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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21

    New CNC Lathe build

    Here is a few of the photos of my new build. I started with the basic lathe kit and the only lathe modifications required is drilling and tapping of 2 holes. I'm mounting everything to a frame built with 80/20 extrusions. Attached is some pictures of the cross slide. I also had to make a new 1/4-20 LH screw to increase the length to attach to the stepper.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails back.png   bottom.png   frt.png   side.png  


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    38
    Watching with great anticipation. looks good. I have a cnc Taig mill and would like the interchanging ability of the lathe and mill accessories.
    Like the stepper being on back also outta the way. Are you going to use the powerfeed leadscrew for you z?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    980
    Did you ever finish the first one you were building back a couple of years ago when you used to have the "taigusersforum" (mentioned in your signature)?

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/taig_m...cnc_lathe.html

    Dave
    Dave->..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    Dave, I finished it, but I wasn't totally pleased with it. It had more vibration than I wanted and the backlash in the X axis needed improvement. This new design corrects those major problems as well as a few more.

    Here is a photo of the finished slantbed lathe.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails millscrew.jpg  

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    980
    Ah, I see, thanks for sharing-

    Dave
    Dave->..

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    I'm using the American Bosch 90 v DC treadmill motor and MC 60 speed controller. You can find both on ebay. The motor mounts to the taig head and is extremely solid with little vibration. Here are some pictures.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails motor.jpg   mtrmt.jpg   mtrmt1.jpg   mtrmt2.jpg  


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    980
    I'm using those as well and have had good success with it (knocking on wood). I actually covered my case as not to let chips inside, how will you protect yours?

    Dave
    Dave->..

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    Dave,
    I haven't covered the motor in the past and never had a chip problem.
    Ken

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    Here are the pictures with the lathe mounted to the 80/20 frame with the Z axis screw assembly in place. I used the Taig CNC Mill X axis complete screw assembly, stepper motor mount and nut. It makes for a very nice adjustable and compact unit that only costs around $80.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails framefrt.png   framefrt1.png   frameback1.png   frameback2.png  


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    I used my Taig CNC mill to machine all the parts required with the exception of the X screw, which I made on the Taig lathe before I started the conversion. All of the gibb and Z screw nut adjustments are assessable without removing anything. I also used several slotted screw holes to make initial setup easy to do. The 80/20 extrusion really made the Z screw mounting easy to do, it actually is beneath the bed to help with swarf buildup. I also ran the wiring using the channels in the 80/20 extrusion to "hide it" and keep a clean look.

    I'm using a Gekko G540 for the electronics.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    The basic lathe is now together! It is very solid, low vibration, extremely smooth and quiet. Overall I'm very pleased with the initial testing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails finfrt.png   finfrt2.png   finfrt1.png   finback.png  


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21

    Smile

    I finished the alignment of the gibbs and screw nuts and I'm really surprised with the backlash, The X is .0003 and the Z is .0005. I probably could improve the Z, but on a lathe .0005 is more than acceptable.

    I still need to add a tach and limit switches, but those can wait while I enjoy my new toy

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    232
    sprinter,

    Interesting project!

    Do you have a materials list, diagrams, etc. that you could share?

    Thanks.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by kanton View Post
    sprinter,

    Interesting project!

    Do you have a materials list, diagrams, etc. that you could share?

    Thanks.
    Sorry, not at this time.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    I changed the Headstock to the "593" Taig Headstock, this allows using .500 stock and use the cutoff tool to cut machined parts from the bar stock. It saves time and material when trying to chuck up and make repetitive parts. The more I use this lathe the more impressed I am.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    17
    Hello Sprinter,

    I`ve recently got myself a taig (peatol here in the UK) I want to convert it to a CNC machine but keep the manual function. I`m interested in your latest design but could I just ask a couple of questions, bearing in mind I`m learning in engineering and not only that but this is my first fully CNC attempt (only moved single axis up to now)

    1. Could you possible send any more pictures of the X-axis (main carrage) traverse mechanism. I know you have posted a few pictures but I can`t see how the lead screw is supported at the rear end of the lathe. Also how is the lead screw engaged? I like the idea of keeping this on the back as it seems to keep it out of the way. I also guess if you can disengage this, full manual control will be gained.

    2. The frame you have used it 20/40 frame you said. I`ve done a search for UK suppliers and is this the stuff: 0-132-2020 Aluminium Structural Sections Profiles Retrofit Frame | World of CNC - Marchant Dice
    I presume it is about 400mm long as the bed of the lathe is this length, what width did you use - I have noticed from your pictures that actually the frame is quite wide.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    craynerd,

    This design is strictly CNC with no manual capabilities other than using Mach3 software in the lathe manual mode. The X axis screw is not supported other than on the stepper end. I'm using all the hardware from the Taig mill just as it is used on the Taig mill. I made a block that is bored to hold the Taig screw nut and the block is attached to the Z axis using the Z axis "T" slot.

    The 80/20 channel material is 1"x1"x16" for the front and back bar and 1"x2"x12.5" for the sides for a 16"x14.5" overall size You could probably use 1"x1"x12" and 1"x2"x12" to save on material costs.

    You may want to rethink trying to make your machine CNC and manual. Using a split nut design to disengage and engage the X axis screw will not give you the backlash tolerances you will need for the CNC.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    4415
    Do you have a cnc machine at this time or have you had one? The desire to be able to manually control a machine is every first time builders concern. Once you use a cnc machine at all you will see how unnecessary it is. You will be able to place the spindle/tool and or table anywhere you want it pretty effortlessly. You can use the keyboard/mpg or shuttle pro to control the machine while you watch very closely. Dont let the desire for manual controls get in your way.
    Quote Originally Posted by craynerd View Post
    Hello Sprinter,

    I`ve recently got myself a taig (peatol here in the UK) I want to convert it to a CNC machine but keep the manual function. I`m interested in your latest design but could I just ask a couple of questions, bearing in mind I`m learning in engineering and not only that but this is my first fully CNC attempt (only moved single axis up to now)

    1. Could you possible send any more pictures of the X-axis (main carrage) traverse mechanism. I know you have posted a few pictures but I can`t see how the lead screw is supported at the rear end of the lathe. Also how is the lead screw engaged? I like the idea of keeping this on the back as it seems to keep it out of the way. I also guess if you can disengage this, full manual control will be gained.

    2. The frame you have used it 20/40 frame you said. I`ve done a search for UK suppliers and is this the stuff: 0-132-2020 Aluminium Structural Sections Profiles Retrofit Frame | World of CNC - Marchant Dice
    I presume it is about 400mm long as the bed of the lathe is this length, what width did you use - I have noticed from your pictures that actually the frame is quite wide.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    I ordered a Tachulator LittleMachineShop.com - Tachulator Tachometer & SFM Meter. It has some great features such as SFM as well as a tach. Does anyone have any experience with this device? As soon as I receive it and get it mounted, I'll add some photos.

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