[antisubae]

Anecdotally...all the steel stock I got from Online Metals is as near dead flat as I could hope for cheap steel to be. I laid all mine out on the table of the knee mill we have at work (anticipating the possible need to at least true up the bearing surfaces) and was pleasantly surprised. I think it's probably just luck, be it good or bad, as to what the various suppliers have in stock at any given time. Like Bob Adams said a few posts above - if folks were to contact their supplier of choice and tell them exactly what the stock is being used for, they might just take the extra few minutes to find a nice straight piece. Or not, who knows.

[GTFreeFlyer]

More progress. Still having fun. I've got almost the whole carriage put together minus a few bearings. When I went to slide the steel rails back into the carriage, they didn't fit. I guess I didn't use enough cardboard on the rails when I was spacing everything out. I loosened the 4 bolts that hold the carriage together, and then clamped it to the rails again, but this time without the cardboard because now the bearings were installed. I used calipers and measured end to end over and over again, making small adjustments in the set screws in order to position the bearings and make the carriage pieces parallel. Once both sets of the carriage pieces were parallel, I had to make the two sets perpendicular... again. This is easy with a digital angle finder. I just tilted the whole assembly approx 45 deg and held it with a vise. I set the angle finder on one of the horizontal carriage pieces (part #16) and zeroed the angle finder. I then placed it on the vertical piece (part #23) and made small adjustments until I got 90 degrees.

It's coming along. I still don't have any electronics (other than the Super PID), or any of the base parts yet. I'm working out all the metal issues before I continue. However, I better get that base done soon because it doesn't seem like it will be long before I need to mount the gantry to something.

[GTFreeFlyer]

Parts are rolling in. I bought the plywood yesterday and have already cut out more than half of the parts. I also got the 3-axis CNC package from CNCrouterparts.com with the G540 and 390 oz-in motors. I started measuring stuff and drew it all up in CAD. It looks like I'll be able to fit the G540 and power supply in the rear compartment and stick a mini-atx board and SSD drive in the forward compartmant. No mods necessary to the compartment sizes. It looks like it will be very tight, but it shows that it all fits.

The build comtinues....

I've spent less than $2K, including tools, drill press, etc. I may be able to stay under $2K which would be nice. Still left to purchase: Plexiglass, hinges, epoxy, wood filler, paint, built-in computer. I pretty much have everything else. My staging area for all the components looks great!

[GTFreeFlyer]

It's been a while, but I'm back at it. I finally got all the wood pieces cut to size. I've already cut notches in the x and y ribs, but I still need to router out slots and cut-outs in some other pieces.

I'm guessing now comes the fun part? Putting everything together. Actually though, the whole project has been fun so far.

I'm still continuing ahead with version 1.2. I'm too far into the project to change it up to the new 2.0 version.

Bob, you are welcome to use any of my photos of my machine for your website. This project is in Tustin, CA.

[GTFreeFlyer]

The base is coming along!

I found my multi-function oscillating tool to be extremely useful. If I would have known how handy it was, I would have cut all the panels slightly larger than size, and then flush cut everything after nailing it all together. Highly recommended and it doesn't toss sawdust everywhere like a rotary saw would.

I also used a 1/4" radius router bit to round off the edges around the electronics access holes and also on Right Rib #2 so the sharp edges don't cut my wires or give me scratches.

I'm done with the base now, except for all the filling/sanding, and I still need to make the rear flange and cover. Can't wait to get the electrons flowing.

[GTFreeFlyer]

I have the G540 and plan on using Mach3. I'd like to have a small rotating or flashing light when a program is running. I see that the G540 has two outputs, but I'd like to get around this since I assume I'll have to remember to turn the output on or off in my gcode. Is there a way that is more automatic? Perhaps I can tap into some other wire coming out of the G540 that only goes active when a program is running?

[GTFreeFlyer]

Looking for suggestions and ideas on mounting my superPID. If anyone has done so please share. I'd like to be able to see the LCD screen without opening the doors. Has anyone been able to remove the LCD from the circuit board and place it in a remote location?

[GTFreeFlyer]

I'm thinking of building a keyboard drawer under the base. The problem is that the base will only be supported on the sides and back. Do you guys think this thing is sturdy enough to resist bowing in the middle over years of use?

[GTFreeFlyer]

I'm thinking of building a keyboard drawer under the base. The problem is that the base will only be supported on the sides and back. Do you guys think this thing is sturdy enough to resist bowing in the middle over years of use?

