[straightshot]

hello newbie here, i just received a new (old) 1984 shizouka turret mill with a anilam crusader 2 control, there is a few problems im having with this unit. i have fixed most of the bugs so far myself. the z axis has a auto tool release up top it is a pancake style air cylinder which pushes down on the draw-bar.
the draw-bar has spring washers on it and the lower portion of the draw-bar has a split tapered shaft where the tool is held so it shrinks (so to speak) and lets the tool out and vis a versa. the problem .....lol when i hit the tool change button the cylinder crams the z axis down for example the z axis is holding or trying to then gives up and faults code 18 and faults the z driver board. then i have to reset the board and crusader then it will do this over and over.
im kinda new to the cnc stuff myself so im trying to understand all the terms and stuff , i would think there is something that should shut off the z axis momentarily , when the tool-changer is activated i can hear the driver board and fans lower speed and noise cause its straining, i know its not right thats obvious... im wondering how it originally worked?
there are clamps that slide under the lowest spring washer to hold it from going down ....but there seem to be a window of room that will never go away so it still loads the driver boards and faults out

there was a relay at the bottom of the cabinet which was not supposed to b there from anilam and not in the wiring diagram ,and everyone i have asked(that worked on these or for anilam) said thats not suppose to be there, it has something to do with the spindle control/tool changer control/coolant control. alot of this stuff was disconnected when i received the machine. and its still disconnected ...some wires are wirenutted together some dont go to anything
i have the wiring diagrams for this controll (anilam) also but the tool changer was a add on i beleive


problem 2 is the z axis wonders back and forth when its not in use
i beleive the problem is in the scales needs cleaning or zeroed

it was a real basketcase for sure but i hate to give up on such a nice setup
i just got the rs232 port to work cost 1.05$ to repair myself

its a 3 axis machine really stout peice of equipment id love to be making chips already!!! i can post pics or a video of what its doing.

i have alot of ... i mean a shhhhit ton of hrs trying to repair this already
im getting somewhere just not where i wanna be lol if anyone has any ideas or had this problem pleas email me or pm me slammedbike at y a hoo dot c o m




save me please!!!! lol thanks for any info

[Karl_T]

That shizouka is a great peice of iron.

Unfortunatly the control is obsolete and shot. You'll get nothing but heartache with it. Refit it with EMC or Mach and you'll have a new machine.

Just my 2 cents

Karl

[straightshot]

That shizouka is a great peice of iron.

Unfortunatly the control is obsolete and shot. You'll get nothing but heartache with it. Refit it with EMC or Mach and you'll have a new machine.

Just my 2 cents

Karl

well thats an option in my mind im wondering how much work/$ it cost to swap out the controller, the problem is if i can use the existing servo motors and scales or not.

its all here and i hate to scrap it over a stupid problem can anyone chime in on how this drawbar setup is actually supposed to work? should the servo be holding or should the power be shut off momentarily while the slide locks do the holding?

[underthetire]

Since Shizouka made knee mills, ram mills, bed mills, etc, you might want to post a picture of what you have. And i doubt the Z motor is supposed to shut off, or take load from a drawbar. If it's an ANS model, those didnt even have the spring drawbar from the factory.

[straightshot]

ok here are some pictures

[straightshot]

ok ive narrowed it down to the relay in the bottom of the cabinet, its the k4 relay most anilam crusader 2's don't have this relay ive heard, i beleive it was to incorporate the toolchanger on the shizouka mill? according to the wiring diagram it says "aux 6" turns off coolant,spindle,puts axis in slide hold mode. there is a relay labled k4 in the bottom of the servo cabinet that is hooked to the spindle,coolant,toolchanger, a few other wires were not hooked up but im sure they were at one point but came loose.

if anyone has this relay on there machine and can give me the terminal wiring for k4 i would really apreciate it !!!!

[underthetire]

Sorry, I'm no help on that. I have worked on a few ans models, the problem always was those years never came with controls. They were all added from dealers, so there was a huge amount of difference on all of them.

[A1CNC]

The z axis moving when the machine is at rest tells me the drive is not adjusted correctly. It should hold steady at rest.

You might try contacting Anilam to see if they have a procedure for adjusting the drive, if they don't have one, find out what make of drive you have and go from there.

[straightshot]

i understand how a butterfly style impact works cause there in no load dispersed to the drawbar so it can sit where it is no problem.
but i dont understand how THIS setup works when it has that kinda force put on the drawbar KINDA WEIRD TO ME

[ssoptical]

As far as your z axis wondering the 5 volts on you your servo card is off,
where i work at we have 4 out of 7 cnc's left with the cru 2 controllers.
If you have bad weather with some power outages then after a while the tend to over load the c- moss in the back registers in the computer, if re-booting the computer doesn't cure the drifting axis problem then you will have to have a service tech rebalance the the voltage on your servo card's and balance the signal voltage.
Good luck with your machine, Therine's not a lot of these controller's still around.

[straightshot]

As far as your z axis wondering the 5 volts on you your servo card is off,
where i work at we have 4 out of 7 cnc's left with the cru 2 controllers.
If you have bad weather with some power outages then after a while the tend to over load the c- moss in the back registers in the computer, if re-booting the computer doesn't cure the drifting axis problem then you will have to have a service tech rebalance the the voltage on your servo card's and balance the signal voltage.
Good luck with your machine, Therine's not a lot of these controller's still around.

ok cool i could balance them myself if i knew the procedure

the z wonders on its own without the computer even hooked up i havent tried to clean the scales as of yet i was more concerned with this unidentified K4 relay, i emailed jerry ar anilam he tried to help with some wiring diagrams but there was no relay.
he said they were installed by the dealer that sold the mill and to contact them
so i found a tag that says WESEL manufacturing co.
.............of course ..............i think there out of business cause every phone number is some random person lol

damn i never knew this old ass dinosaur would be this hard to figure out

any way you could check those machines to see if they have this relay for me? that would be awesome

[Karl_T]

...so i found a tag that says WESEL manufacturing co.
.............of course ..............i think there out of business cause every phone number is some random person lol

damn i never knew this old ass dinosaur would be this hard to figure out

Maybe I shouldn't be redundant. I was exactly where you're at several years ago. I wasted months trying to keep an old bandit going. Like your anilan, it was also built by an out of business small vendor.

After that experience, my approach has been empty cabinet. Rip it all out. ID any components to reuse and all the IO. Then build a new control. This will actually take you less time. But more important, the control will be reliable.

Karl

[straightshot]

thanks for the input. im the type that doesn't give up without a fight lol.
even if i were to rip out all the drivers/controll/contactors how would i get this toolchanger to work after spending 5000$ on new stuff? cause right now the controller and drivers i believe are working properly im my eyes... they may need tuning but wont i have to do all that with new stuff? scaling the servos and setting home and so on

im in the process of making a video so you can see whats actually happening thanks!!

[ssoptical]

Check out lynn electronics out of n Carolina or south Carolina.
He use too work for Anilam and started his own company.
HE Has parts for the cru 2's. and repairs them.

[straightshot]

Check out lynn electronics out of n Carolina or south Carolina.
He use too work for Anilam and started his own company.
HE Has parts for the cru 2's. and repairs them.

i did a while bace and hes one of the guys that told me that relay is axillary
from someone else

[straightshot]

anilam crusader 2 z axis moving while toolchange - YouTube


video of what this mill is actually doing PLEASE HEEEELLLPPPP :idea:

[holbieone]

does it have a break on the "z" axis

looks like the brake is slipping

[straightshot]

i dont know if it has a brake the only one i see is at the top its a spindle air brake, you really cant see the ballscrew and scale twisting in the video. it actually looks bad in person.

[holbieone]

there must be something there to lock the quill during tool change

[straightshot]

i finnaly figured out what was causing the z axis problem.....

after days and days of messing around and looking on the internet i finnaly found the answer and ill share so if anyone else has this issue....

this style tool changer is a pancake style FLOATING quick change drawbar.

the reason it was causing a z axis fault i cause this style cylinder has to "float"
so when the cylinder moves down and releases the tool the rest of the travel moves the whole unit up off the top of the head unit. hence the weird shoulder bolts i had that i had no clue where they went.( as this stuff was all in a box when i got the mill.) i had just grabbed some 1/4 -20 bolts and BOLTED it down. so when it would push down and release the tool it would cram the z axis down instead of the toolchanger raising up.

it just clicked in my head as i was thinking of how to get the strokes to mach up instead of shearing the locking lip off the drawbar retaining end.(flame2)

it wasnt fun welding and re machining the area it broke 12 times in a row
(it would break immediately the first time i would hit the button)



now when i push the tool out button the z dose not move even .0005 which makes a whole lot more sence to me now lol
hope it didnt hurt anything prior to me repeatedly hitting the button and watching everything in the quill tweak sideways!!
it seems fine right now..... i think the tweaking is why the z was wondering ........ cause the reader head was out of alignment


LET THIS BE A LESSON LEARNED THE HARD WAY LOL :cheers: