[I Lean]

Should I paint the inside of my water table? I'm wondering if the paint will just eventually flake off from being immersed in water and cutting garbage. :drowning:

[plain ol Bill]

I painted the iside of my water table. Used good quality paint - it all peeled off so don't bother.

[BBchevy396_]

I used a high quality marine 2-part epoxy primer & paint. It is looking good. If it's meant to stay on the bottom of a ship at sea, it should stay on the table.

Good prep, and prime is key.

Amercoat 302H primer, 235 seal coat, 229T top coat

http://ppgamercoatus.ppgpmc.com/products/Products.cfm

[I Lean]

Thanks guys. I'm not using good quality paint (just Rustoleum), so I'll rely on the rust-preventative properties of my water to keep it all happy.

[mxtras]

Why not use bed liner material? You can get it at Wal-Mart.

Scott

[vacextar]

I think this has been discussed before and I'm thinking the general consensus was that POR-15 is the way to go.


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[WSS]

Why not use bed liner material? You can get it at Wal-Mart.

Scott

Probably the way to go.

I put this kit in the "heavy crumb" on a tumbler. It set up hard and is waterproof. You would not want to cut with the table dry though, with any coating option I think. Keep that in mind.

Welcome to Liner Xtreeme

WSS

[tig-racer]

i used monstaliner to paint/seal my last CNC water table and it worked well. i applied an mild texture so its not to hard to clean.

[Dustin407]

Why not use bed liner material? You can get it at Wal-Mart.

Scott

I thought about using the bed liner material on the actual steel tubing of the machine, never thought about using it on the watertable. Just because it gets beat up after awhile with plate. On my next watertable build which will be within the next few months I have decided to go with epoxy/fiberglass. I will construct a mold out of 3/4" mdf basically the same shape as the watertable. Then spray your mold release or mold wax on the mdf then start laying glass and epoxy. When it dries pop it out put your slate members down and done. This way I will not have to worry about a "coating" to save it from rust..... I have an alum. watertable now but ive noticed that the rust from steel pieces sitting at the bottom is eating away at the alum. pretty soon it will eat all the way through. I have already made several patches but it is time to go with glass and epoxy watertable. Nothing more resistant to water than a boat haul..

[I Lean]

Thanks for the ideas, everyone!

I ended up using a POR-15 knockoff for the inside, since I already had it. The rest is just Rust-oleum for easy touchups when I add stuff to it later.

Now if only my linear rails would ship already, I could finish this thing!

[WSS]

I thought about using the bed liner material on the actual steel tubing of the machine, never thought about using it on the watertable. Just because it gets beat up after awhile with plate. On my next watertable build which will be within the next few months I have decided to go with epoxy/fiberglass. I will construct a mold out of 3/4" mdf basically the same shape as the watertable. Then spray your mold release or mold wax on the mdf then start laying glass and epoxy. When it dries pop it out put your slate members down and done. This way I will not have to worry about a "coating" to save it from rust..... I have an alum. watertable now but ive noticed that the rust from steel pieces sitting at the bottom is eating away at the alum. pretty soon it will eat all the way through. I have already made several patches but it is time to go with glass and epoxy watertable. Nothing more resistant to water than a boat haul..

I cannot imagine fiberglass working for a water tray. Do you cut only gauge material? We cut between 1/4" and 4" plate. When using oxy, just the preheat would probably weaken it. The cone on a 60amp nozzle can reach pretty far too. I suppose if it was really deep it might work. What if a part falls through? Do you have a screen in place? I was hoping to put a screen under the slats but it would not last long I think. Without water, I have cut a 4" slat in half once, it would bite a screen too. Did I miss something? I would like to be able to put some sort of sealer or protector on but am thinking of skipping it as plain ol bill mentioned.

WSS

[WSS]

Regarding a holding tank, does anybody have an access hole on their tank? Is it needed? I am wondering if it woud have a benifit or just pose another leak point. I will put 10psi of pressure on this tank to force the water out and up into the tray via two 2.5" hoses/ball valves.

WSS

[Dustin407]

I cannot imagine fiberglass working for a water tray. Do you cut only gauge material? We cut between 1/4" and 4" plate. When using oxy, just the preheat would probably weaken it. The cone on a 60amp nozzle can reach pretty far too. I suppose if it was really deep it might work. What if a part falls through? Do you have a screen in place? I was hoping to put a screen under the slats but it would not last long I think. Without water, I have cut a 4" slat in half once, it would bite a screen too. Did I miss something? I would like to be able to put some sort of sealer or protector on but am thinking of skipping it as plain ol bill mentioned.

WSS

Fiberglass and epoxy would work just fine for the water tray. But my slats are 3" tall and they would be 12 gauge steel, added to the fib/epoxy tray. My water table now is 5" deep and works great for my daily cutting schedule (thin Gauge to 3/4"). The fiberglass tray would be just the 5 sided rectangular box to hold water. This would be great because it is very durable to rust and water and heat.... I think maybe we have a misunderstanding were i mislead you to believe my slats would be fiberglass and no that would not work out very well I dont believe... I have an abundant of glass and epoxy because my dad and i build our own boats so its nothing for me money wise or skill to make a small water tray.... I suggest anyone that has a water bed to use something other than metal...... It will make you much happier in the long run.....

