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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    1328
    Wanted to post the 3D renderings of the gantry mounts I intend to make... I posted them else where, but figured they belonged with the thread about the machine they are gonna be used on too..

    In reality, they will be an inch and a half wider (in the Y direction) than those shown, as the gantry beam is currently extending that far past the rails on each side...






  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post
    I got it at IKEA in LA a long time ago... (20 yrs?)..

    Would be pretty easy to make though.. I can take more pics if you want...
    Thanks,

    The reason for asking is that I had been considering using some left over 1x2 box tubing for the main vertical structure to build something similar to what you showed. There is nothing more than just the thought so far. I wouldn't be copying that one, so no other photos are really needed. I have some steel angle and some shorter pieces of 1x2 box tube that may be useful.

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    So I'm trial fitting my Z axis together, and notice that when the screw is in the bearing blocks and I turn it, it 'wobbles'.. Probably about a 16th inch run out...

    Is this normal.. Seems to me that they should be straight as an arrow.. Are McMaster Carr ACME screws normally 'true' or is it typical to have some bend and has to be field straightened?

    Should I attempt to straighten it by hand? Should I call them and demand a replacement?

    It's a 1/2" x 36" long 5 start screw.. I'll be using about 22-24" of it...

    Seems to me that this would cause problems.. vibration, bearing wear, etc...

    But I've never ordered one of these before.. so I don't know if it's status quo for these things to arrive 'out of true'...

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Can anyone advise me about the acme screw? I'm not sure what is 'typical' with these things...

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    0
    I'm not sure what the norm is, but I have purchased 5' screws that were pretty darn straight. Bought from Roton.com....

    On the other hand, if you can get it close to straight it should not be a problem.

    It's gonna be constrained by the AB nut, so it should not be able to wobble too far. On my first machine, I have a 1/2" screw about 48" long and while it is straight, it still whips a bit at higher speeds. I don't think a 24" screw will be any problem at all.

    HTH

    Jeff
    "I'm tryin to think but nothin happens" - Curly Howard

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Thanks Mr. Butcher....

    There will probably be about 20-22" in between the two bearing blocks, and 4.5-5" less than that at any time between the lead nut and either bearing block...

    It's on the Z axis and will be direct connected to a 640oz NEMA 34 motor... So it's movements will largely be pretty small.. But I was concerned about bearing wear from a screw that causes a bit of binding...

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Sorry for being late to the party, but in the SuperPID thread, I show detailed pics of how I set it up on a 690.
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/849835-post182.html
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Update:more pictures

    So, more progress over the last couple days... Got the gantry rails drilled out, and the Y to Z carriage partially put together, and the Z carriage partially put together..

    Built some mock up gantry end transitions out of wood (decided to go all aluminum with the final versions)..

    I must have been off a hair on a couple of the holes on the Z rails, as I am unable to pull it all the way in to 1/2" overhang (very close, but no cigar), so I will be re-drilling at least one rail out to 7/16" holes from the existing 3/8"... Probably will go ahead and drill both so I don't have to fight it any more anywhere on down the line...

    I'm waiting for the 4" flat bar to arrive, and also to get a chance to get into town and get some more bolts I need to have everything to finish putting the Y to Z carriage and Z carriage together.. I am also waiting for info from Ahren that I need so I know how long to cut the plate, the screw, and where to position everything (mostly, how far the motor shaft sticks below the mounting plate)..

    I also will be drilling out the helical coupling to 1/2" and changing out the motor mount shown, as I've decided to go with all NEMA 34, as opposed to the NEMA 23 motors...

    The Z carriage in some of the pictures is just standing upside down in it's eventual location.. It's not actually mounted to anything yet...

    The thing rolls nicely without any racking, so I know it will be very solid when the gantry transitions are made with thick aluminum, and the base table is made from welded steel rectangular tube...

    This is a bit of work... Glad I went with the CNCrouterparts stuff, as that took a lot of fabrication and what not out of the loop...

    But I'm getting there, slowly but surely...

    Anyways, enough yakking, and on to the pictures...








  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    I might be the only one that ever admits to this in public, but I know I'm not the only one who does it..

    But every time I walk anywhere near this thing, I have to grab the gantry or Z carriage assy, and obsessively move it back and forth on the rails...

    I think that means I'm excited about all of this! Can't wait until it's 'ALIVE!'

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    1328
    I've gone as far as I can on this thing until I get more parts/steel/fasteners...

    So I think I'll start designing the aluminum versions of the gantry transitions in 3D today, and play with the demo software used to convert and generate the G code that I downloaded, so that once this things is alive, I can use it to make those parts... practicing first in wood, then for real in aluminum...

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    8082
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post
    I might be the only one that ever admits to this in public, but I know I'm not the only one who does it..

