[snapman]

I am looking at one of these as well but have not been able to look at it in person as of yet. It looks like the base of the TMC 100 is slightly different than the ProLight 1000 and I was curious as to the material- cast iron or the polymer composite? Also, does it have THK style linear rails or dovetails or a combination of the two and if so, what axis is what? Sorry for all the questions!

Best,
Ryan

[snapman]

Oops, I meant TMC 1000 not 100...and the only difference that I can see in the base is that the TMC looks to have a two piece base while the Prolight 1000 has a one big casting. I think I am going to do it no matter- but its always nice to have as much info as possible.

Thanks again,
Ryan

[research]

I have been really busy lately. I need to read this thread, but it looks like you made some real progress. Do you have it all up and running now?

We now have the machine at the school, but its in storage. Once Finals are over (a month or so) I hope to get to work on it. We have the control box and the old computer with the software. Hopefully, that will give me a good start.

If you need some help with the CAD end of it let me know. I have AutoCAD 2006 and a lot of other Autodesk software that I use daily.

[44 Echo]

Hi:

I recently acquired a TMC-1000, that I used to use quite a bit at work. It has the old WIndows 95 DOS based software, and servo motors, w/controller. Recently, after getting it all set up, I tried firing it up, and although I can hear the motors energizing, like I used to, when I try and make the table traverse, in the X and Y, or the head in the Z axis, nothing moves. At first I thought it was a keyboard or mouse issue, but I can control the motor spindle through the interface. Any suggestions?

Also, is there a better way around the software issue, rather than using the clunky DOS software that came with it? i've tried to go back to Light Machines, but as you are aware of, I am sure, they want to treat me like I'm made of money

Thanks,

44 Echo

[Norsksea]

I am looking at one of these as well but have not been able to look at it in person as of yet. It looks like the base of the TMC 100 is slightly different than the ProLight 1000 and I was curious as to the material- cast iron or the polymer composite? Also, does it have THK style linear rails or dovetails or a combination of the two and if so, what axis is what? Sorry for all the questions!

Best,
Ryan

Hi Ryan
My Light Machine has a aluminum base and factory added 2 inch block so there is more room to mill with a vice on the table. The newer prolight 1000 have a composite base (composite marble I think) to make it heavier for for better cutting. Mine has linear rails and ball screws.
Frank

[Norsksea]

Hi:

I recently acquired a TMC-1000, that I used to use quite a bit at work. It has the old WIndows 95 DOS based software, and servo motors, w/controller. Recently, after getting it all set up, I tried firing it up, and although I can hear the motors energizing, like I used to, when I try and make the table traverse, in the X and Y, or the head in the Z axis, nothing moves. At first I thought it was a keyboard or mouse issue, but I can control the motor spindle through the interface. Any suggestions?

Also, is there a better way around the software issue, rather than using the clunky DOS software that came with it? i've tried to go back to Light Machines, but as you are aware of, I am sure, they want to treat me like I'm made of money

Thanks,

44 Echo

Hi 44Echo
I was given the option for the old control panel and ISA card for the DOS system. I turned them down to save $200. I am new to CNC in making retrofit and learned a lot, but did not want to learn an obsolete DOS CNC control system. I had a choice and with Mach 3 and Windows XP and can learn to use the newest Cad /Cam software I can afford.
You may be use the power supply and control box for the servo's.. Then get gecko servo drives and a Campbell breakout board to convert to using a parallel cable to mach 3.
Frank

[Norsksea]

I called Prolight and talked with a service technician. He found an old wiring diagram and gave me the color codes over the phone from it. I changed the steppers and added a connector to the wiring harness and noted the color changes to my diagrams. Here are my diagrams to help me wire the 15 pin and 9 pin connectors that match the original connectors on the wiring harness that go to the steppers.
The 15pin and 9 pin connectors in the diagrams are shown from the side that I need to wire then from inside the control panel. The “To Steppers Color” is where the 4 stepper colored wires is added to the wiring harness via connector.
Frank
Disclaimer
Use these diagrams at your own risk. I do not know if your light Machine has the same wiring harness.

[ghynes]

Thanks Frank,

These diagrams should prove most helpful when I get around to updating the controls. I want to keep the mill stock and build the new controller with matching connectors so it will be plug and play. I can live with the DOS for awhile, at least until it cuts all the panel cutouts for the new controller. The DOS stuff is very simlpe to use but somewhat limited. It probably won't like 3d cut files with 40,000 blocks of code. That is the beauty of MACH3 and PC hardware cause is so cheap to set-up and upgrade as required. The mill itself seems a very solid and precision piece of tooling!

Love to hear from any and all lurkers on the list who have this fine machine...............we need more coverage here in the forum. Please step up and let us know you are out there. (group)


gerald

[snapman]

Hi again, everyone.

I agree with Gerald- these are fine machines and need more coverage here!

We have a Prolight 1000 we purchased at auction- it was set up as a winding machine for stents- didn't have a spindle head on it, but I recognized the base and rotary table right off the bat. We had a Minitech MiniMill 1 with an NSK spindle and Flashcut- so we moved both to the Prolight and I have been nothing but impressed. We just purchased a Prolight 2000 mill and 3000 lathe- they were in the classified ads right here on the zone. We're going to look and see what is the best route to take as far as upgrading the motion control, but I am hoping the DOS setup the mill comes with will be able to handle the code generated by OneCNC for the short term. We may end up mounting our NSK spindle to the side of the stock spindle head, move the Flashcut over, and keep the existing mill hardware for a later upgrade. I really like Flashcut, and don't mind waiting until we make some money to upgrade, so long as I can get what needs to be done, done.

Anyway, I'm impressed with these machines and am learning a lot from following this thread- so thanks everyone!

Peace,
Ryan

[ghynes]

Ryan,

You should have little problem posting code to the mill. How much code will depend on the memory of your DOS pc. Post it as basic generic G code or possibly FANUC. You might want to manual edit to add a safety block depending on how you want the machine to start up. Originally I thought the DOS would be a pain but it isn't so bad. Main problem I had was I didn't have a DOS pc running in the office where I program and had to go to the machine shop to test/run. I did set up an old PC to save me the walking I have cut a few parts with several thousand lines of code and still had loads of memory left (like 90%) There is something in the book I recall about allocating memory to the program but I haven't needed to do that.

Gerald

[snapman]

Ok, so I have a basic question am hoping Frank, or Gerald, or any others who have this mill can help me understand: What type of toolholders do I need to get? Do I need to get/make a drawbar? I am only used to the collets that the NSK uses- and I used a Sherline awhile back- but I am confused because I thought the mill had an R8 taper but on the Benchman website (the company's current site) it says that an ISO 20 tool holder is included- is that differnent than R8 and what is the difference between the threaded type and the ones that have a pull stud? I am assuming on is auto tool change and the other manual? I would like to order some tooling/toolholders before going to pick the machine up later this week- I need to start cutting as soon as I get back.

All help appreciated! And Frank, sorry to intrude on your project log- it just seems like this is the place to gather for talking about these great mills!

Ryan

[Norsksea]

This mill uses R8 collets. I also use a 3/4 shank ER-16 collet holder and spring collets. Posting here does not bother me at all.
Frank

[44 Echo]

Hi 44Echo
I was given the option for the old control panel and ISA card for the DOS system. I turned them down to save $200. I am new to CNC in making retrofit and learned a lot, but did not want to learn an obsolete DOS CNC control system. I had a choice and with Mach 3 and Windows XP and can learn to use the newest Cad /Cam software I can afford.
You may be use the power supply and control box for the servo's.. Then get gecko servo drives and a Campbell breakout board to convert to using a parallel cable to mach 3.
Frank

Thanks Frank, however, at some point I do want to look at getting away from the DOS system, but at this point, I just want to make sure everything is operational. Like I said before, I can't get ANY of the axis to move. Is there something I can do to troubleshoot this thing, make sure the servos are still good, before I start thinking about conversions...?

[Halfnutz]

They look like great machines, Ill trade one for my H.F.Mini Mill any day!

[ghynes]

Thanks Frank, however, at some point I do want to look at getting away from the DOS system, but at this point, I just want to make sure everything is operational. Like I said before, I can't get ANY of the axis to move. Is there something I can do to troubleshoot this thing, make sure the servos are still good, before I start thinking about conversions...?

So are you running the original motor control box with the card installed in your PC?? Have you checked all fuses in the control box? Is the TMC software installed and running properly? You must be running an old version of windows like 95 or possibly 98 as DOS programs will not run under XP. I use the TMC software under Win95 with good success. When you boot every thing up does the software at least recognize if the big red e-stop switch is pushed? You must make sure the key switch on the controller is unlocked. These are just a few thoughts that cometo mind.

Gerald

[ghynes]

They look like great machines, Ill trade one for my H.F.Mini Mill any day!

I wouldn't give you mine for 2 HF mini mill's. But seriously I have both machine and the HF is a toy along side the TMC. These are very capable, highly precise machines. I doubt the HF will ever come close even with the best possible CNC conversion. But I will let you know, if I can ever finish my HF CNC conversion to actually compare them. The TMC has a bigger table, more travel, twice or better the weight ,precision ballscrews and all axis run on fully supported linear rails. Hard for an HF to compete. Especially when you factor in that I have a KENNEMETAL qwick change tooling set-up on mine which is very convenient.....................not as convenient as a ATC but still very nice.

Gerald

[44 Echo]

Not to sound like a broken record, but does anyone know how to begin to troubleshoot these things? I have a TMC-1000 that sounds as though the motors are energizing, yet I cannot get any movement out of any of the axis. The spindle motor does turn and respon to the controller, however. I haven't the knowledge, or resources to start rebuilding or converting.

Thanks,

44 Echo

[44 Echo]

Sorry gerald, but I didn't see your post....
Yes, I have all of the original equipment installed, with the original controller. All fuses are good. I will check for recognition of the E-Stop, but I do not have a keyswitch on my unit. Again, all original and used to run fine, but I haven't ran it in a while. Tried to fire it up, motors energize, but table or head won't move. Spindle motor turns and responds to software, so I am assuming the E-stop is not an issue.

Thanks,

44 Echo

[ghynes]

44echo

Do you get any on screen indication of a limit switch being tripped? I got caught out on that one, having hit the limit of travel in one axis all are disabled and the only movement possible is to jog the offending axis off that limit. Possibly you have a failed or stuck limit switch? If you don't have a limit switch error on screen(will see it on manual mode screen) than I would trip one on the limit switches and see if it does register. The X axis is easy to trip the limits with your finger on either end of the table. Only other thing I would recommend is if you are comfortable with doing it is to remove the slotted PCB from your PC (power off and unplugged of course) If you notice carefully and your board is like mine, there are a number of IC's )integrated circuits) on the board that are plugged into sockets. Firmly and carefully press on each to ensure they are fully seated into their sockets. IC's will creep over time and make poor connections. Do this with all socketed IC's and than reinstall the PCB into the pcb and reconnect the cables and test again. You could also try reinstalling the software from scratch if you havethe original disks. Also I have noticed on my test PC I have the software installed but no mill or pcb connected. I use it to run tests only on my code. It will show no errors for e-stop or limits cause it knows there is no PCB installed. So if you get no errors from the switch the PC is not seeing the PCB. You could also try it in a different slot in the PC

Let me know if this helps or advise me as to any results or changes. Removing the PCB should not be done unless you are comfortable working with this sort of thing and if you have been experiencing static shocks or zaps you must be careful not to zap th epc or PCB, in absence of proper static discharge straps simply touching the screw on a grounded AC outlet should discharge any static on your body or clothes. It normally is not a big issue and after 20+ years in the service industry with 10 on computor hardware I have never zapped anything but there is always a first time. If in doubt seek advice from someone more experienced. If we were close I would look at it for you but I doubt you live near Manitoba (central Canada)

Cheers

Gerald

[44 Echo]

Gerald:

Thank you very much. I did not think about the limit switch, in that I thought that they would "kill" that particular axis, not all of them. I didn't realize whether or not the error was registering, but I will check again. My gut feel is that I have a bad cable, in that one of them got pressed pretty hard against the wall. I was wondering if you or anyone else might have schematics, so I could "bell" out the cables?
No, I don't live anywhere near central Canada. I live on the headwaters of the Chesapeake Bay, in a little Town called Perryville, MD. If you look at a US map, and follow the Chesapeake Bay, all the way North, there we are! Anyway, thanks again, I'll keep you posted as to what I find out.

Sincerely

Jerry