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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2134
    Really nice machining on those parts! Is that a Batmobile?

    For your question on whether a 6090 would do, I can say that mine, which is pretty much representative of the generic 6090 class machines, would have no trouble at all. I can get around 175mm-180mm under my gantry, so the only limiting factor is the length of the cutter.

    Obviously a longer cutter will give you deeper cuts, but tool deflection then becomes an issue, for foam this wouldn't be so much of an issue, but I could see it being a problem with MDF, as you'd need to increase the diameter of the cutter, as you increase the depth of cut, or the density of the material being machining. Spindle speed and feed rate also becomes critical as your "chatter" will increase. The longest cutter I've used is a 120mm ball nsoe, and haven't had any problems, although I did dial the speed and feed rate down a bit to reduce the chatter and deflection.

    But in short, no you shouldn't have a problem at all just so long as you take the above issues into consideration.

    cheers,
    Ian
    It's rumoured that everytime someone buys a TB6560 based board, an engineer cries!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    0
    Thanks for the reply Ian!, I also took a look at you blog and now all I'm worried about is import costs and finding a good supplier.

    I guess you could call it a very futuristic batmobile but no its a concept car model for automotive design at university. Which is what my machine will be busy making.

    So if you can fit 180mm under the gantry, how much can you fit under the drill bit at its highest point? (I know this depends on the length of the bit so lets say 60mm) I'm just trying to find the maximum cutting height as I will most likely buy a machine very similar to yours but probably a desktop version so I can move easily when my flatmates kick me out for making too much noise and mess with it..lol

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    16

    Should I???

    I am new to CNC and would like to get a router mostly for wood and plastic, but that is stiff enough to do some light aluminum machining.

    I have been looking at the Fireball V90 and Comet, but the V90 doesn't look very stiff, and the Comet is a bit more money than I'd like to spend. I'd like to stay under $2000 US.

    While I am a newb when it comes to CNC, I am an engineer and I have a fairly good electronics and mechanical background.

    Some questions for those of you with CNC 6040's:

    1) Are you happy with your machine?

    2) Is it suitable for a beginner to debug and learn on?

    3) I'm in the US. Has anyone ordered a 110V version, or are you using a transformer? Can I simply run off of 220V @ 60hz?

    4) Should I inquire about an upgrade from the standard 0.8kw spindle to a 1.5kw spindle?

    5) And last but not least, who's a good supplier to order from?

    Thanks!

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Qubert View Post
    I am new to CNC and would like to get a router mostly for wood and plastic, but that is stiff enough to do some light aluminum machining.

    I have been looking at the Fireball V90 and Comet, but the V90 doesn't look very stiff, and the Comet is a bit more money than I'd like to spend. I'd like to stay under $2000 US.

    While I am a newb when it comes to CNC, I am an engineer and I have a fairly good electronics and mechanical background.

    Some questions for those of you with CNC 6040's:

    1) Are you happy with your machine?

    2) Is it suitable for a beginner to debug and learn on?

    3) I'm in the US. Has anyone ordered a 110V version, or are you using a transformer? Can I simply run off of 220V @ 60hz?

    4) Should I inquire about an upgrade from the standard 0.8kw spindle to a 1.5kw spindle?

    5) And last but not least, who's a good supplier to order from?

    Thanks!
    1) Yes, I'm. For money I paid ($1700) it is awesome machine. I did some upgrades (shielded wires, new hoses, G540, limit switches) but you can be probably ok just with G540. And yes, do yourself a favor and spent extra $250 to get G540. It is well worth it (and you are still under $2k ).
    2) Yes, it will forgive a lot. You can hit limits without breaking things (steppers just stall) and it simply not strong enough to destroy itself if you make an error.
    3) I'm using 2k step up transformer from ebay (the one for about $80) cuz I don't have 220V in shop and it works like charm. I bet 220V will work just fine. 60Hz is no problem for VFD.
    4) I tried and failed miserably. If you buying from US, these things are here already packed. No way to change it. But hey, you can have it in 5 days. If you are willing to wait couple month and order from chines suppliers ...., good luck.
    5) I bet love-happy-shopping is the only one. Yes I know, there is a lot of them on ebay IMHO it is still the same company with same storage in CA.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by Foogl View Post
    1) Yes, I'm. For money I paid ($1700) it is awesome machine. I did some upgrades (shielded wires, new hoses, G540, limit switches) but you can be probably ok just with G540. And yes, do yourself a favor and spent extra $250 to get G540. It is well worth it (and you are still under $2k ).
    Thanks Foogl.

    I'm glad to hear the positive report. It does look like a good deal.

    As for the G540, do you still use the power supply in the original controller or did you also add a new power supply? If so, what output voltage is it?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    17
    Yeah, nickel and dimed to death ....
    I bought 48V adjustable PSU from ... ebay . 24V is just waste of good controller and motors. 3 limit switches from guess where coupled with homing + soft limits in Mach3 + auto zero plate. Total was little over $2k. Then you need E11 set of collets from CTC Tools (cca $50), some endmills, blabla ...
    It is a money pit

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    0
    what is the x and y travel on these things? I know what the sellers say but have found that its not always accurate. They claim about 22 inches on the y axis, is this accurate?

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by jack_p View Post
    what is the x and y travel on these things? I know what the sellers say but have found that its not always accurate. They claim about 22 inches on the y axis, is this accurate?
    I'm in the process of setting up my new machine. I'll check the travel tonight and report back.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Qubert View Post
    I'm in the process of setting up my new machine. I'll check the travel tonight and report back.
    Thanks Qubert,

    Looking forward to your results..

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by jack_p View Post
    Thanks Qubert,

    Looking forward to your results..

    I'm coming up with the following travels: X=15-1/8", Y=19-1/4", and Z=2-15/16".

    The only one that looks a bit less than claimed is Y which is supposed to be nearly 23". To tell you the truth, it's possible that I may have screwed up the measurement. Too late tonight, but I'll recheck tomorrow.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    201
    well mine just arived have a look

    this is my post on it

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    0

    3A motor settings.

    Hello. Anyone using one of the CNC6040, CNC4030 or CNC3020 with 3 amp motors? I have a CNC4030 with original YOOCNC drivers and 1.8 amp motors and would like to change the Y axis motor to 3 amp but don´t know how to set the jumpers on the driver and have had no luck finding info on Google.

    I checked the driver chip datasheet and according to what I understood I should close all 3 jumpers (1, .33, .51 ohms in parallel gives .16691 ohms total, using the formula in the datasheet you get 2.9956 amps). Am I right? Could someone check their jumper settings and confirm that all 3 jumpers should be shorted if you are using 3 amp motors?

    Any help would be really appreciated!

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2134
    Quote Originally Posted by Eugenio7 View Post
    Hello. Anyone using one of the CNC6040, CNC4030 or CNC3020 with 3 amp motors? I have a CNC4030 with original YOOCNC drivers and 1.8 amp motors and would like to change the Y axis motor to 3 amp but don´t know how to set the jumpers on the driver and have had no luck finding info on Google.

    I checked the driver chip datasheet and according to what I understood I should close all 3 jumpers (1, .33, .51 ohms in parallel gives .16691 ohms total, using the formula in the datasheet you get 2.9956 amps). Am I right? Could someone check their jumper settings and confirm that all 3 jumpers should be shorted if you are using 3 amp motors?

    Any help would be really appreciated!
    If it's the TBXXXX chipset, they are theoretically capable but I don't think in the real world you can get anywhere near 3A out of them? I'd do a search on the tb6560 threads to confirm before you go doing any changes, as they are almost always, a poorly implimented design, that will struggle with that level of load. What I suspect will happen is that if you change the stepper, you'll lose all the torque as it will be well under delivering the cuurent.

    cheers,
    Ian
    It's rumoured that everytime someone buys a TB6560 based board, an engineer cries!

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    201
    i carnt believe you are useing the YOOCNC that came with it
    i was losing steps all over the place and after about 20 min of testing one of the drivers exploded

    CNC6040 with 3A steppers

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by aarggh View Post
    If it's the TBXXXX chipset, they are theoretically capable but I don't think in the real world you can get anywhere near 3A out of them? I'd do a search on the tb6560 threads to confirm before you go doing any changes, as they are almost always, a poorly implimented design, that will struggle with that level of load. What I suspect will happen is that if you change the stepper, you'll lose all the torque as it will be well under delivering the cuurent.

    cheers,
    Ian
    The problem is the 1.8 amp 170 oz. motor in the Y axis "sticks" once in a while and skips steps, it seems to be underpowered and I would like to try a 3 amp 300 oz. motor I have on hand. If I loosen the drive screw nut a bit more this does not happen but I get terrible backlash. I know all the CNC6040 and some CNC 4030 and CNC3020 come with 3 amp motors and use the same cheap YOOCNC driver board (one per motor), so I would risk using the 3 amp motor if I can just be sure of the jumper settings.
    As it is I am wasting a lot of material when it sticks, so I guess I would not mind burning the driver so I have an excuse to get a nicer one hehe.

    Thanks Ian!

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Adverse Effects View Post
    i carnt believe you are useing the YOOCNC that came with it
    i was losing steps all over the place and after about 20 min of testing one of the drivers exploded
    Well it´s been working ok for a while, the only problem seems to be the Y axis underpower or "undertorqued". I am planning on changing a lot on this machine including breakout board and drivers.

    Thanks!

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Adverse Effects View Post
    i carnt believe you are useing the YOOCNC that came with it
    i was losing steps all over the place and after about 20 min of testing one of the drivers exploded

    CNC6040 with 3A steppers
    Did your original box come with individual drivers for each stepper? Could you check if all 3 jumpers are closed or shorted? (2 sets of 3 jumpers each).

    Thanks!

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    201
    i ended up getting a G-540 and it is amazing the diffrence

    i am driving at more then double the speed i could with the YOOCNC and i am not losing steps

    try swapping 2 of the driver boards and see if the problem moves / go's away

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Adverse Effects View Post

    try swapping 2 of the driver boards and see if the problem moves / go's away
    Good idea, will try that first!

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    0

    Confusion!

    Ok, now I'm more confused. Swapped the Y and Z driver boards. Y axis keeps doing the same, but now the X axis is doing it also, I didn't even touch that board!
    I think I am looking at it all wrong and you are right, what I thought was a stepper "sticking" due to a thight nut on the axis might be a stepper "skipping steps". I just don't know what a "missed step" looks or sounds like! Did a search on youtube and found a video that sounded very similar to what I hear.
    What causes missed steps? The driver boards or the breakout board?
    It was just working great until yesterday and now it's all messed up! Guess I need the new board now.

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