[BillBert]

Looks like a beautiful little machine, the connectors are made by Wieland Bamberg for one manuf.
Do you have the mating connectors and wiring, also the machine schematics or manuals?
Otherwise you are in for some 'reverse engineering'.
Al.

Hi Al,

I don't have the mating connector, but I do have the manual and schematics. After consulting a few more knowledgeable people some on here, the initial consensus is that it "looks" pretty straight forward. We will see??

[BillBert]

Well, I have yet to move it into my basement onto my workshop bench, however as I was sitting in the garage examining it, I decided to pop the front panel open and snap some photos, so here they are:


Thanks

Bob

[Al_The_Man]

Looks like it could be the DC drive for the spindle motor?
How do you intend breaking out the multi-pin Weiland connector?
Apart from trying to source a mate to it, another would be to set up a Termination box for permanent connection?
Al.

[BillBert]

Looks like it could be the DC drive for the spindle motor?
How do you intend breaking out the multi-pin Weiland connector?
Apart from trying to source a mate to it, another would be to set up a Termination box for permanent connection?
Al.

Al you are correct, that is the Spindle Amplifier and looks like a rectifier circuit to convert the AC in to the DC voltages needed to run the machine.

If I can get away with just connecting what I need to the existing connector(s) and using the electronics that exist, I will source the mate, otherwise I will explore removing all and then make up an external power supply/controller package that I will then connect to the appropriate steppers/motor and sensors. I think?

Still looking for advice and help.

Bob

[Al_The_Man]

What other electronics exist? did you get the stepper drives with it?
Al.

[BillBert]

What other electronics exist? did you get the stepper drives with it?
Al.

What you see is what I have, that is it.

[Al_The_Man]

At least if you have the schematics you should be able to match up the wire numbers with steppers etc, it looks like the enclosure you opened is the main termination point.
One way around the multi-pole plug is to remove it, make a cover plate to exit with flex conduit for e.g. and hard wire directly back to the terminal strips shown.
Al.

[BillBert]

As I was searching the net, I found a few more picture of my machine in different configurations/cabinets and I thought I would post them here for those who may be interested or for further analysis.

[Al_The_Man]

Looks like they made a slant bed version!
The operator panel idea is nice, now of course it would be LCD instead of the deeper CRT.
Al.

[TXFred]

One thought. If you are unable to figure out how to operate the spindle via the PC, there's a second approach that will work. The spindle controller on a Gecko 540 is designed to replace a potentiometer. So you could leave the switch in Manual mode, remove the potentiometer, and connect up the G540. That will give you a working spindle.

Another thought. It's possible that the Auto/Manual switch is simply switching between the PC and the potentiometer. It would be worthwhile to trace the wiring of the potentiometer and the switch to see if this is true. If so, then the Auto side of the wiring can be connected to the G540, and the switch and potentiometer would retain their original functions.

Frederic

[BillBert]

Yes, it is my understanding that the auto/man switch is for that exact purpose to override the spindle speed control and your second suggestion is what I hope to accomplish.

Thanks
Bob

[BillBert]

Frederic,

Thank you very much for your response as that was exactly were I was in my thought process. I needed to find a board that would also control the spindle speed through a potentiometer type of arrangement. Much appreciated.

Just for comparison purposes can you suggest any other controllers that would have this feature as well?

Thanks
Bob

One thought. If you are unable to figure out how to operate the spindle via the PC, there's a second approach that will work. The spindle controller on a Gecko 540 is designed to replace a potentiometer. So you could leave the switch in Manual mode, remove the potentiometer, and connect up the G540. That will give you a working spindle.

Another thought. It's possible that the Auto/Manual switch is simply switching between the PC and the potentiometer. It would be worthwhile to trace the wiring of the potentiometer and the switch to see if this is true. If so, then the Auto side of the wiring can be connected to the G540, and the switch and potentiometer would retain their original functions.

Frederic

[TXFred]

The C6 does the same thing.

CNC4PC

The G540 is a complete package of four stepper drivers, breakout board, and spindle control. Add a power supply and a PC and you're good to go.

If you go with the C6, you will need to buy all of those items separately and wire them yourself. That gives you more flexibility, but requires more work. And the end result takes up more space.

There's probably other solutions out there. Those are the only two I know of.

Cheers,
Frederic

[BillBert]

Well, before I order a board, I need to determine what kind of voltage is required to drive the spindle. Or are spindle voltages all similar? Also, I am not sure what the current draw is on the steppers and there does not seem to be any markings on them to assist with figuring them out. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Bob

[weibelmarco]

Hi BillBert

I have a L300 CNC Mill with Cortini 2437 Control.
It allows to run the H105 Lathe as well making full use of the Weiland conector.
Feel free to ask !

[RotarySMP]

Any of the CNC controllers with a spindle ontrol function will only provide logic control (On off, CW/CCW, Speed setting).

It will control relays and simulate the speed pot, the actually muscle power for the motor will be independant of the CNC controller, and will just run over the relays.

Regardless of the CNC controller used, you are probably going to need to provide 5VDC (for logic signals), possibly a second independant 5VDC if you have oppto isolation in your breakout board, maybe 12VDC (if the motor speed controller need a 0-12V input), Muscle power for the steppers (which would be 36-48VDC for a Gecko 540 or up to 80V if you use the modular Geckos), and then ??V to drive your spindle motor.

Keling.com has good prices on power supplies.

[BillBert]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the explaining this, as it makes total sense and to be honest, I suspected that, however, I was not sure.

Bob

Any of the CNC controllers with a spindle ontrol function will only provide logic control (On off, CW/CCW, Speed setting).

It will control relays and simulate the speed pot, the actually muscle power for the motor will be independant of the CNC controller, and will just run over the relays.

Regardless of the CNC controller used, you are probably going to need to provide 5VDC (for logic signals), possibly a second independant 5VDC if you have oppto isolation in your breakout board, maybe 12VDC (if the motor speed controller need a 0-12V input), Muscle power for the steppers (which would be 36-48VDC for a Gecko 540 or up to 80V if you use the modular Geckos), and then ??V to drive your spindle motor.

Keling.com has good prices on power supplies.

[BillBert]

I am posting the maintenance manual for my Cortini H105 CNC lathe so that those who are curious about this machine can have a peek at some of the details and MAYBE help me get where I want to be ;-)

For some reason when I try to post or attach it to this message, it fails??? It is well within the size limit.

If you are interested in a PDF of the manual, PM your email address and I will email it to you.

Thanks

Bob

[Al_The_Man]

Well a few things gleaned by the manual but not much in the way of help!
The spindle appears to be fed from 220vac, SCR bridge type with wound field, (not P.M.)? It also shows a 100p/rev encoder with marker pulse on the motor?
The logic is controlled by an old Z80 processor, one of the steppers is marked as being Zebtronics, which look like they are still around?
I assume the power supplies are also missing, 25vdc, 56vdc, 25vac.
If all the wire numbers jive on the existing machine it will help to draw up a schematic and a plan of action?
Al.

[BillBert]

The manual refers to the system running on 220V, however, I am pretty sure this one is set for 110V. I think they had an North American version which was 110V but supplied the manual without proper revisions. So I am thinking that the voltages that you reference should be halved. As for the spindle, I would think it runs on DC especially because it is clearly variable from about 100 to 3000 rpm.

Thank you for your input.

Bob