason3]

Very nice!

What size are the holes in the X and Z axis rails? I have a some THK C4 caps here that you are welcome to if they'll fit - they're 7.5 mm diameter.

Did you locate some grease fittings for the Y axis bearings yet? There's quite a few THK ones lying around here and I'm sure we can spare a couple of them also. Only thing is, I could have sworn they were an M6x1 thread?

Kind regards,

Jason

[widgitmaster]

Hi Jason,
The holes in the IKO rails is 6.62mm and there are 30x of them!
No I have not found the grease fittings, but I did fine two 45 deg. fittings with M6x1.5 threads.
Thanks!
Eric

[widgitmaster]

Today I bored the hole in the center block for the ball nut. While the slow boring process was in the mill, I made the limit switch tripper pin & the grease tube extension in the lathe!

Then I drilled two holes in the wire conduit for the grommets.

After the primary bore in the center block was done, I returned to the back room to assemble and check everything!

The center block bore will get a large counter bore on both sides, but that will be done on the rotary table later. So I finished up the limit switches.
With the holes in the conduit deburred, I installed the little rubber grommets. Then I cut two pieces of 22-AWG 2-conductor shielded cable, and feed them through the grommet holes. Next I crimped spade terminals on the ends for the wires, leaving just enough cable to reach the switches.

Next I had to bend the lever on the limit switches slightly to get as much travel out of the assembly as possible! The limit switches are finished!

The grease tube has an M6x1 thread on one end, which will screw into the side of the ball nut. The other end will get a custom made hex nut with an M6x1 female thread. This will be brazed on the end of the tube, and will have a grease fitting screwed into it. This makes for easy lube of the ball nut!

The hole for the grease tube was drilled in the outer end block, but not the center block, as the counter bores need to be finished first!

[widgitmaster]

Today I finished all the aluminum parts except for the counter bores in the bridge assembly. Then I started cleaning parts and assembling the X & Z axis. Everything went together without problems.

[widgitmaster]

Next I re attached the upper portion of the wire track assembly, the bottom section needs to be modified in order to add the LPT2 25-pin DB25 socket, along with the fittings for the pneumatic tool change system.

All the end blocks for the wire track were made in two halves, which allows easy access to all wires! The lower of the two bottom blocks will need a rectangular pocket for the DB25 socket, and two 1/8" NPT pipe threads for the pneumatic lines. The plastic block is thick enough that I can thread the holes from each end, allowing me to put a fitting on the inside and outside of the block!

The wiring is a bit tricky, but I plan on using three 4 conductor shielded cables, and one 2 conductor shielded cable.
I'm glad I took the time to tag and mark the old cables, as its much easier to back trace the pins in the big circular connectors!

[widgitmaster]

Last night I rewired the pins in the large 36-pin circular connector, so the 2nd E-Stop switch works, and the new Y-Axis limit switches work!

Little more progress this morning!
First I drilled & tapped two holes in the bottom block for 1/8" NPT, these needed to be tapped on both sides of the bulkhead. This way, the air lines inside are always connected and self-contained!

Next I setup the mill to cut a pocket for the DB25 connector to nest. With the DRO set to XY-zero in the center of the pocket, I first drilled & tapped the two small holes for #4-40 UNF. The little standoffs screw in to these holes!

Next I deburred the plastic, and washed the oil off. Then I brought it into the back room and ran a pressure test at 100 PSI .... it passed!

Now I need to get some small shrink tubing and a new soldering iron, as mine is too hot for working on small plastic connectors! I have ordered a set of wire-markers so that I can identify all the wires going into the DB25.

Tomorrow I'll setup the rotary table and finish the ballnut bridge assembly!

[CarveOne]

Hi widgit,

I was wondering if this upgraded machine is for a customer or for yourself to use. After making a few projects these things take on a whole different priority in life don't they? You're really zipping through this one.

All the best,
CarveOne

[widgitmaster]

Hi Carv'e!
Yea, I have plans of using it a while to field test it, then its up for sale!
Its a fun project, and it fell together rather easily too!

I can't wait to make on of them AZTEC calendars
Widgit

[widgitmaster]

Today I setup the rotary table on the mill, clamped the bridge assembly so the center bore was in the center of the table. Then I used a 5/8" 2-flute end mill to cut the deep pocket for the ballnut flange. After the pocket was finished, I dialed in the bridge assembly so the log plate was parallel to the mill's table. Then I locked the ro-tab so it would not turn, and drilled the four mounting holes and tapped them #10-24 UNC.

Next I flipped the bridge assembly on the ro-tab, and milled the 2nd pocket on the reverse side! After deburring the parts, I took the center block off the bridge plate, and drilled the hole for the grease tube.

Another section finished!

[widgitmaster]

Next I brought the finished parts to the back room, where I proceeded to add them to the final assembly. The parts fit perfectly; however, when I powered up the router it was very noisy! So I checked everything several times, then I found a bad bearing in the new y-axis rear plate. This was a real pain, as I had to dismantle the entire back section of the router. Including the wires in the main block!

After pressing out the bearing and installing a new one, I checked all the others and found one more in the front thrust block that was ticking! So much for Chinese eBay bearings

Well at last its up and running, nice and quiet too! As you can see and hear in the videos, the router can now move at 400 IPM without any problems!:cheers:

VIDEO1 (3.8 mb)
VIDEO2 (10.4 mb) noisy bearings!
VIDEO3 (2.3 mb)
VIDEO4 (8.4 mb) Finished replacing bearings!

The plates for the front dashboard are next!

[CarveOne]

Another piece of Widgitmaster CNC jewelry on display. Another very nice one too.

In celebration, I hereby decree that you can take Thursday off.

CarveOne

[Fireman11]

The whole day! That's no way to run a country, is this France?

Great work, nice documentation as always. Everyone have a great holiday.

[widgitmaster]

Thanks guys!
Hope you all have a relaxing day around a well cooked turkey!
Widgit

[R L Harris]

Thanks guys!
Hope you all have a relaxing day around a well cooked turkey!
Widgit

Another Nice Widgitmaster Rolex!

[widgitmaster]

Thanks!

Today I worked on the DB25 wiring, as all the stuff I ordered arrived all at once!

My intentions were to mark the wires using the yellow tags, and short pieces of shrink tubing to cover the sloppy solder job But to my surprise, the yellow markers disintegrated when the heat gun toasted them!

So I removed the melted plastic, and finished the shrink tubing!

Enough for one day, I'm in holiday mode now :wee:
Widgit