[Skiroy]

If you go to the 22 page and the #2 diagram. I need for just 1 red light(I dont have the others) to flash and the alarm 1 to go continuously. Can someone break this down as how to wire it form a +24VDC and -24VDC persepective?

[neilw20]

More information?
Page 22 of what? #22?
Do you have specs on the lamp?

[Skiroy]

More information?
Page 22 of what? #22?
Do you have specs on the lamp?

Sorry I thought the file attached. Here it is as a link on the second page. IT is the SEFB-D AC/DC 12/24V version.

http://www.clickautomation.com/PDF/c...20Complete.pdf

[Skiroy]

bump

[doorknob]

Can you confirm that you have the model SEFB-102D light stack?

My interpretation is as follows:

Connect the +24 volt power supply terminal through a fuse to the Yellow wire.

Connect the minus terminal of the 24-volt supply to the Gray wire.

If you want to flash a Red lamp, connect the Brown wire (through a switch or a transistor or a relay contact) to the Red wire.

If you want to turn on alarm 1, connect the Purple wire (through a switch or a transistor or a relay contact) to the Gray wire.

[Skiroy]

Can you confirm that you have the model SEFB-102D light stack?

My interpretation is as follows:

Connect the +24 volt power supply terminal through a fuse to the Yellow wire.

Connect the minus terminal of the 24-volt supply to the Gray wire.

If you want to flash a Red lamp, connect the Brown wire (through a switch or a transistor or a relay contact) to the Red wire.

If you want to turn on alarm 1, connect the Purple wire (through a switch or a transistor or a relay contact) to the Gray wire.

Well on my light stack it only says SEFB-D but I know its the 24V AC/DC version with alarm (Continuous light or flashing, with Buzzer)

The only thing I want to make sure about is in the manual that comes with my light stack the brown and yellow wires have "COM" on them. Your saying to wire them to +24VDC but doesnt COM indicate -24VDC?

[doorknob]

I can only go by the manual pages that you linked above, which show +24VDC going to the Yellow wire (in the NPN transistor connection diagram at the upper right). That same hookup should work with relay contacts or switches instead of NPN transistors.

If you were using PNP transistors to switch the light and alarm, then the recommended connection would be different.

The Brown wire is shown as having to be connected to the Red wire in order to flash the red light. I did not suggest connecting the Brown wire to +24VDC.

[Skiroy]

Please excuse my ignorance but the wire diagram doesnt state that the wires are + or -. The transistor diagrams to the right do, but from what I see it says that the 24VDC version could be PNP or NPN. How do I know which one it is?

[doorknob]

My interpretation is that those transistor wiring diagrams are just guidance for how to wire up transistors to switch the LEDs and alarms (if you want to use transistors instead of switches or relay contacts to do the switching).

The transistors are not included with the light stick. I believe that the polarity shown for NPN is the way to go even if you are simply using switches or relay contacts to do the switching.

Feel free to get a second opinion from someone else if you have any doubts, though.

[Skiroy]

My interpretation is that those transistor wiring diagrams are just guidance for how to wire up transistors to switch the LEDs and alarms (if you want to use transistors instead of switches or relay contacts to do the switching).

The transistors are not included with the light stick. I believe that the polarity shown for NPN is the way to go even if you are simply using switches or relay contacts to do the switching.

Feel free to get a second opinion from someone else if you have any doubts, though.

Oh so if Im using a timer relay then ignore the transistor diagrams? Okay

Does COM indicate neg voltage or can in mean Pos or neg? I know it doesnt say COM on the Yellow and Brown wires on this diagram but my manual does. Does it matter if you fuse the neg connection vs the positive?

I only ask because my diagram has the yellow wire fused but says COM, and the gray wire says just gray?

[doorknob]

The documentation that you have provided is ambiguous at best, and so I am forced to make some guesses. But my guess (explained below) is that it may actually not make any difference which way you hook it up(!).

Judging by the transistor switch connection diagrams, if I had to guess it would be that maybe each LED module either has a pair of LEDs wired back to back, or else has some other circuit arrangement (such as a diode bridge rectifier) to make the operation of the light insensitive to the polarity of the power supply. Supposedly some LED lamps have such circuitry already built in. Otherwise I do not understand how you could wire it up in the way that they have shown for both NPN and PNP transistors.

So it may actually be OK to hook it up either way. I would still prefer to hook it up as shown in the NPN transistor switching configuration (because that way I don't need to twist my brain into contortions).

As for which lead to put the fuse in, typically I would put the fuse inline with the positive lead. Oftentimes the negative lead is connected directly to an earth ground, and in that configuration having the fuse in the positive lead will permit the fuse to blow if there is a short circuit from the positive lead to ground. I don't think that you should be concerned about blowing the fuse for normal operation, because you are dealing with very small operating currents.

But if you kept both power supply terminals isolated from earth ground, then I suppose that you could put the fuse in the negative line (as is shown in the PNP connection diagram).

I hope that makes some sense.

[Skiroy]

The documentation that you have provided is ambiguous at best, and so I am forced to make some guesses. But my guess (explained below) is that it may actually not make any difference which way you hook it up(!).

Judging by the transistor switch connection diagrams, if I had to guess it would be that maybe each LED module either has a pair of LEDs wired back to back, or else has some other circuit arrangement (such as a diode bridge rectifier) to make the operation of the light insensitive to the polarity of the power supply. Supposedly some LED lamps have such circuitry already built in. Otherwise I do not understand how you could wire it up in the way that they have shown for both NPN and PNP transistors.

So it may actually be OK to hook it up either way. I would still prefer to hook it up as shown in the NPN transistor switching configuration (because that way I don't need to twist my brain into contortions).

As for which lead to put the fuse in, typically I would put the fuse inline with the positive lead. Oftentimes the negative lead is connected directly to an earth ground, and in that configuration having the fuse in the positive lead will permit the fuse to blow if there is a short circuit from the positive lead to ground. I don't think that you should be concerned about blowing the fuse for normal operation, because you are dealing with very small operating currents.

But if you kept both power supply terminals isolated from earth ground, then I suppose that you could put the fuse in the negative line (as is shown in the PNP connection diagram).

I hope that makes some sense.

I hate when these companies give you a manual with 6 different schematics for 6 different models that have similar model number configurations, inorder to save money. This is so freaking confusing. I guess Im going to just keep myself from going insane or messing something up and just have the red light come on continuously. I mean even if I can figure out how to wire it right, it still sounds like I have to switch off more than one wire to get the flashing red LED and the Buzzer to come on and off, since they seem to not share the same wires. Let me just ask you this last question and Im over it.

Lets say I have just this light stack and a mechanical not an PLC but a regular relay timer with only one N.O. contact. When the timer switches on after 10secs I want the Red LED to start flashing and the Buzzer 1 to come on. What wire or wires that are of the same polarity (that can be connected together) can be wired to the N.O. contact on the timer so that when the timer is deenergized, the light stack and buzzer goes off?

[doorknob]

It appears to me that there is a sneaky way to get what you want using only one relay contact. You can get the red light flashing and the alarm buzzer buzzing if you do the following:

1. Connect the Red wire to the Brown wire.

2. Connect the Purple wire to the Gray wire.

3. Connect the Gray wire to the - terminal of your 24 volt power supply.

4. Connect the +24 volt power supply wire to one end of the fuse.

5. Connect a wire from the other end of the fuse to the Common terminal of the relay.

6. Connect the Yellow wire to the N.O. terminal of the relay.

With those connections in place, whenever the relay is energized, the common terminal of the relay makes contact with the N.O. terminal of the relay, which applies +24 volts DC to the light stack. The light stack is wired such that as long as power is applied to it, the red light will flash and alarm 1 will sound.

[Skiroy]

It appears to me that there is a sneaky way to get what you want using only one relay contact. You can get the red light flashing and the alarm buzzer buzzing if you do the following:

1. Connect the Red wire to the Brown wire.

2. Connect the Purple wire to the Gray wire.

3. Connect the Gray wire to the - terminal of your 24 volt power supply.

4. Connect the +24 volt power supply wire to one end of the fuse.

5. Connect a wire from the other end of the fuse to the Common terminal of the relay.

6. Connect the Yellow wire to the N.O. terminal of the relay.

With those connections in place, whenever the relay is energized, the common terminal of the relay makes contact with the N.O. terminal of the relay, which applies +24 volts DC to the light stack. The light stack is wired such that as long as power is applied to it, the red light will flash and alarm 1 will sound.

