584,866 active members*
4,909 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > 600 by 400 Ally profile 3 axis machine
Page 1 of 3 123
Results 1 to 20 of 43
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612

    600 by 400 Ally profile 3 axis machine

    The main structure is Item 80 by 40 extrusions which are first bolted together and then clad with 8mm ally plate.

    The plate has been cut on my large CNC machine so accuracy of bolt positioning is spot on. The ends of the sections have been threaded 8mm and the other holes have sliding nuts in the slot profile. Fixing in the ends and faces ensures the profiles are sitting square and flush to the plates.

    First photo shows the frame.

    Second and third photos show all the 8mm plates after they have been machined, threaded, counterbored where necessary and de-burred. There was a few nights cutting those.

    Fourth photo shows it assembled.

    Fifth photo shows the gantry sitting on the rails and one section of t slot table that will be fitted. The gantry beam is a piece of 80 by 80 and a piece of 80 by 40 stitched together with bolts and sliding nuts. Ally plate will clad the beam and have all the linear rail bolt holes threaded in it.

    This machine will be a total build from the ground up similar to my last build - Tubot.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...8-tubot-2.html
    .
    .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DCP_1121.JPG   DCP_1122.JPG   DCP_1123.JPG   DCP_1125.JPG  

    DCP_1127.JPG  
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1523
    Rod, great looking build as always.

    Where do you source your 80x40 profile?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    I got the profile from CNC and Cupcake World on ebay. I could be wrong about the profile being Item as it may be AME - not sure of which brand they sell but it is heavy walled and great for the smaller machines.
    I got it cut to size so not much work to putting a machine together if you don't plate it like i have.
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    Have assembled the gantry beam and photo shows the two pieces of extrusion bolted together then clad with 8mm plate on the sides and 10mm on top. The 10mm on top was all I had availalble in my scrap so good enough for the job.

    Next photo is the bearing carrier for the X axis. This will connect to the gantry sides. The slotted holes makes for fine adjustment to centre the gantry as well as the ability to square the gantry beam to the X axis down the track. I will replace the round head cap screws with conventional ones when I next visit the bolt shop.

    Last photo shows one of the X axis ballscrews fitted. It will be dual screws on X to prevent racking of the gantry. In the background you can see Tubot which has been earning it's keep making the smaller plates for this machine.

    T slot table is cut to size but needs to be fixed down - my next job.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DCP_1131.JPG   DCP_1128.JPG   DCP_1130.JPG  
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    Stand was welded today. A bit over 2 lengths of 40 by 40 by 4mm SHS and some swivel castors and it is done. Well the frame is done but a lot of work to go to fit everything up and clad it.

    Left top will be a pull out console that lifts vertically for operating the machine. I have some 150 by 5 mm plates strengthened with angle to fix the four drawer runners to.

    Right top is a compartment for VFD and mains voltage switches and under that a 300 by 200 switchboard encolsure for the electroincs. Computer will go under the console and air pump on the other side.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DCP_1143.JPG   DCP_1144.JPG  
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    Looking great!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    1036
    Beautiful build! Question, do you index your rails to anything when installing to confirm that they are straight?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    Thanks vtx1029 and Don.

    Don,
    Apart from sighting down the rails looking for the obvious I don't check them against a datum. I could slot the plates to contain the slides I suppose.

    I do a number of tests and adjustments with a dial gauge during assembly while aligning the rails to each other and squaring it to the table. I make sure there are slotted mounting points at critical intersections so I can adjust the components. Once the machine is running I calibrate it with a vernier using the software.

    The plates have been cut on my larger CNC machine so fitment is guaranteed unless I measure or get the drawing wrong. It happens and I discarded one machined plate on this build - ouch.

    Probably not scientific but it seems to work.
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2420
    I am in to see how it goes...though I think I can guess

    Russell.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    G'day Russell,

    Just chugging along at a comfortable pace so it won't be finished anytime soon. Concentrating on features rather than completing the project.

    Sitting here designing a lever to lift a hinged console vertical when the drawer is opened. Can't open too soon as it will jam on the top frame when the drawer is opened so has to be a short throw but needs to raise it at least 60 degrees preferrably higher.
    Might have to resort to limit switches and a gear motor. Might also have to just lift it by hand.

    How is the canterlever build going?
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2420
    Hi Rod, maybe you could control it with another axis or two

    Hmmm Cantilever...it sounds familiar but not too sure what you are talking about (chair)

    Seriously though I might be acquiring a rather large machine that will help to finish the router, and anything else I am ever likely to build. Just have to wait to see how it pans out.

    Cheers.

    Russell.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2392
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodm1954 View Post
    Stand was welded today. A bit over 2 lengths of 40 by 40 by 4mm SHS and some swivel castors and it is done. Well the frame is done but a lot of work to go to fit everything up and clad it.
    ...
    Nice to see you do your own welding. I do some here but don't have good facilities to keep everything square, and/or hold stuff square while I weld it.

    Do you use anything for that? Like a metal bench with a flat top or any right angle jigs to hold the tubes while you are welding them? I have a couple of magnetic 90 degree clamps but they can be a real pain as they distort the arc. But then I'm not a great welder...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    Hi Russell,
    I saw a half finished cantalever machine in Bubinda a while back being built by a bloke named Russell - bit of a coincidence.

    I hope the deal works for you on the big machine. You are in the right place with the contacts to get those sorts of things.

    Hi Roman,
    I have a mate that does my important welding so can only take credit for two welds on the frame - rolled it over and found he missed a couple. He is an expert and I don't do enough to get it looking good on every weld.

    I have a steel frame mobile table 1.4m by 700 wide that I clamp the tube to. I get a cover sheet of MDF if the job excedes the table top and clamp to that. Basically I clamp down one side to the table, tack weld, flip over, check measurements then get serious and weld it up. Once two sides are done it is assembled and I use sash clamps to hold it together and it is tack welded, checked and then finished. I use a DC stick welder as I can't justify the bottle hire charge on Argon.
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2392
    Thanks for the info RodM, that flat table makes all the difference. I only have a semi-flat concrete floor or even less flat old wooden worktable.

    And my welder is just a cheap AC stick welder, it splatters and has trouble starting. I'll keep an eye open for a cheap DC welder, thanks for the tip!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    1036
    Hi Rod,

    May I ask another question about your rails? I see that you install one on the front and another on the top of your gantry. Why do you do that instead of installing two on the front of the gantry?

    Thanks.

    Don

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    Hi Don,
    My main thought is to get more separation between the linear rails. The top plate of the ganty box is 20mm thick so will carry the load.

    Also the top rail is out of the firing line of the swarf and the rail is horizontal which means the bearings in the truck are taking the load equally each side. Cutting forces will change that a bit. This bearing set is four way so it probably doesn't matter all that much about the orientation of the rail but it is a tried and tested design on previous builds so I stick with it.

    The bottom rail needs to be as close as it can to the cutter so the vertical mounting and getting covered in swarf is unavoidable. Bellows would fix the swarf problem but I won't be doing that.

    I'm not an engineer so take my thoughts as those of an amateur machine builder who is more than happy to be pointed in the right direction.

    Sorry I didn't realise I hadn't posted photo of the gantry box so have added it now. There are another two plates that complete the box and will pick up the ballscrew which is mounted on the back of the beam. A good position to avoid swarf again. Note the slotted mountings so that I can adjust everything square and make sure it is not binding.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DCP_1148.JPG  
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    A little more of the base. I have recycled some panels from verge collections so there are joins and there were a few cosmetic scratches but I have managed to avoid the worst.
    Top and base is 25mm which after fitting I realised I now can't fit the switchboard in the bottom compartment. No biggy as I can swap it around with the VFD and fit a covering panel to fill the gaps.

    The top will have 25mm ally angle as an edging so the the chipboard doesn't get damaged if it bumps into something.

    In the first photo the holes in the dividing panel are to distribute air which is draw in from under the base - see second photo for that. The idea is to draw in air under the machine where there is the least amount of dust/swarf to carry into the electronics and controls. On a smaller machine like this I might add filters to the intake holes but will run it first to see how it goes.

    The drawer runners are in and can open 600mm. They are those three stage bearing slides and by using two pair it should carry the load OK. The console will hinge upwards from inside the drawer and be held at about 80 degrees. The drawer can then be pushed in a little so it is not so far from the machine.

    Rather than add a new post have added to this one to show progress today - not much as it was 37 degrees.

    I have done the ally edging on the table top and rebated that in so it is fulsh with the surface.

    Made a shelf and fitted up a ACO-009 air pump that will supply air to the cutter for cooling and clearing swarf. Additional air vents added as I have changed my mind on a few things.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DCP_1151.JPG   DCP_1152.JPG   DCP_1154.JPG  
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    Been a bit slack although this part of the build is fidly and takes time anyway. Clearing out the camera so a couple of shots to update the thread.

    I made a facia for the electrical switches and electronics switchboard then fitted up the components and labelled with engraved 2mm acrylic sheet. I had to swap the switchboard and VFD around to fit in the frame - 1mm shy of fitting in but you can't compress a box - yeah I tried.

    The remainder of the base will be clad with ally checker plate with some fixed panels and some hinged for access to wiring, air pump and computer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DCP_1159.JPG   DCP_1162.JPG  
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    0
    Hi Rod,

    Firstly i'd like to say you have done an excellent job. It looks like it will be a very rigid machine. I am interested in building a cnc router with same design but a 6ft x 4ft but will very little experience in this field i will be needing all the help i can get. Hoping to be able to do complete build less electrical for under $3000 and at the same time have a rigid and accurate machine.
    One major problem i have is the aluminium plating that is required for build. I will have to source aluminium and someone to cut it to spec.
    Now to work out all the required lengths of framing from cupcake on ebay.
    Did you also purchase your FULLY SUPPORTED LINEAR RAIL from cupcake?

    Thanks
    Steve

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    612
    Thanks Steve,
    This is following a build I have done before so it is a tried and tested design that works. The plates are not a necessity but they do add rigiidty and I don't regret adding them. Another advantage is it makes it a lot easier to mount the rails and ballscrews as you aren't restricted by the T slot spacing.

    I usually go to linearmotionbearings2008 on ebay for my screws and rails but I have got long rails from Cupcake due to logistics of freight from China.
    Both sellers are easy to deal with and reliable.

    I suggest you make your machine from the ground up as assembly of a large machine is difficult without a base to work from.

    Good luck and expect to outlay more than you think - just the way it works out in my experience.

    Just dashed out before the sun set and took photos of today's effort. I have cut the checker plate panels and mounted one end and the front door. I have put a foam seal around the door to restrict dust ingress. Also fitted handles to help move it around.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DCP_1163.JPG   DCP_1164.JPG  
    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia

Page 1 of 3 123

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 12
    Last Post: 02-07-2014, 02:40 PM
  2. Burny 10 LCD plus and Profile cutting machine.
    By zoom1477 in forum North America RFQ's
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-20-2012, 01:30 AM
  3. Cant machine Ally :(
    By stk2008 in forum DIY CNC Router Table Machines
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 05-16-2010, 04:32 PM
  4. Aluminum profile desktop machine
    By mmstw in forum DIY CNC Router Table Machines
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 05-09-2010, 08:30 PM
  5. CNC Plasma Profile cutting Machine
    By metalczar in forum Want To Buy...Need help!
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-23-2009, 09:00 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •