[kiwichris]

Way cool....

:banana:

[nigelkdx200]

Where did you get your magnets from?

Cheers, Me.

Hi kiwichris, you can also get the magnets from Dangerous Magnets NZ. I've bought heaps from him off Trademe and I'm using magnets for my dust shoe as well.

[kiwichris]

Hi kiwichris, you can also get the magnets from Dangerous Magnets NZ. I've bought heaps from him off Trademe and I'm using magnets for my dust shoe as well.

Cool...

There is something very neat about stupidly strong magnets. :-)

You're using the 6x2.5m ones for the shoe I'm guessing?

[nigelkdx200]

I'm using the 10x1.5mm ones but either size is fine as long as you use enough of them.

[P.Passuello]

Hi Josh,

Nice build.
I have one of Kent's dust shoes and was luck to watch his development of it. It is a great addition to my machine and I couldn't do without it. Your one looks really nice.
I was wondering how do you hold it to the spindle. I see what looks like 4 screw holes in the top piece so assume it is permanently screwed to the bottom spindle clamp.

Cheers
Peter

[CNC Lurker]

That's a great looking dust shoe!

[joshendy]

Cheers guys. Yep Peter you're exactly right, it bolts in with 4 bolts into the spindle mount. Theres been a bit of an issue with doing that though and thats the flexible brush I brought is a little too thick. When I lower my Z axis the brush resists so much that the shoe ends up pushing the HDPE spindle mount on an angle. I really need to get my aluminium version of my spindle mount done.

In the mean time I'm still hunting around for some clear vinyl shower curtain type material for make a dust skirt out of. It wont work as good as the brush but until I can find a better more flexible brush or get a much stronger spindle mount I can't really use my existing dust skirt.

But this is the very nice thing about the dust shoe. I can just mill out a bunch of dust skirts and mount any type of material to them I want.

[PaulRowntree]

I tried carpet runner but it was too flimsy, and got pushed into the under-shoe area too easily.
I then bought some thick neoprene type material (~3-4 mm thick) at a local textile shop (about $5 for enough to make 5 skirts), wrapped it around the shoe and cut slits in it every 3-5 cm. I am pretty pleased with it. It stapled well to my wooden shoe, but I expect it would glue/epoxy to acrylic just as well.
Your design is very nice (and the see through plastic is great) but I would like to make mine smaller, so the footprint is not larger than the spindle to avoid interference with clamps etc. One design here on the forum was a modified carburetor cap (I think) with the brush in a tighter circle around the tool, and the hose attaching at a 45 degree angle upwards.

[Dman65]

Hello Josh,

Can you provide any details on how you assembled your machine? Did you use any special "tricks" to keep everything parallel and square? Did you use your drill press to make all of your parts, or did you use your CNC? Some of the parts have slots rather than holes, so I was wondering if you cut them on the CNC or somehow used a drill press.

I just finished building a CNC router out of wood a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, with the changes in humidity and temperature around here I am having to recalibrate it pretty much every weekend when I go to use it and I would like to get something more stable built.

[joshendy]

PaulRowntree

Yea its really nice to be able to see through the dust shoe so that I can keep a close eye on the cutting. I really worry about the tool crashing sometimes so I like that I can keep an eye on it during cutting. I might try stick a super bright white LED under there so I can see when I've got the brush skirt attached on there.

Right I know the one you're talking about, little cap that fits around the tool. I'd imagine it would be really hard to get something like that to effectively catch all the dust but it would be fantastic to only have such a small dust shoe which doesnt get in the way of much anything.


Dman65

Squaring the machine was a right headache, probably the worst part of the entire build. Obviously its such an important thing to get right, so I had to spend ages getting it right. In the end its still not perfect but I put a sharpie on there a while ago and drew a 400mm square and taking a diagonal measurement from point to point on either side produced the same distance. Which I'm fairly sure is an indicator is fairly square.

Got a bit side tracked there but yea to square the machine I just used a bubble level, ruler and tape. I moved and adjusted every part of the machine until I was happy it was as square as I could get it. The wost part was squaring the axes, mainly the X axis to the Z axis. I used a square and eye balled it. Ended up taking me about 3 weeks to be in a position where I was happy with it. Extremely frustrating without the correct tools, and I'm not even too sure what the correct tools would be... Perhaps a laser level.

I only used the drill press to drill the holes for the machine. I used my old MDF router to CNC all of the HDPE plastic parts you see. I managed to just get my old MDF CNC running well enough that the plastic parts came out quite nice and accurate. The slots you see in some of the parts were indeed done on the CNC and gave me the ability to slide and adjust various components like the bearing mounts.

Drill press was still very important in this build but in terms of making my bearing mounts for my leadscrews and my other HDPE components I really needed CNC accuracy.

Cheers,
Josh

[Dman65]

Thanks for the insights Josh. I guess it is nice to know I am not the only one that has had difficulties with that portion of the assembly.

[PaulRowntree]

Odd thing ... I was in CanadianTire today, and in the ShopVac section they had small brushes for 1.25" hoses, with the connection coming off at 45 degrees. It was really, really close to what I wanted for a show. Time to put the thinking cap on ... if only I could find it.

[Kent23]

Arrrr, cool.

The machine I've got coming has a dust shoe that some folks have said is a pain when it comes to changing bits so I might have to make something similar.

I remember seeing that KentCNC video before but read on the forums here that he wont ship outside the US??

Although, I've got a pile of 10mm Acrylic here, and I know where to get the brushes now. :-).

Where did you get your magnets from?

Cheers, Me.

Yes, I ship outside the U.S. I ship USPS priority mail. To order a dust shoe, visit KentCNC

Sorry about such a delayed response. I just read this thread.

Kent

[joshendy]

Just bit of an update. I've been having issues with my collets for my Kress 1050 spindle. I brought some unofficial 3rd party collets which stated they were for Kress spindles. However unlike my official collets these ones dont click into the clamping nut like my "real" ones do.

I've done a few cuts with the collets but because they don't click into the clamping nut when it comes time to take the tool out it ends up stuck in the Kress and I have to clamp the tool and rotate until I can pull the tool out. Not a nice way to change tools!

I brought a clamping nut from the same guy I got the unofficial Kress collets from in hopes that might be a better fit. However the results are the same, the collets dont click in. If I place the collet in the clamping nut then slide a tool into the collet, it expands the collet a very tiny amount and the collet does then grab the eccentric ring inside the clamping nut.

I am able to take the tool out now and it doesnt get stuck but the tiny amount of material the collet is holding on to will wear away as the force of pulling a collet out is enough to drag the collet as it rotates out through the clamping nut. This is what happened on my original clamping nut.

Here is a link to the ebay store I purchased the collets from:
Spring collet for Kress miling motors 4.0mm - new items in Alles Gute Shop store on eBay!

As you can see hes selling them as Kress collets. I haven't been able to get much help from the seller. I'll post some pictures of the collets I brought from him and my official ones and that might help. My official ones have a slot cut out at the bottom so they can be pinched to release them from the clamping nut. The unofficial ones I brought do not have this.

I hope that makes sense. If anyone has heard of this issue before or has any ideas I'd love to hear them, I'm a bit worried that these collets just wont end up working.

Heres a quick video I did of my CNC out of bordem It's just the machine running some code doing an air cut.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=je_mx0j-06E]CNC Router test run - YouTube[/ame]

Cheers,
Josh

[nigelkdx200]

Just bit of an update. I've been having issues with my collets for my Kress 1050 spindle. I brought some unofficial 3rd party collets which stated they were for Kress spindles. However unlike my official collets these ones dont click into the clamping nut like my "real" ones do.

I've done a few cuts with the collets but because they don't click into the clamping nut when it comes time to take the tool out it ends up stuck in the Kress and I have to clamp the tool and rotate until I can pull the tool out. Not a nice way to change tools!

Cheers,
Josh

Hi Josh, I've been using the Kress 1050 FME for the last few months and I really like this spindle. I purchased a couple of extra nuts and they all work perfectly! I just undo them and keep going until they loosen the collett so that I can remove the bit by hand. I bought them from
DamenCNC.com - KRESS Milling Motor
I originally bought my Kress 1050 FME spindle from them and then bought the additional nuts and colletts later. I found them terrific to deal with so I continue to buy from Kress stuff from damencnc.com. I also bought spare brushes from them to minimise downtime. Cheers, Gordon

[LouF]

Nice looking machine and a good build thread with lots of pics I like the dust shoe great setup..

[joshendy]

Hi Josh, I've been using the Kress 1050 FME for the last few months and I really like this spindle. I purchased a couple of extra nuts and they all work perfectly! I just undo them and keep going until they loosen the collett so that I can remove the bit by hand. I bought them from
DamenCNC.com - KRESS Milling Motor
I originally bought my Kress 1050 FME spindle from them and then bought the additional nuts and colletts later. I found them terrific to deal with so I continue to buy from Kress stuff from damencnc.com. I also bought spare brushes from them to minimise downtime. Cheers, Gordon

Hi Gordon. Cheers for the link, I've been there before but couldn't bring myself to pay like $45 NZD per collet? I think thats what it works out to. Thats why I brought the ones from ebay, they only ended up costing ~$25.

Nice looking machine and a good build thread with lots of pics I like the dust shoe great setup..

Cheers for the compliment!

[kiwichris]

I've been there before but couldn't bring myself to pay like $45 NZD per collet? I think thats what it works out to. Thats why I brought the ones from ebay, they only ended up costing ~$25.

Yikes! You can get a good quality set of 13 ER11 collets for $45 NZ ($32 US)

I'm picking this is one of those things you don't realise till you've got the spindle already. Is the shaft replaceable in the kress? You could drop in an ER11 or ER16 compatible shaft maybe?

Just a random thought, at that sort of cost it's going to add up over the life of the spindle.

Cheers, Me.

[kiwibrick]

Hmmm I think I might have to invest in one of these Kress spindles to supplement my router for cutting smaller stuff, I've had a really hard time finding a spindle/router that has collets available for the smaller tools in 240V and not ridiculously expensive.

[nigelkdx200]

[QUOTE=joshendy;1016505] I've been there before but couldn't bring myself to pay like $45 NZD per collet? I think thats what it works out to. Thats why I brought the ones from ebay, they only ended up costing ~$25.QUOTE]

I know that they are dearer than the ebay ones. However if you're having so much trouble getting bits out then how much is it going to cost you if you accidentally damage your spindle one day trying to remove a bit?

For me having a high quality collett means that I know that the bit is well clamped and that the runout is minimal which equates to good machining.

They charge 18 Euro for a collett and nut. So that's both bits for $31 NZ. Not sure of freight cost?