Thank you for spelling this out for me. So can Common mean +24 or -24? I only ask because I thought all LEDs are also diodes and I got the Red LED to light up continuously with hooking up the red wire to positive and the yellow to negative. And like I said my yellow says "Yellow Wire Continuous COM" so I assumed it was negative. I didnt think to try it in reverse because I just assumed I had it the only way it would work being that a LED is a diode. But I will try it again.

Regardless what you said to do definitely sounds right and now it makes sense to me. If anything I just may have to switch what you list to be negative and positive around. I will figure something out thankyou.


But can COM mean positive? It seems odd they would fuse the negative terminal off the PSU like they show in my manual? I hope your right and the yellow is positive. It would be so much easier for me.

[doorknob]

While individual LEDs are in fact diodes that must be connected with a specific polarity, my conclusion from reviewing the data that you provided is that either the lamp stack manufacturer is using two diodes back-to-back (which would allow either polarity to be used) or else the LEDs that they are using employ some other circuitry that allows them to light up whichever polarity is applied (for example, a diode bridge rectifier can be used to make such a circuit).

So, what I'm trying to say is that, having figured that out, I wouldn't be too concerned about the polarity in this specific circuit application. It would have been nice for the manufacturer to explicitly state that information rather than forcing the user to draw that conclusion by studying the wiring diagrams in their documentation.

[Skiroy]

While individual LEDs are in fact diodes that must be connected with a specific polarity, my conclusion from reviewing the data that you provided is that either the lamp stack manufacturer is using two diodes back-to-back (which would allow either polarity to be used) or else the LEDs that they are using employ some other circuitry that allows them to light up whichever polarity is applied (for example, a diode bridge rectifier can be used to make such a circuit).

So, what I'm trying to say is that, having figured that out, I wouldn't be too concerned about the polarity in this specific circuit application. It would have been nice for the manufacturer to explicitly state that information rather than forcing the user to draw that conclusion by studying the wiring diagrams in their documentation.

thank you. I PMed you.

[Skiroy]

It appears to me that there is a sneaky way to get what you want using only one relay contact. You can get the red light flashing and the alarm buzzer buzzing if you do the following:

1. Connect the Red wire to the Brown wire.

2. Connect the Purple wire to the Gray wire.

3. Connect the Gray wire to the - terminal of your 24 volt power supply.

4. Connect the +24 volt power supply wire to one end of the fuse.

5. Connect a wire from the other end of the fuse to the Common terminal of the relay.

6. Connect the Yellow wire to the N.O. terminal of the relay.

With those connections in place, whenever the relay is energized, the common terminal of the relay makes contact with the N.O. terminal of the relay, which applies +24 volts DC to the light stack. The light stack is wired such that as long as power is applied to it, the red light will flash and alarm 1 will sound.

Okay so I used the yellow as my -24VDC. Everything works great. BBBUUUTTT!
Now they want me to wire a yellow light to come on from another timer hooked to a bender. It doesnt matter if it stays on or flashes. How can I do this with a second switch and keep what I have the same?

[doorknob]

Are you saying that you want to stack a yellow light in line with the red one?

Please explain in detail exactly how you decided to wire the red light and the alarm, identifying all connections that you made.

[Skiroy]

Are you saying that you want to stack a yellow light in line with the red one?

Please explain in detail exactly how you decided to wire the red light and the alarm, identifying all connections that you made.

Okay I did it the exact way you described bellow,but yellow wire is my -24VDC common. And I wire the +24VDC to the N.O. contacts to my relay which switches power to the gray and purple wire. Now I need to add a second timer(which will be energized by a different signal that is not relevant), and this second timer's N.O. Contacts need to switch on the yellow light which is completely un related to the red light's circuit. Im just trying to avoid having to use a second light stack.

The red flashing light and buzzer is for the robotic arm system,while the yellow is going to be tied into the bender. Im just going to share the same power supply from the robot to power the lights(if possable) and the timer coil of the bender alarm will be tied into the PLC on the bender,which is a whole different system and power supply.

[doorknob]

I think that what you need to do is connect the Orange wire to the +24V supply to turn it on (as a test).

If that works, then you can hook up the Orange wire through the NO contact of another relay, to the +24V supply, and have that relay control the yellow light when the relay is energized.