[MarkU]

I have been doing some rapid prototyping at work (small pieces of science equipment), using a laser cutter and 3D printer, but may have an opportunity to get a CNC mill as well. I am looking at the Taig MicroMill DSLS3000 with 4th axis rotary table. This system is relatively inexpensive, as lab equipment goes, so I would prefer to design a fairly complete setup now and have everything I am likely to need, rather than leaving things out to save a few dollars and then have to deal with the hassle & paperwork of chasing things down one at a time later.

I have not done CNC machining before (although hopefully the 3D design work I've been doing for the 3D printer & laser cutter will shorten the learning curve), and have not purchased a system before, so I am looking for suggestions as to what you would include in a good general-use setup. The main objective is to get a versatile system that "just works" and does not require a lot of babying. The 12" x 5.5" x 6" travel will cover the size range I expect to need and a bit more, and the "Complete system package 2a" here: Specials looks pretty good, although I think maybe the vise might be a bit small. Does anyone know if the precision milling vises from littlemachineshop.com (for example LittleMachineShop.com - Vise, 4" Precision Milling, Heavy) are easily fitted to the Taig table? And what else would you get as part of the set (e.g. cutters, parallels, etc)?

Finally, with the 4th axis, how much extra capacity would having a separate lathe give me? I could potentially propose something like the Taig lathe as well, if I thought having one would significantly increase my flexibility. If you have both, how much do you use the lathe?

Thanks!

Mark

[Jeff-Birt]

Hi Mark,

Interestingly my first introduction to a Taig mill was buying one to use for a laboratory experiment. Glad to see other laboratory uses of a Taig. In my case I was so impressed with the Taig machine and the folks at Taig that I wound becoming a dealer.

First let me say that the 4" vised you linked to is way to big for the Taig. The vise that Taig provides is a bit tricky to use but very useful. I also recommend looking at the screw-less vise that Sherline makes. For larger items you will likely find that using other clamping methods is more advantageous. I really like the toggle clamps make by A2Z CNC and include at least one set in starter kits.

I would also recommend getting the 5 piece bit set from Taig to start out with, and perhaps a fly cutter, and a few extra spindle belts. Oh yes the Edge finder Taig sells is the perfect size for the machine also.

The 4th axis on a mill is handy for lots of things. If you have a lot of turning work to then a lathe will make the job quicker. It is also possible to mount a Lathe style headstock to the mill, and tool posts to the bed and make a sort of vertical gang lathe. The programming is a bit complex, but it can work well for some things.

[awerby]

there are more ways of holding things on the mill than a vise. But if you are getting a larger vise than Taig provides, do get the parallels as well - it makes it much easier to hold a range of stock. I like the small precision screwless vise that Enco sells, but you need a hold-down kit to mount it. If you're getting the rotary fourth axis, get the 3-jaw and 4-jaw chucks along with it; that makes setting it up and holding stock a lot easier.

The rest really depends on what you're trying to make. If you're doing things with curved surfaces, you'll need ball-nosed endmills: big ones for roughing out and small ones for detail. If you are making lathe-type parts, you can do a lot of that with the 4th axis, but using a lathe is a lot quicker, and the tooling is cheaper as well.

Andrew Werby
ComputerSculpture.com — Home Page for Discount Hardware & Software

[MarkU]

Thanks guys. RE the set of 5 milling cutters from Taig, can I assume those are center-cutting? And how deep a slot can you mill with them before you run out of cutter length?

Mark

[awetmore]

These two vises work pretty well on the Taig:
LittleMachineShop.com - Vise, 2" Screwless
or
LittleMachineShop.com - Vise, 3" Screwless

It would be nicer if they had replacable jaws so that one could make jaws with built in parallels or locating pins. The 3" version opens wider, but the 2" version doesn't hit the Z leadscrew on the Taig, so it is a bit easier to use. I have one of each setup on my Taig most of the time.

I don't like the stock Taig vise. The moving jaw lifts easily and it just isn't really sturdy enough.

The Sherline screwless vise looks similar to the LMS 2" one, but is made of aluminum instead of steel. It has replaceable jaws which is nice. If it opened up to 3.5" or 4" I'd be more excited about it.

alex

[strohkirchw]

Thanks guys. RE the set of 5 milling cutters from Taig, can I assume those are center-cutting? And how deep a slot can you mill with them before you run out of cutter length?

