[widgitmaster]

Now that the holiday's are done, I can get back into the project!

The rear wire boxes are finished, and so is the front dashboard upgrade! The dash had to be extended about 2 inches, else the dust boot would be off the front of the table! This was easily accomplished by making two new end plates, and a filler strip for the top, then I mounted the Z-Tool setting block on the right side.

[widgitmaster]

Now I need to make a long part that allows me to attach the upper Wire-Chain to the Z-Axis slide. There was little space between the spindle body and the Z-Stepper motor, so making it out of aluminum was the best choice!

The part has a fork on the end to mate with the Wire-Chain, and a radius that matches the outer diameter of the spindle body. Then I had to drill a 5-inch deep hole 1/8 inch diameter to let the LED's wires to pass through. Then I mounted a tiny barrier strip under the fork, so the 12-VDC supply line can be attached to both LED's.

I took a nice picture from down-under, to show the two LED's ! The dust boot will need to be custom made to accommodate the LED's

[CNCMAN172]

Widget,
You put more effort into designing the fork that attaches to the Wire-Chain than most people do on their entire machine. Outstanding job, wow nothing but first class. I also really appreciate how you wire your machines and label everything very neatly. You always build amazing machines. Congratulations on another amazing build.

Russ

[widgitmaster]

The other end of the Z-Axis Wire-Chain will mount to a three piece set of blocks, this allows me to cut the wire passages in two halves, and bolt them together with really long screws!
The 1st of three has the socket for the Z-Axis stepper to plug into, along with a 4mm tubing to supply air pressure to the lift cylinders! There will be a four conductor cable exiting the bottom oh the block, which will attach to the X&Z-Axis Limit switches.

In order to see what I'm doing, I made a 48" x 36" printout of the wiring diagram, and tacked it to the wall behind the machine!

I have gone as far as I can with the materials in my garage, so this morning I placed an order with Speedy-Metals for the remaining pieces.

Now I can go enjoy the warm spell by riding my Trike!

[widgitmaster]

Thanks Russ!

[widgitmaster]

WOW!!
This post has been idle sense 2017, and I just found a folder on my laptop filled with images
that were never uploaded! The only explanation I have is the horrific motorcycle accident I
had back in 2017! So for the next few days I'll try to finish where I left off!


It looks like I was making the mounting blocks for the wire-tracks, unfortunately; some of the
in process pictures are missing!

[widgitmaster]

The track attaches to the rear electric box, loops around and needs to attach to the Y-Axis gantry side plate. The block will have the mating holes to attach to the chain, then an 1 1/4" aluminum conduit tube.

[widgitmaster]

The end of the wire chain requires a square key to keep it from flopping around, so I milled out a slot on both sides of the aluminum ears and made the keys to fit in place with a screw!

[widgitmaster]

After making the short conduit tube, I started with a large block of aluminum. This will be a curved, two part chamber for the wires, air lines, and water lines to be protected.
All the dowel pin holes and screw threads were put in the block first, along with a reamed hole for the center point of the curved pocket!
Using the rotary table, I milled out the inner cavity and the outer walls.

[widgitmaster]

With everything milled on the rotary table, its time to use the bandsaw to remove most of the excess aluminum!

[widgitmaster]

After the bandsaw, I placed the larger half in the vise to mill some surfaces flat & square.
Then I inserted long pins in the pre-drilled holes, and used them to align the part at a angle.
This allowed me to square up the section which will attach to the conduit tube.
Next I used a ball endmill to drill a hole which connects to the inner cavity.

[widgitmaster]

Now I can flip the part in the vise, and clean up the intersecting hole and the inner cavity using a ball end mill!
Being that all the wires, and hoses will be pulled through these areas, all the edges must be rounded over and smooth!

Last thing, I attached the x-axis motor socket mounting block to the upper section of the curved cavity! That required drilling a large hole then drilling & tapping four small holes.

[widgitmaster]

Next, I milled the mating fork on the end of the aluminum wire cavity
Then I milled the bore & boss for the aluminum conduit tube.
Now the lower Y-Axis wire chain is attached on both ends!

[TOTALLYRC]

Nice work Widgit!!!!!!

Mike

[widgitmaster]

Thanks Mike!
This machine is rock solid, only wish I had faster ball screws! There only 5mm per revolution
One of these days I'll get enough scratch to get a faster set!

This is what I've been doing during this national House Arrest!

These are 5/16" thick hard walnut flooring, 3" x 5"

[Bubba]

Widget,
As always, you take a bad situation and do good with it. Glad to see that you have not given in or up!
Keep it up as you inspire a lot of us.

[widgitmaster]

Thanks again Bubba

It's a rainy day in Florida, so I decided to work on a little project for my Marine friends!

Starting with a couple pieces of 1" x 8" x 16 1/4" lumber, I ripped the two boards in half from the edge! This gave me two thin pieces, about 5/16" thick!
Next, I center positioned one of the pieces on the machine table, and used six little toe-straps to clamp it securely.

[widgitmaster]

Now I can setup the tooling!

By using a master zero tool, that looks just like a tool holder without a center hole or setscrews. I can set z-zero on the table surface, and z-up to .3125" then set z-zero for offset G56, and G57. This way, if the material was a little thinner in some areas, I can adjust the Z-Zero for G56. The last tool, which does the perimeter of the plaque uses G57. This way, my spoil-board doesn't get all chopped up with every project!
Then, I set my height gauge to zero on top of the master-zero tool. Now I can very accurately measure the lengths of all the tools, and input their numbers into Mach3! This way, all I have to do is change the tool, and hit the Start button!

The Master-Zero tool & all tool holders have a long shank, which hits the bottom of the hole in the spindle! Each tool must be carefully inserted into the ER20 Collet, as a tool that bottoms out usually wobbles badly! I find hat making the collet snug, and sliding the tool holder till it hits bottom and then tightening the collet nut works best!

BTW,
The pressure gauge on the front of my machine is for the pneumatic counter-balance cylinders on the Z-Axis. It takes 50 PSI to make the Z-Axis a neutral weight, which makes the Z-Axis stepper work less!

[widgitmaster]

Total run-time for one panel which makes two plaques is 00:36:33, not including the tool changing time!
The dimensions of the finished plaques is: 7 1/4" x 4 5/8" x 1/4" Black Walnut!
With a little red, white & gold paint, these will be stunning!

My friends will really appreciate these! :cheers: