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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    0

    Talking Design and Build

    New machine I'm currently underway with...

    This is my first but I've been an avid CNC spectator for some time now...

    The machine will have a foot print of 1220x 1800... Still needs a little refining but I'm fairly happy with my design...

    Comments and expertise welcome...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC Router 1.jpg   CNC Router 2.jpg   CNC Router 3.jpg   CNC Router 4.jpg  

    CNC Router 5.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    853
    Congratulations on the start! What materials will you be using to build the gantry supports? What is the Z range?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    0

    Talking

    Hey Paul...
    Thanks on the congrats... I've been an avid spectator for far too long... Time to play...
    I've chose a solid aluminum construction... Basically its all constructed of Aluminum PFC... An Extruded beam...

    The main X Axis will be supported by 150x75mm PFC's and the gantry itself out of 200x75 PFC...
    Rigidity and accuracy is what I'm aiming for...
    Its very simple too... Only about 20 parts in the total structure...
    I'll send the PFC's out and get ways machined into them and at crucial intersections then bolt it altogether...

    As it stands
    X = 1820
    Y = 1220
    Z = 120

    This will allow me to cut 1200x1800 with a 10mm bit for a maximum cut...
    Fingers crossed it'll work...
    Stay tuned...!:idea::devious::stickpoke
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC Router with stand 1.jpg   CNC Router with stand.jpg  

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    1778
    Actually it should allow 1210mmx1810mm. You only lose 1/2 the diameter at the limits, so cutting both sides you would lose 2 * (10mm/2) or 10mm.
    Alan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    0
    I allowed a little extra built in as I've still yet to receive the specs on the linear bearings I'm looking at...
    The z axis needs some more refining... It may end up a little wider thus reducing the cutting area...
    I'll probably jack it up to and increase the overall length as the extra height between the bed and the underside of the gantry will probably be benficial when raising the work peice off the bed...
    I'm currently ordering parts in for the controller... Refining my design as I wait...
    I'm awaiting a response from PMDX in regards to their 126 bob and 133 gecko bob... Steve Stalling from PMDX mentioned they are revising their 126 bob to enable slaving... The more I read about their boards, the more I'm impressed by them... It sounds like they are well versed at industrial retrofits using their own boards...
    I'm a tradesman so I have a certain tendancy to ensure everything I purchase is of industrial standards...
    I'll be looking into a Super PID router controller in conjunction with a PMDX 107 till I scratch up the cash for a true spindle and VSD...
    I've got my motors and 3 gecko 203V's with another 2 on their way... Keling Inc are shipping the 50V 20amp unreg power supply...
    With the aussie dollar doing so well its making it cheaper... But talk to me when its up and running... Heehee... But I got the geckos for 85AUD... Pretty sweet.... Considering the retail for $150ish... Hence upping to PMDX Boards rather than the cheaper ones...
    Anyways...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I'll be looking into a Super PID router controller in conjunction with a PMDX 107
    You don't need the PMDX 107 with the SuperPID.

    2 output pins from the parallel port will give you on/off and rpm control for the SuperPID. I control my SuperPID directly from the parallel port, without even using a breakout board.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    0
    I am new to Forum , just joined yesterday, and am impressed on how much help and knowledge is accessable. You design looks great. My only comments are I prefer a steel subframe for weight and rigity. You may want to look at some of the Chinese machines (Ebay and the internet)for ideas such as the Jcut 6090B or DW-6015 machines . Theirs has a cast iron base and are very cheap to import. It is very cheap to build a 2/ 2-1/2" tubing frame to have a very rigid frame to mount your Aluminum components to. The top could be a 12ga. or so steel 48" x 96" plate with all the necessary mounting holes cut off a laser.
    I dont quite understand your guide system but I would recommed using no less than 25mm sq. guide hardened rails and linear bearings . These are very cheap these days and I recommed Automation Overstock, surplus automation equipment, overstock automation devices, manufacturer overruns, linear bearings, variable speed drives, circuit breakers, contactors, starters, relays . You wont believe their prices on Hiwin HD Rails.
    If my comments dont make sense to you application its mainly because I am new to the current designs or CNC Routers. Good luck. Hubert, North Carolina

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    0
    I had considered this at first and running the Super PID straight from the 126... I'm no electrician but the 107 provides an isolated source... I don't know if its smart choice... But figured trying to consider future upgrades... VSD and Spindle...
    I wanna try and future proof it...
    Hence Keling's larger powersupply for future axis's
    Considering postage to Australia is the same as the cost of a 107 I thought id get it along with my other purchases...
    Plus itd look cool... Hehe...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by hjcraver View Post
    I am new to Forum , just joined yesterday, and am impressed on how much help and knowledge is accessable. You design looks great. My only comments are I prefer a steel subframe for weight and rigity. You may want to look at some of the Chinese machines (Ebay and the internet)for ideas such as the Jcut 6090B or DW-6015 machines . Theirs has a cast iron base and are very cheap to import. It is very cheap to build a 2/ 2-1/2" tubing frame to have a very rigid frame to mount your Aluminum components to. The top could be a 12ga. or so steel 48" x 96" plate with all the necessary mounting holes cut off a laser.
    I dont quite understand your guide system but I would recommed using no less than 25mm sq. guide hardened rails and linear bearings . These are very cheap these days and I recommed Automation Overstock, surplus automation equipment, overstock automation devices, manufacturer overruns, linear bearings, variable speed drives, circuit breakers, contactors, starters, relays . You wont believe their prices on Hiwin HD Rails.
    If my comments dont make sense to you application its mainly because I am new to the current designs or CNC Routers. Good luck. Hubert, North Carolina
    Gday craver...
    Welcome to the forum... Thanks for your comments... I really haven't settled on the base of the thing at the moment... I drew up that cabinet under it as an idea...
    I agree, a steel frame will probably be the go under the machine... Probably something in the vicinity of 2.5"x2.5"... When will you US guys convert to the metric system...!!! Give up your wicked ways... Haha
    I'll definitely check out your link tho... Cheers for that...
    Im a bit dubious about the Chinese machines.... I think building it will be half the fun and challenge... Cast iron would be great but considering my circumstances would be a pain in the ass...
    Cheers for your thoughts...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    0
    I am a Q.C inspector for Industrial and Laboratory Furnace and Oven Manufacturer | Thermcraft Inc. and I use metric but our shop standard is Mr,Dewey.
    Just for dreaming look at a few of these base suppliers . I agree with you the fun is designing and building. See Ya.

    http://www.americangrinding.com/divi...akesbases.com/


    Durant Tool Company :: Online Catalog : Machine Bases

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    142
    Looks like a nice clean build, can't wait to see some real action with pictures.
    Will be watching your progress, hope it all works out ok, there's plenty of guys on this forum to help you out.

    Cheers mkc2

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    0

    Question DEsign Aspects...?

    Its been a while since i last posted... I'm still designing...

    I have a quick query for anyone out there in the realm of design willing to comment...

    How much clearance would be adequate between the bed and the underside of the gantry... :idea:

    I suppose this comes down to the sort of work I'll be doing... However... Too tall equals less rigidity and less accuracy... The lower the gantry is to the bed will make an increase the machines rigidity and accuracy but will limit the machines ability for certain things...
    I do intend on creating a 4th axis that can be turned 90 degrees for turning as well as rotary milling... Kinda like a CNC Converted Vertex Rotary Table with a chuck...

    I just want to get some ideas off those guys who have come across this in their machining and if they were "to do it all again" approach...

    Comments greatly recieved...!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    As I'm doing it again right now, 4"-6" should be more than enough clearance above your work surface (spoilboard).

    Of course, the location of the 4th axis may affect this. Ideally, you'd want the center line of the 4th axis on the same plane as the worksurface. THIS Requires lowering it into the bed, or mounting it outboard. Otherwise, you're sacrificing rigidity to accommodate the 4th axis.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    0

    Lightbulb 4th Axis Integration...? Suggestions please!

    Thanks Gerry...

    Yeah I can see what you mean by loosing rigidity...Would I be correct in saying that the center line of the 4 Axis should be the Z Axis extent..? That is if I was using the 4 Axis in the horizontal position...

    I guess I should try and explain what I'm trying to achieve...
    I'd like to create a 4th Axis...
    The 4th Axis can be used in either the Horizontal (Lathe Mode) or Vertical (Rotary Milling Table Mode...)

    Firstly... I'm not trying to achieve the same capacity of a lathe... Probably only 75mm in Diameter max... Which will lend itself towards using a 3" chuck...
    Think of a mini lathe bolted into the table...

    In its vertical position it'll be used create compound curved surfaces or angled milling cuts...

    Any suggestions on incorporating such an axis...? Height and travel of Z Axis seems to be the key...
    I could make a secondary bed below the table Height that is lower again then pack/Jack up the 4th Axis as required for increased flexibility...
    Anyone got any ideas...?
    Or have achieved such a setup...? :ideagroup)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    0

    Question Balls Screw Lead...?

    Anyone got suggestions on the Lead of Ball Screws that should be used...

    I'm looking at purchasing 16mm Dia Screws with a lead of 5mm... But I have the choice between a 5mm lead or a 10mm lead...
    I read in an article from Cncroutersource.com that a larger lead is better... Typically for the stepper motors as most torque is developed at lower speed... But if my math is correct at 3000RPM without gearing, with a lead of 10mm that equals a possible top speed of 30000mm per minute...

    30m/min sounds horribly fast...! Thats almost 2km/hr! Is that too fast..? with a 5mm Lead its 15000mm/min... Or 15m/min...

    I could gear this down to 2:1 but would defeat purchasing 10mm Lead Ball screws...
    Any Suggestions??
    (group)

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    10mm lead is the better option.

    You'll never be able to use a stepper at 3000 rpm. Depending on motors and drives, the maximum usable rpm will probably be somewhere between 800-1200 rpm. 10m/min, or 400ipm.


    Would I be correct in saying that the center line of the 4 Axis should be the Z Axis extent..?
    I'd allow the Z axis, with the shortest tool you'll be using, to go maybe 10-20mm lower than the 4th axis centerline. Just in case.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    0
    Cheers again Gerry!!

    You're a wealth of knowledge...
    Would you still use a 10mm lead on the Z axis..?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    hmmmm.... not sure. Actually, yes. I'm using 1/2-8 4 start acme for the Z on my new machine, which has a lead of 12.7mm.

    Just don't skimp on the motors. The Z may require the same size motors as the X and Y. A lot of people think the Z can get away with a smaller motor, but that's often not the case.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    409
    Quote Originally Posted by Eddymeister View Post
    Cheers again Gerry!!

    You're a wealth of knowledge...
    Would you still use a 10mm lead on the Z axis..?
    Be aware that if you do use a ballscrew on your Z axis you may need a brake to keep the Z from dropping when the motor is powered off.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Phife View Post
    Be aware that if you do use a ballscrew on your Z axis you may need a brake to keep the Z from dropping when the motor is powered off.
    I'll keep that in mind thanks Phife...

    I've already purchased a Nema 34 640 oz inch for all axis... The X axis will have 2 due to the machines size...

    I'll keep my eyes peeled for 10mm Screws...
    Thanks fellas...

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