    But every time I walk anywhere near this thing, I have to grab the gantry or Z carriage assy, and obsessively move it back and forth on the rails...

    I think that means I'm excited about all of this! Can't wait until it's 'ALIVE!'
    Well, you may as well enjoy it now. Take it from me, it's going to be a big let-down from just pushing it around anytime you want to. You'll actually have to wait for the thing to boot up, and hear the motor thumps, and find the right keys on the keyboard. Worse yet, you'll have to learn to run all sorts of software before it will do anything useful. Ah, but we geeks like that kind of thing don't we?

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

  12. #32
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    Jul 2010
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    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by CarveOne View Post
    Well, you may as well enjoy it now. Take it from me, it's going to be a big let-down from just pushing it around anytime you want to. You'll actually have to wait for the thing to boot up, and hear the motor thumps, and find the right keys on the keyboard. Worse yet, you'll have to learn to run all sorts of software before it will do anything useful. Ah, but we geeks like that kind of thing don't we?

    CarveOne
    Sigh.. I guess it's just a sacrifice I'll have to make for the cause....
    :cheers:

    I know it's getting more than a little over the top when I start making stepper and router noises with my mouth while I move it...

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082
    I too have made noises around my machine. However, all too often the noises are not complimentary, and are used to encourage said machine to work like I wanted it to instead of what I told it to do.

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by CarveOne View Post
    I too have made noises around my machine. However, all too often the noises are not complimentary, and are used to encourage said machine to work like I wanted it to instead of what I told it to do.

    CarveOne
    That's what beer is for... Putting everything in perspective....
    :cheers:

  15. #35
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    Jun 2007
    Posts
    15
    Can we see more pics.........

  16. #36
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    Jul 2010
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    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by anil View Post
    Can we see more pics.........
    I will be buying some more parts in a few days (gotta wait for the money, as I'm building this with cash as I get it), and it will take a few more days for them to arrive.. So unless Ahren answers the e-mails I sent him a couple weeks ago and gives me the dimensions I asked for, then I have gone as far as I can go, and will have to wait for the parts to arrive so that I can get the dimensions off of the parts themselves... In the grand scheme of things, it might be better to get the measurements off the actual parts anyways (no chance for miscommunication)

    But believe me, I am anxious to do more.. and as soon as I do, I will post the progress....
    :cheers:

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082
    Many of Ahren's parts have downloadable drawings in DXF, PDF and CAD models on his web site.

    Is it something that one of us can help with?

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    I need to know how far the motor shaft on the 640 oz stepper he sells protrudes past the bottom of the Z axis mounting plate.... I'm also needing to know how much of a gap should be between the end of the motor shaft and the Z screw (inside the helical coupling).. This information is necessary for me to know how long to cut the 4" flat bar...

    If I had the motor, it would be a no brainer... but I thought it would be nice to work on that stuff while waiting to get the moola together, so that it's out of the way and the work doesn't all stack up at once...

    It's not a huge deal...

    The other thing I'd like to know, is the difference between the MeanWell switching power supply he said he could supply me (not listed yet on their website,but I'm pretty sure he's talking about the SE-100-48) and the Torroidial Power Supplies from Keling... Is one better than the other? More reliable? Is the main difference just the enclosure and fan on the meanwell?

    The meanwell is considerably more expensive, but may be worth it... I need some 'sales' help here...

    There is zero info on his website regarding the motors other than the voltage, current, and in oz rating.. torque curves, drawings/dimensions and all that are non-existent...

    I like the idea of his stuff being plug and play, but I'd really like some more info on it all... It's pretty vague... and the money for this stuff adds up.... I don't mind paying the slight markup for all this stuff that he charges, as I think it's all quite reasonable, but a little hand holding is expected in return...

    Also, one thing I haven't asked him yet, but I need to know, is the BOB... what do I need? What is recommended with his system?...

    I will be using the super-PID controller for the router listed elsewhere here.. I will be needing zeroing/homing switches, E stops, tach input, etc... there may be other inputs I am not yet aware of that I need.. AFAIK, the BOB is the interface for all of this stuff, and I need to select one that has all the ins/outs required...

    Finally, the difference between the Gecko 201x and 203V? I think it is just 'protection'.. Is the extra 35 bucks worth it? are the bulletproof claims exaggerations? Are there other differences than the protection? Is this something I should not worry about and just buy the cheaper 201x drivers?

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Damn! Just went and looked on his website at that motor again, and now I see a link for the motor spec sheet (slaps forehead).. I don't know if it was always there and I missed it (like 12 times), or if it was added since I e-mailed him.. but it's there now...

    If that link has been there the whole time, I've wasted two weeks or more! DOH!

    Anyways, I could use some help on the rest of these questions if anyone can add insight.. especially about the BOB...

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    When the spec sheet says "2 phase" that means it can be hooked up bi-polar, correct?

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