[dfmiller]

I figured I should start a new thread on what I am doing with my router since it's in a different phase.
It's not finished but I am now using it and uncovering things that I need to do better in the future.

Yes I am the cause of most of my problems :-)

I need to get a better system to hold work down. To date I have been using the simplest and crudest hold down method.

Screws into the spoil board.

I have discovered that it works great but you must be very careful not to cut into the screws. Especially the green coated deck screws. They are very hard.


I was surprised that it bent the shank of the 1/4" bit.

As far as I can tell it did not miss any steps. I guess my motor have enough torque..
Dave

[WillsCNC]

We all learn the hard way....... I have had similar problems. Soon it will be second nature on how to mount your work.

Will

[dfmiller]

I cant remember if you told me how you mount your stuff most of the time?
Dave

[WillsCNC]

Dave,

I'll take a picture after lunch and send to you. Better than 1000 words.....

Will

[WillsCNC]

Pictures of how I hold down

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[dfmiller]

Will,
Thanks those are good ideas.
I am trying to figure out the best way to have a spoil board and and access to all my T slots. Its a shame to cover them all up with a spoil board like I am.

Thanks
Dave

[WillsCNC]

Dave,

The only way I can think of is to have slots in your spoil board. Maybe not every groove but say every couple of ones. The slots would have to stop short of both ends to keep in together.

Will

[dfmiller]

Will,
That's exactly what I was thinking of trying.
I will have to try that on my next spoil board. This would involve drilling and tapping some holes in the T Slot table. I have not decided on which option yet.
The only other idea I had was to make a whole bunch of spoil strip I count mount on each rails and make the replaceable. Then I could change the ones that are worn and surface the table after I change them.

Dave

[dfmiller]

Will,
For giggles today I set up a dial indicator in my spindle and had a look at how flat my table is. I have not surfaced it yet but that's on my to do list.
I am trying to decide which bit to use or get for the occasion.

In the Y it was less than 0.005" side to side. That's acceptable for me
The X had a dip in the middle of about 0.040". I think I might add and extra support to hold the T slot up. that was a little more than I was expecting. I have not taken the spoil board off but I expect the Tslot is the issue.

With the dip in the middle and I am working on small stuff that explains why when I do a profile cut the depth is not consistent.


Dave

[WillsCNC]

Dave,

I am not surprised but am with you having the t slot table top. You can now understand why I am adding supports to my table. I think if you have time and are able we should talk talk later on Wed. I'm gone in the morning to get more parts for mine but will back before it's to late there. E mail later. There is a bunch of things we can talk about......

Will

[dfmiller]

Here is the first project that is worth showing.


It was created in Vcarve Pro with some vector art from Vector Art.com for the border.
Material was Poplar.
Used a 60 degree and a 1/4" uncut.
Some fine tuning of the feeds is required but some work with some sandpaper will deal with the fuzz. It's been turned over to youngest daughter for some painting.
It's going to end up at a baby shower this weekend.

VCarve is amazing.

Just an update on the build. Dust shoe has arrived. 2/3 of the dust collector is here the rest has been located and should arrive early next week. Purolator got some of the letters in the destination right. But I would of thought most people could figure out SURREY and SUDBURY are two different places. They got 66.6 percent right.

Still waiting for information on leadscrew backlash for XYZ Gantry.

I did move limit switch wiring around and Z and Y axis share same input now.
I now have a spare input for a tool height setter or touchpad.

Dave

[ger21]

Dave, it's very hard to cut poplar without it fuzzing. Use the sharpest bits you have with poplar.
For crisper results, try maple or birch.

[dfmiller]

Thanks Gerry,
It was an experiment. No chipping which I was happy with. The V carve bit was new. It had cut just version 1 of the sign so it was about as new as possible. The 1/4 is fairly new.

I can try some birch or maple. For Maple I assume Eastern not Western.

I have a piece of Meranti which I will try to butcher up today for another project.


Thanks for you guidance Gerry. I will eventually figure it all out. ;-)

Dave

[dfmiller]

Here is the hunk of Meranti after the cutting is finished.
Finished size is about 11x18.


Its got some fuzz but that cleaned up with a scraper.

A couple of coats of Watco Danish Oil.
Probably a quick buff with some Steel wool.

It took about 50 minutes to cut this. Machine ran without a hiccup. Things are getting better.

[dfmiller]

Here it is after some careful painting by my youngest daughter and a coat of spray shellac.



Dave

[boblon]

Dave, you daughter did a very nice paint job there.

Looks good.

BobL.

[dfmiller]

Bob,
Thanks,
She paints much better than I.
Any word on when you machine is arriving?
Dave

[boblon]

On the machine, I got an email that said they 'got the paperwork' and Dave the sales guy asked to verify the mount so I take that to mean it is actively being kitted.

So we are getting closer

BobL.

[dfmiller]

Bob,
That is great news. Sounds like soon you will be starting your build thread.:-)
Dave

[WillsCNC]

Looks good Dave and to know it's working better

Will