Forget this idea. I've scrapped it. I found a wireless mini handheld keyboard that should work out great.

[GTFreeFlyer]

I had a little bit of interference with the side bearings and the rails. I took the washers off from under the bearing and still had problems (1st picture). Luckily, I had access to a Bridgeport and machined down the rail (2nd picture). Assembly is looking great now (3rd picture).

[OCNC]

I had a little bit of interference with the side bearings and the rails. I took the washers off from under the bearing and still had problems (1st picture). Luckily, I had access to a Bridgeport and machined down the rail (2nd picture). Assembly is looking great now (3rd picture).

I had the same problem but just scrapped the 1-1/4" angle and used 1" angle instead...much better clearance.

Chris

[GTFreeFlyer]

Spent a little time on CAD and got my control panel figured out. I wanted to take advantage of all the options I have with the G540 and SuperPID. Looks like a wiring nightmare, but if I've come this far, why not implement it!

Also shown is my cover design. The lid will lift up as normal, but also has two doors in the front for tool changes and installation of little stuff.

The control panel has a key switch on it that will prevent powering up the control system. I have a curious 2 year old and another one on the way so this was a must for me. The main power switch is 3-way (Off - PC on - Everything on). The built-in PC will be allowed to power up regardless of key switch position, but the rest of the system will power up only if the key switch is unlocked.

Other features include full control of the options the SuperPID has to offer. I'll also install a few AC receptacles on the front of the machine, underneath the front flange. Some of these will be switch controlled from the aux power panel, and one will be tied in to one of the G540's outputs in case I decide to use it to turn my shop vac on/off thru g-code, or whatever else I can think of.

Now that the design is laid out and looks pretty cool, I'm getting excited. I've already got most of the switches and need to get a few more.

Plan for this weekend is to build the cover...

[GTFreeFlyer]

Back part of the cover today...

By the way, I had to make the ceiling panel of the cover higher than designed because the stepper motor I got from CNCrouterparts.com was a little too tall (z-axis motor was interfering). Keep an eye out for this if you have the same motors.

[GTFreeFlyer]

Pic 1: Temporary clamped mock up of the assembly.
Pic 2: Another view
Pic 3: 5x5" cutouts for windows. Reverse side has a 6x6" pocket that is 1/2" deep to accept the 6x6x.25" Lexan panels.
Pic 4: Double checking the depth for the weather stripping.
Pic 5: Cutting Lexan on a scroll saw is easy and makes a nice cut.
Pic 6: Double checking my angles to perfection.
Pic 7: My temporary tool staging area. This is extemely useful.
Pic 8: Another view.
Pic 9: My workbench has been a mess ever since I started this project.
Pic 10: Assembling the cover.
Pic 11: A notch has been cut to accept the piano hinge. I'm getting ready to cut the other notch but I had to nail a temporary fence in position because there is no where for clamps to grab on.
Pic 12: Through the window you see the cuouts in the front panel. The square cutout is for the SuperPID. You'll be able to see the LCD from the front.
Pic 13: The circular cutout is for an Amp panel meter.
Pic 14: A little help in the shop is always appreciated
Pic 15: Another shot.

[bjesson]

I had a little bit of interference with the side bearings and the rails. I took the washers off from under the bearing and still had problems (1st picture). Luckily, I had access to a Bridgeport and machined down the rail (2nd picture). Assembly is looking great now (3rd picture).

I had the same issue, just like you, milled 1/8th off the angle iron and problem solved. Did that to both machines I built.

[GTFreeFlyer]

Are you using the planned rails for the bearings? The rails, being untreated steel, have already started corroding on me. This makes for a non-smooth ride. It almost feels like bad, notchy, bearings, but I know it's the surface rust that I feel. Will this translate down to the surface finish of my parts? I bought some rust remover, but haven't used it yet. This would only be a temporary solution anyway. Should I splurge and go with stainless steel? What have you guys done, if anything?

[groswald]

Rust? What's rust?

Oh give me a home where the buffalo roam, and the relative humidity rarely exceeds 30%....

Randy

[gera229]

Is this machine direct drive? Or is there a gear reduction?

[momus_cnc]

Is this machine direct drive? Or is there a gear reduction?

Yes, the Momus machine is direct drive. The X and Y axes are direct from motor to belt (XL series.) The Z axis is acme screw with a derlin anti-backlash nut.

-Bob

[momus_cnc]

I should also add that with a 10x microstepping drive, like the popular Gecko G540, the belt drives on X and Y have an electronic resolution of .001".

-Bob