[biker-machinist]

what kind of stepper motors do you used with this machine ? The reason I am asking cause I plan to build one similiar to your and not sure those motor from Nema23 269 oz.in. Double Stack/Double Shaft Bipolar Stepper Motor
will be able to handle moving that much of weight.
I am new to this and assume that the more oz.in the more weight it handle, is that correct ?

[lee-tree]

Hack,

I am new to the site and new to CNC machines. I am an importer of burl, which I sell on the internet (through my web site). I really like the look of your machine.

I am looking for something that can handle a burl slab up to 5' x 8' x 6" and flatten it for use in table tops. I have been surfing quite a bit and cannot get much helpful information (which this site definately has). So, I know what I don't know, which is how to build a CNC Router. Would you be willing to modify your plans and either offer a kit, or the assembled machine that could handle what I am trying to accomplish. I think that we would need a larger spindle, and probably a sturdier bed, etc. I do not need a tool for full time use as I might receive 20 slabs every few months.

Interested? If so, please contact me off-line [email protected].

Of course, any other advice any of you can offer to get me more educated would be welcome.

Thanks.

- lee -

[tweet469]

I'm also new to the sight so please bear with me. I have several different types of steppers. As i mentioned the Vexpa 6VDC .8A 1.8 deg/step. I have several of these which have 6 leads. I have a 8-lead gear reducer type (35RPM) ans I also have a 24 V VEXPA 1.8deg./step. I'll have to get all this out of my storage to make sure of everything. I'm only doing styrene, plesi-glass and acrylic up to 3/8" thick and have not gone full CNC yet. Presently I have q manual x-y table and set z-axis with the Dremel router attachment. Sounds like a very interesting project. Sorry for the late reply, I had a short bout with a UTI (urinary tract infection

[sdantonio]

Looks like a very rigid setup. PLease let us know how it performs when you get the chance to do some really heavy cutting.

Steven

[dnewcer]

With regard to the slack in the bearings, 8020 also sells shims, the trade of being rigidity = more energy to move.

[Hack]

Tweet, - Thanks for the offer, but no thanks.

Lee-tree - my router would not scale to the 5' x 8' size that you are requesting. The extrusions would not span that far without flexing and the lead screws would whip quite badly at that span. It would be quite a bit of re-engineering to build a table that size. It could be done obviously, but my plans are not necessaritly a starting point for a table that size.

Biker, I use a 270 oz/in motor on all three axis with the xylotex board. Works just fine!

sdantonio - setup seems to work well. I wish I had a variable speed router though as the laminate trimmer rpm is to fast for the speeds at with the router moves at. You have to be careful or you will burn bits. Also, straight plunge cuts are tough, so I just be sure to ramp in/out. Keep in mind this was in red oak. Particleboard, etc work good, and I was plunging at 22 ipm - probably to fast anyways.

[grantmi1]

What type of computer are you running? Power speed? Also what software and controllers do you guys recommend.

Where can a person download some cad files for wood trim ideas and hardware and stuff?

I am a newbie to this.

[ger21]

What type of computer are you running? Power speed? Also what software and controllers do you guys recommend.

Where can a person download some cad files for wood trim ideas and hardware and stuff?

I am a newbie to this.

It's a good idea to start a new thread with your questions, rather than asking in someone else's existing thread. You'll usually get much better responses.

Most people here use either TurboCNC, which runs in DOS, with as little as a 486-DX2, or Mach3 which need XP or Win2K, and at least a 750Mhz PC (1Ghz recommended, but some people get away with 500's)

[bryanrabb]

Hack,
Just downloaded the plans. Nice work. I will keep you posted as I will be following them pretty close. One question I have is how did you couple the motors to the screws?

[Hack]

I attached the motors to the screws with couplers - specifically called oldham couplers from Mcmaster Carr. The come in different sizes an allow you to adapt the 1/4" motor shaft to the 1/2" screw.

Dan

[wallyh]

Well, I've been looking for some time now for a first build. I just ordered the plans today and I'm looking forward to collecting parts and building. If all goes well, I'll post some pictures.
Wally

[wallyh]

I think I read somewhere that you used a Porter-Cable laminate trimmer. Would a variable speed router be better, and if so, what make and model would you suggest to use?
Thanks, Wally

[spalm]

Not sure if I should be posting in Hack’s thread, but… I bought a PC laminate trimmer years ago (to trim laminate, imagine that), but I don’t like it very much. It is small but expensive (around $100). It is single speed, 1/4” collet, loud, and I found that bits got jammed in the collet resulting in lots of swear words. For about the same price you can get a 2hp+ variable speed router with 1/2" quick release collet. It will be a larger beast to mount, but I think it is a no-brainer. Hitachi has one that several people are using here for sub $100 (sold at home depot). I bought a 1617EVS Bosch and really like it, you can get it as a motor only or a factory reconditioned to save money. Check eBay and google.

Steve

[wallyh]

Thank you for the router suggestion spalm. Another question, can 3/4 baltic plywood be used in place of the MDF? Also, I should be able to shorten the x and y axis by one or two inches without any problem?
Thanks, Wally

[Hack]

I personally would like to have a variable speed router on mine, but haven't done so. The laminate trimmer has a tendency to burn the wood due to its high rpm and the machines relatively slow cut speed. Just try to not get to heavy of a router.

Baltic birch will work, but is a bit more expensive.

Dan

[wallyh]

Thank you Dan, the Baltic birch was left over from another project. I'm still trying to learn about the 8020. When I look on ebay I see the word lite used with some of the 1530 rails, is this ok for the rails or is there another descriptor that I should be looking for?
thanks again, Wally

[Hack]

Unfortunately I cannot answer your question. I have not used the Lite version, however I do know that it is thinner walled and not as heavy duty. Would ealily work for the Z Axis, but may cause some deflection on the longer x & y axis. Can't say.

Dan

[bryanrabb]

The lite sucks. I had a few pieces of it laying around. It is lite, it would be OK for the z axis, but it does deflect a bit. Be careful if you build your own bearings, make sure you use a vix bit to drill the pilot holes for the screws, if the holes are not perfect, they will bind up the slides resulting in a whole lot of drag. I am going to post a list of little things that you should be careful of when building this plan. It is a very good plan, but I have made a few mods. FOr instance, make sure you are very, very accurate with your holes for the z axis rails. if they are not perfectly parallel, it will bind up the bearings.

[esmiller]

Also enclosed a pic of the dust collection attachment that I made. Works pretty good, but will have to trim the brushes a little as the are about 1/2" to long. Much nicer than breathing all that dust though. Lot less clean up as well

Where did you get those brushes? everywhere I ask says they are no longer made.. any suggestions on where to buy some?

Eddie

[wallyh]

Thanks bryanrabb for your comments. I'm going to collect some parts and wait for your post on mods. Did you make any changes to the mfd parts? If not, I could start cutting and drilling.
Wally