[winegar]

Hey guys... I'm want to change my current setup on my plasma table from the hand torch to a machine torch.... This way i don't have this big handle sticking out and in the way... not the mention it will/should be more sturdy closer to the Z... I have a Harbor Freight cutter that is working great... however, it does not have any quick change hose mounts, and connections on the outer case... I have to take the case off to make my connections with the new torch... I don't mind cutting and soldiering my connections... Just want to make sure i get a torch i can use... that is not $1,000!!!....

This cutter does NOT have to contact the metal to start cutting... Can I use one of these or do you guys have any better ideas???... Thanks a bunch, Winegar!

SG-55 AG-60 Air Plasma Cutting machine torch 60A 12Feet - eBay (item 200606481590 end time Jun-07-11 23:40:11 PDT)

P-80A PANASONIC Air plasma cutter machine torch 12 FEET - eBay (item 400073560130 end time Jun-07-11 17:44:45 PDT)

[cobretti]

I think the P80 is for HF start cutters. If that is the one you need you can get it from aliexpress for $76 and free shipping. I am looking for one with euro connector.

The Trafimet machine torch even sourced from China is still $395!!! Why are these so expensive when they do not look any much different other than lack of a curve?

[winegar]

Well I just found this... as to figure out what type of Plasma unit i have and what the hell to call it!...lol...

The HF Contact type uses a high-frequency, high-voltage spark to ionize the air through the torch head and initiate an arc. These require the torch to be in contact with the job material when starting, and so are not suitable for applications involving CNC cutting.

The Pilot Arc type uses a two cycle approach to producing plasma, avoiding the need for initial contact. First, a high-voltage, low current circuit is used to initialize a very small high-intensity spark within the torch body, thereby generating a small pocket of plasma gas. This is referred to as the pilot arc. The pilot arc has a return electrical path built into the torch head. The pilot arc will maintain itself until it is brought into proximity of the workpiece where it ignites the main plasma cutting arc.

Okay.... Mine is Pilot Arc.... So, I'm guessing just any ol' cutter will not work.... Is there a way to tell what type of machine torch it is, without asking someone in China?....:-D ....

[Jimmystractor]

I'm in the same boat. I need to make my HF cutter a quick change. There have been a few that went under $300 on eBay in the last couple months. Do you have a friend with a lathe? you just need a straight case cut from plastic that you can fit the guts from your S45 into. If I get mine done- or if I do it myself, I'll be sure to include you and/or mail out a shell in appreciation of your most inspirational thread.

[winegar]

I'm in the same boat. I need to make my HF cutter a quick change. There have been a few that went under $300 on eBay in the last couple months. Do you have a friend with a lathe? you just need a straight case cut from plastic that you can fit the guts from your S45 into. If I get mine done- or if I do it myself, I'll be sure to include you and/or mail out a shell in appreciation of your most inspirational thread.

I never though about that!... I would just have to straighten the tube out and slip it all in... however, I would like to keep the hand torch as well... might come in handy, hand cutting stuff from time to time... There is a set on ebay I'm pretty convinced to buy for around $100, made by Panasonic.... And it is in fact made for Pilot Arc Cutters like ours!... Here is a link!: P-80A PANASONIC Air plasma cutter machine torch 12 FEET - eBay (item 400073560130 end time Aug-06-11 17:44:45 PDT) I'm sure i can make up a coupling for the air hose to attach to the inside of the cutter... (bulkhead fitting) so this way i can change from the hand torch to the machine torch... as well as the 2 pin plug (seen them for sale on ebay as well)... and some type of bulkhead fitting for the torch line......
It is summer time and have so much stuff going on right now!..lol... I do have a lathe as well!... Great idea though!

[Jimmystractor]

Just in case I wasn't clear- I was not talking about straightening your HF(I meant harbor freight- not high freq) red handle out with heat. Since you don't need the trigger, you could turn a cylinder of plastic(boring operation) down to exactly the size you need to fit the internals of your torch. I'm not so concerned about looks- I'd rather get it into a clean 1.5" tube that could mount in 2 clean clamps about 4" apart on the Z. I don't want to bend the brass tube to sharp- just enough to get it back into the 1.5" diameter before the upper clamp- I'm OK with having a hump in the plastic for the brass tube to curve back to a more centered position. Just turn some plastic on your lathe to the same dims that hold the torch head. I may put an 8" piece of 1.5" schedule 40 in the lathe and see if I can "squeeze" it down with some heat and who knows what. Maybe like 50rpm in back gear. I really don't know what I will wind up with, but I know I don't like the handle sticking out like it does. I'm sure you will probably post a clean solution before I do. The eBay link looks nice. If that was the same type torch had the same consumables, I'd be with you 100% on it. Some may think the blue HF is a cheap plasma, but I think it is more than just a good value. I like the consumables/torch and how it gives a cleaner cut after 500 starts than the CUT40 does with new consumables. I'm on the lookout for a hobart or trafimet with the same consumables so I can swap out easily when I need to cut up an old tractor.

[cwalker1960]

I am with everyone here ,, why is so hard to get information about which torch we can use,,, I have an esab powercut 1500... the machine torch for it from esab is over $1100.00 .. there has to be an alternative but how is one supposed to figure out what will work??? and why in the world does it cost $700.00 to straighten out the torch??,, as best i can tell from the manual it even uses the same consumables..

and I have taken mine apart and the very end is made inside a molded plastic body ,,, really don't have the heart to destroy a $400.00 torch to see if I can make it straight..