Mark

The ones I received were all under a 1/2" LOC

I recently picked up a mill with the taig package as well and this what I've added over the last couple of months:

- Dial Caliper
- Dial Indicator with magnetic holder
- Dial Test Indicator with spindle holder
- Electronic Edge Finder
- Electronic Height Gauge
- Parallel set
- 5/32" Collet
- Tooling Plate
- Shars Toolmakers vises 5" and 7"
- A2Z Clamp Set with screws and studs
- Toe Clamps and Setup Blocks
- Enclosure materials
- Mach3 Full and Cambam Full
- Tooling...but that doesn't really count


Hope that helps give you an idea
Vise Link: shars.com - Precision Toolmakers Vises

[desktoplathes]

Mark - Have you tried contacting this guy? He had a complete setup for sale.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/taig_m...sing_taig.html

[awetmore]

- Shars Toolmakers vises 5" and 7"

Note that Shars lists vise dimensions by how much they open, not their width. I was wondering how you fit a 7" vise on a Taig, but it is a 3" wide vise according to how most catalogs list them.

The Shars 3-1/4" vise looks like a useful size for the Taig because it is only 2" tall and won't hit the Z leadscrew, and it has slotted sides instead of just using holes. If it only had replaceable jaws and opened up a bit wider it might be the perfect Taig-sized vise

alex

[strohkirchw]

I don't quite understand why companies list jaw width as the vise "size". The X dimension seems to be the largest on most mills, which implies that most work will be done along that dimension. So that would also imply that capacity along that dimension would be the very first attribute you'd need to know about a vise.

[Jeff-Birt]

I don't quite understand why companies list jaw width as the vise "size". The X dimension seems to be the largest on most mills, which implies that most work will be done along that dimension.

Generally a vise is mounted so the jaws are parallel to the X-axis...

[awetmore]

I don't quite understand why companies list jaw width as the vise "size". The X dimension seems to be the largest on most mills, which implies that most work will be done along that dimension. So that would also imply that capacity along that dimension would be the very first attribute you'd need to know about a vise.

Most people setup milling vises so that the width of the vise is along the X axis.

Both dimensions are important. I have a variety of milling vises and pick the one that is best suited for the work at hand. On my Taig I normally have a 3" screwless vise setup normally, and a 2" screwless vise setup 90 degrees to that. The wide jaws of a 3" vise don't work with some of my parts. The narrow max opening of the 2" vise doesn't work with others.

I can see how a the 4" wide, 7" Shars vise turned sideways on the Taig could often be a useful setup for larger objects.

I don't understand why these vises don't have screw holes on the face for replaceable jaws or bolt-on parallels. The Starrett vise does, but is very expensive:
Starrett Precision Grinding Vise, Starrett 581

[strohkirchw]

Generally a vise is mounted so the jaws are parallel to the X-axis...

Is there is a particular reason? Most mills seem to have tables that are much longer X dimension, so if you mount it length wise on Y then you'd limit yourself in what you can hold. Obvious example is the Taig and the "7" inch vise.

[strohkirchw]

I can see how a the 4" wide, 7" Shars vise turned sideways on the Taig could often be a useful setup for larger objects.

My first project on my mill is a item that is 5.5" L by 3.75" W. For the Taig, this obviously works rather well one way and not the other

I don't understand why these vises don't have screw holes on the face for replaceable jaws or bolt-on parallels. The Starrett vise does, but is very expensive:
Starrett Precision Grinding Vise, Starrett 581

Holy wow
I'm not sure how they managed to squeeze in $940 more labor and materials into that compared to the Shars.

[awetmore]

Is there is a particular reason? Most mills seem to have tables that are much longer X dimension, so if you mount it length wise on Y then you'd limit yourself in what you can hold. Obvious example is the Taig and the "7" inch vise.

If you are milling something that is 7" X, 3" Y, 0.5" Z you probably cut it from a longer section of 3x0.5" stock. The top and bottom will be consistent and clean from the mill, but the two sides will be rough from being cut on a bandsaw (so they need to be cleaned up on the mill). You can't mill 7" in the Y on the Taig, so you couldn't mount it that way. So the vise couldn't be mounted lengthwise.

You could start with 7" x 0.5" stock, but that is harder to find.

Currently I'm making runs of plates that are about 3x3x0.25". I buy 3x0.25" extruded 6061 in lengths of 8', then cut them down rough to 3.25" on my bandsaw. The mill cleans up the two sides, drills a few holes, and leaves the front and back alone.

alex