[widgitmaster]

I've been using this router for over two months now, and I have noticed a weakness or design flaw in the lower y-axis slides! I had made the entire router using IKO LWL12B linear rails, and its obvious now that 12mm is not strong enough for the X & Z-axis weight!

My solution is to remake the lower section and use THK HSR25CR linear slides. These 25mm slides are designed to take force in all directions, and have a nice grease fitting to lubricate them!

[widgitmaster]

After spending a few days in CAD, I came up with a simple solution. Then I placed an order for materials, and choose a 6"x6" aluminum angle with 3/4" wall thickness. This is much more economical than hogging out a large rectangular block of 6061!
The front & rear plates will be made from ALCAST-5, which is the Canadian equivalent of MIC-6 jig plate! The Canadian plate is much nicer material to work with, as it is not a chalky or powdery as MIC-6! It works much like 6061!

[widgitmaster]

Next I made a simple layout of the leg lengths on the aluminum angle, by adding .300" to each dimension. Then I pushed them through the vertical band saw, using lots of wax to keep it cutting smoothly.

With all the excess material removed, I now need to setup the mill for facing the outer surfaces to get an accurate 90 deg. corner!

By using two little angle plates, I dialed them in so they are parallel to the table's travel. Then I mounted my BIG Chinese 5" dia carbide face mill, I have found it works better if I take 3 of 6 inserts out!

[widgitmaster]

With all the outer surfaces milled flat and 90 deg., its time to mill the length of the long leg.
So I placed the angle flat on the table, with the short leg against the cast iron angles. Using a 1/2" end mill, I milled the length to print size, then I used a large 2-flute end mill with a .1 radius on the points to mill the step on the inside surface of each part.

That's enough for one day, as my hands hurt too much to continue!
Widgit

[widgitmaster]

This morning I finished milling the short leg on both parts, and decided to mill the two plates using the current mill's setup!

That went quick, but I was unable to mill the slots on the inside of the short leg to hold the linear rails. That needs to be done in a different setup!

[widgitmaster]

Now its time for the fun stuff!
In order to mill the ends of the rail supports, I need to rotate the mill's turret and extend the ram! So I placed my 6x9x12 angle plate on the mill's table, and clamped it slightly. Then I mounted my long side plate to the angel plate, and clamped the rail support in the corner.
This gives me a rough idea of how much travel I need, and where to position the spindle.
Next I tightened all the bolts on the mill's turret and ram, and removed the cast iron angle plate. Because the table is extended and the turret is rotated, the mill's head needs to be trammed in it's new position. So I used an indicator holder in the spindle and a 1-2-3 block.
The indicator must be perpendicular to the ram, not the mill's table!

Next I repositioned the cast iron angle plate, and dialed it's face parallel to the mills table. Now I can use a 3" face mill to cut the entire end surface in one pass. So I milled one end of each part.

[widgitmaster]

With one end finished, I used my big height gage to set my little height gage while it was on top of two 4" cubes! This is the only way I can reach something 18.8007" tall with a 12" height gage!

With the scribe height set, I marked the unfinished end of both parts. There is over an inch of extra metal, so I will band saw the bulk off and finish the parts in the mill.

Thats enough for today!

[CarveOne]

Great sequence of instructional photos, as always, from the great WigitMaster!

But tell me Wigit, is that pair of pipe wrenches on the pegboard precision made and calibrated by Brown and Sharpe? Got lots of chuckles seeing those hanging there.

Edit: Oops! there's just one pipe wrench. The other one looks like bolt cutters. Even funnier.

CarveOne

[widgitmaster]

LOL!!
Thanks Carv'e!
Yea, they were my Dad's, and I must admit they don't get much use!
Widgit

[widgitmaster]

This morning I drilled, tapped & reamed all the end holes. This didn't take long, as the mill was nicely setup for milling the ends!

[widgitmaster]

With all the end work done, I can tear down the setup and put the mill back to normal position!
After tramming the head again, I cleaned off my vises and put them on the mill table. Then I looked around for the long dual vise soft jaw set, they were scattered everywhere!
With the vises floating loose on the table, I attached the long jaw to both vises. Then the two shorter ones. Next I closed the vises on a ground steel plate to align a preexisting milled step in the jaws. Then I moved the mill table to the center of travel in the long direction, and positioned both vises so the spindle was in the middle of the long jaw.
Next I loosely bolted the vises to the table, and tightened the furthest nut on the left. With a dial indicator, I trammed the back jaw within a few thousandths, and locked all the mounting screws tight!
Using a round steel bar, I tightened both vises and milled the step in the back jaw. Then the front jaws.

Now the vises are ready to hold parts!

[widgitmaster]

Before I can start working on the parts, I need to set the DRO to zero on the back jaw!
Next, I used a long 3/4" 4-flute end mill to make the slot for the linear rails. This did not take long, so I started drilling the holes for the M6 threads. After tapping them, I drilled and countersunk the three holes for mounting the router to it's table.
A good day's work, and the first two parts are finished!

[drawbar]

You will probably never know how many of us wish we could do what you do every day, and do it as well as you!

Brian

[widgitmaster]

Thanks for the kind words Brian!
Widgit

[rowbare]

What drawbar said... It's great to see you posting from the shop again.

bob

[widgitmaster]

Thanks Bob!
This was a difficult router to build, as the Arthritis in my hands and knees makes standing and working painful.
But I'm addicted, and just cant sit still!

This machine has cast acrylic wire track mounting blocks, unfortunately I did not take allot of photos during its creation

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

This morning I milled the two plates to length, and started drilling holes! All the dowel pin holes in the corners are critical, as it sets the flatness, and squareness of the whole router! So I carefully spot drilled one screw hole, drilled it small, and followed it with a reamer. After measuring it, I made correction moves on the mill. When satisfied with the location, I moved over to the dowel pin holes.
Next I put a 1/4" reamed hole accurately on location for the ball screw bearing locations. This way I can dial in the hole and enlarge it later.

So far I have all the lower mounting holes drilled c-bored & reamed, and the holes for the stiffener rails located just under the ball screw. The motor mounting holes have also been drilled & tapped to fit a NEMA23 stepper.

Because I plan on making a sloped front control panel, with several buttons and an additional e-stop, I will be putting a 1" OD aluminum conduit to connect through the front & rear plates. This tube will also have small holes with rubber grommets so I can connect the two y-axis limit switches.

I have been looking all over the place for a Green START, Red STOP, anad Yellow PAUSE buttons! Finally I found them at GRANGER.com. Also, I have several small buttons for jogging each axis. Along with a HOME button.
Now, according to my research, I have 15 OEM-TRIGGER's which will require a 2nd LPT port. Then I can assign each switch & button to a function on the MACH3 screen.

[widgitmaster]

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I had made a nice little 4th-axis for this machine!
It uses standard tapered roller bearings, a corrugated belt & pulleys, and has an 85 oz/1n NEMA23 stepper!

Widgit

[CarveOne]

Well, wonders never cease! That one's really nice Wigit.

CarveOne

[ViperTX]

Eric, great looking work!

Is the collar on your 4th axis threaded....just wondering how you are preloading the Timken bearings?

I'm at the point where my Jet JMD-18 is just too limited. Is your mill a Birmingham 10x54? I have been looking at the Enco 10x54 variable speed mills, but don't know anything about how good they are.

Thanks,
Paul