[Dustin407]

Regarding a holding tank, does anybody have an access hole on their tank? Is it needed? I am wondering if it woud have a benifit or just pose another leak point. I will put 10psi of pressure on this tank to force the water out and up into the tray via two 2.5" hoses/ball valves.

WSS

I have a 3" hole on the side and bottom of my tank. I installed a bulkhead fitting which goes to another external tank to regulate water height. I would add one if I was you because they do come in handy for water tray drainage, water height etc..... bulkheads are pretty much leak proof so...

[WSS]

Dustan, I understood the tray would be fiberglass. What I am unsure of is how it handles heat. I really don't have any knowledge of the way fiberglass works or how to use it properly. I appreciate your response for just this reason.

Our tray is nine inches deep and the slats are 4" X 3/16". I do not have a system to curve the slats so sometimes I have 6 to 8 inch gaps were parts fall through. The tray is 12ga but dry, no water. It is warped very bad.I cut some 1" AR500 often that I need to cool as soon as they are cut, I have to use a steel five gallon bucket because it will melt through the bottom of plastic even when full, the water cannot pull the heat away fast enough. So that is why I wonder about fiberglass, Our table is 170" long by 84" wide, what do you think? I can support with steel underneath. I did a search for the bulkheads, do you have a picture of one? I scanned through ebay and found 1" or less.

Thanks!
WSS

PS, can steel be glassed over? Does that make sense? I want to get it right this time.

[BESRK]

I just shot my whole water table with Rustoleum "Cold Galvanizing Compound". Did it about a month ago and filled it with about 100gal of home made Plasma Quench. My table is 4" deep, I run a PM1250 and usually only cut up to about 1/2" material. I've gotten the water hot enough to be uncomfortable to dip your hand in. The paint has held up great.

[Dustin407]

Our tray is nine inches deep and the slats are 4" X 3/16". I do not have a system to curve the slats so sometimes I have 6 to 8 inch gaps were parts fall through. The tray is 12ga but dry, no water. It is warped very bad.I cut some 1" AR500 often that I need to cool as soon as they are cut, I have to use a steel five gallon bucket because it will melt through the bottom of plastic even when full, the water cannot pull the heat away fast enough. So that is why I wonder about fiberglass, Our table is 170" long by 84" wide, what do you think? I can support with steel underneath. I did a search for the bulkheads, do you have a picture of one? I scanned through ebay and found 1" or less.

.

WSS,

Do you have a water table?? You said ur tray was dry with no water. I think in your case you can make the watertable deeper maybe 16"-24" to help regulate heat, but put a screen at the bottom of your slats so the parts dont fall 2' you will never find them...lol Mine is 5" deep and can barely find drops.... You can also add an external tank with a pump to circulate waterflow from your cutting tank to your external tank ( just like a cooling system on a car the external tank would be like the radiator to help cool things down). As for the fiberglass tank, yes i would support it with many steel braces underneath because the dimensions u gave me your table probably weighs 2500 lb filled up. yes the glass would be good for heat if done properly, the only thing it could delaminate, become brittle,crack over time if got too hot... Here is a couple picks of my table and external tank (100 gallon plastic cylinder in yellow). I have a submersible pump in the external tank to regulate water height and drainage very quickly.... The gray bulkhead I have connected to the alum. tray, I believe it is a 2" BH but downsized the threads to get to a 1" pvc pipe...

[adscnc]

Hi Dustin
I too have the holes appearing in my aluminium water table. So it is the steel rusting that's causing the holes. Do you get the white mushrooms appearing where the corrosion is taking place? Have you made a fibre glass tray ? How Is it performing? I thought the sodium nitrite would stop the corrosion happening?

[awemawson]

It is an electrolytic reaction between the steel and the aluminium in the presence of water. The two metals being 1.22v apart in the electrochemical series form an electrical potential between them which causes the oxidisation;

the electrochemical series

[Dustin407]

Hi Dustin
I too have the holes appearing in my aluminium water table. So it is the steel rusting that's causing the holes. Do you get the white mushrooms appearing where the corrosion is taking place? Have you made a fibre glass tray ? How Is it performing? I thought the sodium nitrite would stop the corrosion happening?

Hi adscnc, Yes it is called galvanic corrosion. When two different metals touch each other that are not close in similarity, one metal will steel the other metals powers...lol sounds like a comic book.. So in our case the steel is taking away from the alum. Not to worry something needs to be installed at the bottom of the tank to keep the two metals from touching.. I ordered thin sheets of rubber mating that will be adhered to the top of alum. This shall fix this problem very fast. It doesnt have to be rubber it can be wood glass etc.... anything that makes a gap between the two...