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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    0

    Question about Linistepper v2

    Hi everyone!
    For a long time i try to create the CNC router, for my hobby (r / c models), I made ​​different drivers, but I have not yet managed to put together something that works.
    I spent a lot of time reading the posts on this forum and on pminmo, collecting your experiences. I decided that my new drivers to be linistepper. The easiest, cheapest and safest way would be to buy them, but I have quite a good supply of electronic components, so I would still want to do alone, and I enjoy to make things.
    I study linistepper for long time and can conclude that I am able to make linistepper driver, but i still need help.
    The only thing that interests me, for now, is: Is it enough to create a hex file with MPLAB from ASM file attached to linistepper page, or earlier should be adjusted somewhat in the asm file.
    To be clear, I will use the PIC16F628A, if i create a hex file directly from Lini_asm_v21 file, whether it's ok or i need to adjust something in asm file before creating hex file ?

    a lot of respect ,
    Tomislav

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1397
    That should be fine. Just set the correct device, PIC16F628A, in MPLAB.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    0
    James, thanks for your response, your answer has confirmed my desire to make linistepper.
    And big thank to Roman, for sharing his knowledge and information.

    Sincerely,
    Tomislav

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    0
    Here is my progress with linistepper.
    I used brd from Sam Waters and squize it a little and add few vias.
    I also replace crystal with ceramic resonator like on the original schematics.
    Board is now 4,5cm x 6,2cm.
    Few resistors and switch is missing but i will add them soon. I don't have them now.



    Any coment are welcome !

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    nice looking board. Is it DIY or do you have access to some professional equipment.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1397
    tomovsb, that looks good! Toner Transfer? One thing I'm a bit concerned about is the power resistors... is there actually room for them? Be sure to leave lots of space for them to cool. E.g. don't solder them in right next to the board and separate them from each other. I may just not be gauging the available space correctly, but they look really close together and small. Also, if you want to drive more than 1 amp, you need to be able to add a second set or find power resistors with less than 1 ohm. Keep us posted?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    0
    Thanks, it is toner transfer, top layer is toner transfer too.
    I will put power resistor in vertical position and between each other will be about 5-6 mm.
    I don't plan to drive motor bigger than 1A, but i will add a place for tuning resistor.

    I will post my progress with linistepper here.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    0
    Here is pcb

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1397
    Ah... I didn't think of standing them up... makes sense.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    0
    James, you was right, i've never worked with such a large resistors so now, when i got it, i see that i have a little problem with them, in the reality it is much larger than the eagle drow on the pcb, there is no room for them, even if i put them in vertical position, but i may come up with something.
    I will post picture when i finish.
    In the meantime, I have deal with the interface board.
    This is my DIY PMinMO 4 axis, ( for linistepper ) .

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1397
    You can probably mount those power resistors off the board... I don't think a little extra lead length will make a difference... there will be some power running through those leads so watch out for any data cables running near the wires.... just like you would with motor leads. Shouldn't be much of a problem. Perhaps you can figure out some way to mechanically mount the resistors since the leads will be too long to reliably support them.

    You know, GeckoDrive puts the current sense resistors on the motor side of a connector so that the setting "goes" with the motor if you switch motors out. I don't suppose another header would happen to fit in place of those power resistor pads? Then you could call it a feature instead of a bug! LOL...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    0
    Yes, but I decided to make a new pcb, and resets the elements.
    Now I added pins for tuning resistors.
    Thanks for the advice !




    I still didn't get those missing components yet, but i will soon.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    0
    Hello everyone,

    I'm a little stuck with the job and have less time for the CNC project, but here the situation is coming to an end.
    I solder all the elements on linistepper and the interface board is over too.
    Now just waiting for my brother to flash pic, and then I start to bother you with questions :-)

    I guess I'll need some help about putting drivers in the drive.

    Here are some pictures of the progress ...






  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1397
    I'm concerned that the small transistors near that one power resistor are gonna get toasty... Longer leads on the power resistors might be needed.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    0
    Thanks for the tip, I did not think the power resistor will be so warm, I will extend the wire of power resistor.
    I got the pic, so now I can start with the cables. I hope that I will not merge something wrong and that i will not burn something.
    I have this schematics from pminmo for connecting driver, power supply and 4 axis interface board so i hope that i can connect it in this way ?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1397
    I'm not sure why those resistors are in there... doesn't make sense to me. There is a nice block diagram at:
    Break Out Board, Logic Power Regulator, Relay Driver, Indicators, Switches, Microchip PIC, LCD Panel, Current and Temp sensors. That shows how our kit's go together.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    0
    Thanks James !

    I have a question : Is there any way to step motor without connecting driver to pc, to see the driver board is working ?

    When i power it up, motor get in hold position ( stay in one position ) and get slightly warm after few minutes, power resistor also get slightly warm, but i can't get motor to turn.
    I am using mach3, and i don't know if i mess up something with software setup, so i would like to check driver board without sw ( if that is possible ) !

    Best regards,
    Tomislav

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2083
    Hi Tomovsb ,

    try this circuit from Geckodrive.com :--

    Support


    John

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1397
    That circuit will work, or you can get one of our pulse/test options for our 4 Axis BOB:
    piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/linistep/4axis4build.htm

    But I would also suggest checking pin 17 of the PIC on the Linistepper to see if you are getting a step pulse from the PC to that pin. Not the trace, or the connector, but the actual PIC pin.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    0
    Finally!

    My linistepper work, I made a circuit with 74hc14 chip, and the motor is spinning half round every second ( depend in what stepping mode ) all stepping mode are working. Thanks a lot to John for information and a huge thanks to James Newton for all the guidance and selfless assistance.
    Now I have to connect the interface board with drivers and try SW.
    I will attach pictures of progress.
    So many different versions of stepper drivers which have not worked and finally: linistepper is driver that work!!!

    I feel a great relief now..

    Best regards,
    Tomislav

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