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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    92

    sanding on 3D

    Hi,
    I'm a newbie in CNC world, just learned to make 3D artwork. I machined a ready vector graphic to see how it works and this is it:

    http://i55.tinypic.com/6px1ki.jpg

    sorry for low resolution, currently no better camera available

    I would like to ask:
    1. if there is any known way to sand the 3D art work by a CNC tool, or if you know any tutorial, how to sand 3D art work the correct way (my result are not good).
    2. a tutorial for the process of varnishing the 3D artwork, how to finish such a work is a big question to me.

    I appreciate your attention greatly!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    177
    Vectric Forum • Search


    here is a start...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    270

    Sanding

    The only method I have found, to get down into the nooks and crannies of 3D carvings is to use a Dremel tool by hand with a diamond coated bit. And good old fashioned sand paper with liberal amounts of elbow grease. As for finishing, polyurethane varnish is what I use, and get good results. I have also learned that 3D carvings are best accomplished using hardwoods such as Oak for best results. The pine tends to split, chip, and generally break off along thin detailed lines of the carvings. I know this is probably not the answer you wanted to hear, but it is the nature of woodworking. Even in the CNC world.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    First off, here is an excellent tutorial on prepping and glazing 3D carved woodwork...

    GLAZING.PDF

    I have been working at this same issue and have been getting better with it...

    I use a small stiff bristled brush like you get at paint stores for removing the burrs and fuzzies from the creases and what not...

    I also invested in a set of precision collets, and a good set of 3D bits.. and then use small overlaps, slow the machine down.. I decided that it was easier to just wait on the machine than to sit there and sand for a couple hours...

    This is the bit set I bought... CM404-100B-001SET

    It appears that you are using pine.. This also lends to problems with fuzzies and chipping when detail carving.. The harder and tighter the wood grain, the better and more detailed your machine can cut..

    Here's some pictures.. This box was cut yesterday in soft maple.. All that has been done to this box so far is to hit it with the nylon brush shown in the first picture.. There are some fine ridges in the pocketed dish around the logo face, which I'm gonna need to work on with sand paper, and to also make some machine adjustments to eliminate or reduce them.. They are created when the machine is pocketing (raster) and changes direction.. There's either a little slop in the machine or I need to reduce the acceleration or something...

    I need to play with it (suggestions??)..

    I'm redoing my files, fixing small issues, and gonna try another one today or tomorrow...

    This isn't a true 3D carving, it's a V Carve, but the issues you are discussing are common to both types of carving..





  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by adprinter View Post
    The only method I have found, to get down into the nooks and crannies of 3D carvings is to use a Dremel tool by hand with a diamond coated bit. And good old fashioned sand paper with liberal amounts of elbow grease. As for finishing, polyurethane varnish is what I use, and get good results. I have also learned that 3D carvings are best accomplished using hardwoods such as Oak for best results. The pine tends to split, chip, and generally break off along thin detailed lines of the carvings. I know this is probably not the answer you wanted to hear, but it is the nature of woodworking. Even in the CNC world.
    Thank you, this is a good answer (and the hint to search also), of the type I was looking for!

    Only my English is not native and I'm not sure I understand some things here.

    >...to use a Dremel tool by hand with a diamond coated bit.
    Could you please point me to a video on youtube, or a photo on google image, or an image you may have of this tool-set, so I could see how they look like?

    >hardwoods such as Oak
    nice, I think I have to change my wood really!

    >As for finishing, polyurethane varnish is what I use, and get good results.
    could you please mention the process? I got varnish for outdoor wood finishing, then applied it using brush on the wood, the problem is that some tiny lines out of the brush tooth remains on the wood, I can't get smooth surface.

    May be I must use a different tool? Could be any automatic pump for varnish, or it must be used with brush? Any link to video tutorial / photos please?

    Thank you,

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by kievari View Post
    Any link to video tutorial / photos please?

    Thank you,
    Did you download the PDF file I linked to above?
    It's excellent!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post
    First off, here is an excellent tutorial on prepping and glazing 3D carved woodwork...

    GLAZING.PDF

    I have been working at this same issue and have been getting better with it...

    I use a small stiff bristled brush like you get at paint stores for removing the burrs and fuzzies from the creases and what not...

    I also invested in a set of precision collets, and a good set of 3D bits.. and then use small overlaps, slow the machine down.. I decided that it was easier to just wait on the machine than to sit there and sand for a couple hours...

    This is the bit set I bought... CM404-100B-001SET

    It appears that you are using pine.. This also lends to problems with fuzzies and chipping when detail carving.. The harder and tighter the wood grain, the better and more detailed your machine can cut..

    Here's some pictures.. This box was cut yesterday in soft maple.. All that has been done to this box so far is to hit it with the nylon brush shown in the first picture.. There are some fine ridges in the pocketed dish around the logo face, which I'm gonna need to work on with sand paper, and to also make some machine adjustments to eliminate or reduce them.. They are created when the machine is pocketing (raster) and changes direction.. There's either a little slop in the machine or I need to reduce the acceleration or something...

    I need to play with it (suggestions??)..

    I'm redoing my files, fixing small issues, and gonna try another one today or tomorrow...

    This isn't a true 3D carving, it's a V Carve, but the issues you are discussing are common to both types of carving..




    My wife is a big raiders fan from way back, I dont suppose you'd be willing to share your files, I just made a paradise box for her, but now she wants yours.

    John

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post
    Did you download the PDF file I linked to above?
    It's excellent!
    Thank you, I just downloaded it! I still can't believe that it is possible to apply varnish by brush and not to leave tiny lines on the finished work! I will study it accurately and try, hope something improves...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by kievari View Post
    Thank you, I just downloaded it! I still can't believe that it is possible to apply varnish by brush and not to leave tiny lines on the finished work! I will study it accurately and try, hope something improves...

    Have you noticed that there is some really nice woodwork out there that was made before the invention of paint sprayers?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by WoodSpinner View Post
    My wife is a big raiders fan from way back, I dont suppose you'd be willing to share your files, I just made a paradise box for her, but now she wants yours.

    John
    Maybe I would.... I'd rather sell you this one though!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post
    Maybe I would.... I'd rather sell you this one though!
    hehehehe, thanks for the maybe, I went out and found a raiders logo and did my own already. But at first sight she did want to buy yours.

    John

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by WoodSpinner View Post
    hehehehe, thanks for the maybe, I went out and found a raiders logo and did my own already. But at first sight she did want to buy yours.

    John
    This first file is a mess.. It's probably easier for you to just do your own from scratch anyways, rather than trying to wade through all the crazy stuff I did... I'm part way through making a new one, with all the stuff I didn't like in this one repaired and it all streamlined to make sense...

    BTW, You married a woman with excellent taste!
    :cheers:

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    92
    Could you please tell me what paper they are using in this video to remove extra varnish (if I understand it right)?

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd6It9aEMsk]RoboCNC Old : This Video has been revised & moved - YouTube[/ame]

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