Originally Posted by
BodaciousBrian
I fired up Gwizard to calculate my cut depth, and its result is INCREDIBLY different from what I've been doing. Before I break something trying this, I though I would post the results here.
Taig CNC mill, no coolant, just air.
I'm cutting 6061 aluminium with a 0.25 4 flute carbide endmill. I want to use max rpm - 10,000. I set cut depth and width to 0.1" and it came up with 80 IPM. Seriously?
Yep, seriously. Take a look at what some of the other postings are getting. If I had 10K rpm I'd be running that on my IH mill easily.
But, and this is a big BUT, there are limiting factors.
For hobbyists, they will boil down to your machine rigidity, your coolant and chip clearing practices, and your CAM program. Let's consider each.
For machine rigidity, horsepower is your proxy. Horsepower is what will be pushing against the machine to overcome its rigidity. We'd like to think our machine manufacturers would not put a motor that's too big on the machine, so we can start with that. G-Wizard will scale back your cut to stay within the horsepower limit you set for your machine.
But, if you have a very lightweight machine, perhaps the motor is still a bit much. You will get a feel for that. Just scale back the horsepower limit. You can use MRR too, it's almost the same as HP.
BTW, that 10K rpm by 80 IPM cut is 0.4 HP. That seems like a lot for a Sherline. If we stick a 1/4 HP limit on, GW scales back to 7300 rpm and circa 50 IPM. Why scale back rpm? Because it adds tool life, so start there first. Also, scaling back feedrate too much reduces the chipload to the point that the cutter rubs, which reduces tool life.
What about coolant and chip clearing?
This has got to be the #1 reason I hear from hobby machinists for breaking cutters. Especially when slotting or going around corners, they fail to clear chips. If you don't have flood, or a continous mist with enough airflow to move the chips out, you have to stand over it with an air gun in your hand. Be very paranoid about recutting chips. On some materials (stainless!), the chips are work hardened. Imagine tossing handfuls of hardened sharp objects into the path of your cutter.
Some materials are sticky (aluminum and stainless). With nothing to lubricate, the chips want to stick to the cutter to the point they weld on and you have mess with eventually a broken cutter. Fix it by first (you knew I was going to say this) clearing the chips and second, making sure an appropriate liquid is available to lubricate, at least as a mist. If you don't have a mister, spray on some WD-40 every now and then. There are high end endmill coatings that lubricate for dry cutting, but they are material dependent and as a hobbyist, you don't want to pay the premium for them. So lubricate with mist or your can of WD-40.
Lastly, there is the CAM program, and some of it is how you use the program, and some is what the program is capable of.
If you've ever seen those crazy loopy HSM toolpaths, and looked at the feeds and speeds available for them in G-Wizard, you will know they appear to defy the laws of physics. If I take your same cut parameters, but specify I will cut the slot with a trochoidal path and no more than 30% engagement, suddenly I can go 10K rpm and 113 IPM, and that's with the 1/4 HP limit still on!
You've also no doubt experienced chatter in corners, or maybe even broken a cutter in a corner. HSM basically cuts corners without ever going around a corner.
What does this have to do with Hobby CAM? Well, let's say you have to profile the outside edge of a part. You have a choice. You can spiral out or spiral in. Always take the spiral in! If you spiral out, you're down in a slot with the cutter. That's much harder on it.
How you enter the cut matters, and there's lots about that on my mill surface finish page.
Lastly, there is the issue of jerking the tool around. If you look at the g-code, some CAM does a better job generating code that moves the tool very smoothly along the desired path. Others will jerk it around. Even a little micro-jerking matters.
Probably more than you wanted to know!
BW
PS Soigeneris, you need to learn more about feeds and speeds. The differences you talk about are all at the high end, not the bottom. It's very possible for a calculator to completely accurate in those conditions. In fact, its possible for it to be completely accurate exceeding manufacturer's recommended data if you have the right Knowledge Based-machining capabilities to compensate.
Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html