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Thread: ATC Slide

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  1. #81
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    605
    I love it when you talk dirty.
    PM-45 CNC conversion built/run/sold.

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    I spent a few hours last night putting more logic in the M6Start macro and I was able to test it this morning and make some tweaks. It seems to be doing very well. The machine is running and the ATC is on the bench (Brackets aren't cured yet).

    If anyone knows anything about Mach macros, I was getting the ToolChange Position from the Toolchage DROs in Mach, but those values are not reliable as they will not say set. To fix it, I just hardcoded my machines position where I want the table at during a change then put it back afterwards.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    2143
    So as written this will only "consume" 2 I/O points - is that right? No real "confirmation/overcheck" involved yet, but that could be done with only 1 or 2 more...
    CAD, CAM, Scanning, Modelling, Machining and more. http://www.mcpii.com/3dservices.html

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    5 Pins as written however there will be a few more later down the road.

    1 Step
    1 Dir
    1 Home
    1 PDB
    1 Cylinder Extend

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632

    Talking

    I got the home switch mounted and wired. I didn't have anymore little optical switches so I'm going to have to order one. Right now I have one of the HoneyWell SLV mini lever switches on there. I use those on my SX3 and they are pretty accurate.

    I mounted it so when it homes it's close to tool 1. After it homes, I just stepped until the tool holder on #1 lines up with the spindle then put that offset in as my homing offset. Works everytime.

    M6 macro is working like a champ as well.

    Again, once this is all going and working I'll start adding some more features and interlock safeties.

    My air blast will be the exhaust from the PDB cylinder and also one off the ATC cylinder. If aimed properly that should work I think without adding another solenoid valve.

    I'm head out of town for work in the morning and will be back Friday. I bet I have this up and running this weekend.

    Richard

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    Going to meet UPS here in a few minutes to get my cushioned air cylinder. Maybe I can get it mounted before I leave town.

    A few pics.

    Added small stiffener in the extension bracket. That made it much more rigid. Here is the temporary Honeywell switch and the changer bolted up, level and all zeroed in.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC02613.JPG   DSC02614.JPG   DSC02617.JPG   DSC02618.JPG  


  7. #87
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7063
    Richard,

    Beautiful job on your whole machine! Can't wait to see the TC in action!

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2580

    Richard....

    Just out of curiosity is that Boring head TTS adapter one of the new ones that came with the groove or one you cut the groove into. Mine does not look like these at all so I may have to buy one...peace

    Pete

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    Thanks Ray. Pete, that adapter is one I bought this year directly from Tormach already grooved and ready to go. I forgot it had the groove in it until I dug it out.


    Air cylinder is mounted and it works like a treat. Clearance is very tight for the air fitting that is under the slide. A custom ground down brass fitting was required.

    I installed a couple needle valves and it glides across nice and smooth. I turned down the air pressure to 30 psi and opened the needle valves up some and I think I like that much better. I have a regulator I bought for it.

    Note: 1" Piston is overkill. Something like a 1/2" or 3/4" piston would had been fine. I may order one to have and get a little more clearance.

    Richard

  10. #90
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    122
    Really lookin good,

    Richard, I notice your shop walls dont have insulation. What issues with rust do you have with tools and machine surfaces? Like those 123 blocks or indexing head you might not use often. Its always been a concern for me and I will be building a new shop in a month or two. I live in south Louisiana and in my old shop I would have to wipe everything down with a lite oil to prevent rust. My current shop is small and fully insulated with A/C & heat, so no problems now.

    Keep the pictures coming, given me ideas when I go to start my ATC build.

  11. #91
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    Believe me, go with the insulation if you can. The sudden temperature changes this time of year are killer and everything is soaked. I tried using LPS 2 and LPS 3 but didn't have any luck then I ran across some stuff that works wonderful and I have absolutely no rust on the machines and tools.


    It's called FluidFilm and it works great. It just wipes off to, no waxy build up.
    I use the spray cans.


    Richard

  12. #92
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7063
    Insulation is not the issue - humidity is. In an un-heated shop, it is absolutely critical that you keep outside air OUT, when the air in the shop, or the machine, is cooler than the outside air. This means that if you MUST open a door, open it go through and CLOSE IT IMMEDIATELY. NEVER leave the door open, as that will admit outside, moist air, which WILL condense on the machines. Keep the door closed, and even with an un-insulated shop, you'll have little trouble with rust. And the absolute WORST thing you can do is use ANY kind of combustion heater in ANY shop, unless the combustion products are vented 100% to the outside. This include gas, wood, pellets, kerosene - ANYTHING that burns.

    My 24x36 shop is unheated, and not terribly well insulated, but I've never had a problem with rust, except the one time someone went in the in the winter and left the door open.

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  13. #93
    I have a 30x40x10 shop here near Dallas,Tx and it is nicely insulated, but I also run a cheap $180 70 pint dehumidifier all the time set to 50%, seems to be working great. Cost me about $25 a month to run.
    Donald

  14. #94
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    I have 2 shops, one is a fully insulated shop 30x25 and it never has condensation. My 30x50 shop is not insulated and when the temperature changes rapidly the machines will get moisture on them. Neither is that "tight".

    I just put a 3 ton cental hvac in the 30x25 and I will most likely extend it another 25' for and additional 30x50 insulated and climate controlled shop then use the current 30x50 for storage and welding and stuff like that.

    Richard

  15. #95
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    All my fittings came in the wrong size and they didn't ship my flow control valves but I did plumb it up with what I had. I need to do some minor adjustments on it but it seems to work pretty good.

    Starts with no tool, gets a few different tools, then unloads them.
    Move the X & Y out of the way then puts it back where it was before the tool change.


    Keep in mind, I have everything slowed way down right now just for testing.

    With Covers it will be right around 60 parts made without the bolts.

    DIY Homemade ATC

    DIY 10 position Tool Changer RF45 - YouTube

    Richard

  16. #96
    Looks awesome Richard! Cool one.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  17. #97
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    I used a couple of 1/4" needle valves I had laying around but they are also pretty hard to fine tune. It's not crashing as hard as it sounds on the video. The air cylinder sticks out past the bracket a little over 7 inches but on the picture it looks like it sticks out 2 foot.

    Richard
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC02621.JPG   DSC02622.JPG  

  18. #98
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    724
    Looks very nice Richard!
    Is the air blast in between the PDB and the shuttle to clean the tool?
    And if so, are you using the exhaust from the PDB for that?
    And lastly, if the above is correct would that mean you are cycling the collet up w/o a tool once for every tool change?

    Nice shop by the way

    JTCUSTOMS
    "It is only when they go wrong that machines remind you how powerful they are."
    Clive James

  19. #99
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    I don't have the air blast rigged up yet. I just did a quick trial run. My thought is to simply cycle the output a second or less for the PDB. Not enough hopefully to let it fully cycle, just enough to blow off the chips. I have another output and solenoid I could use but I would need to rig up another relay driver.

    The dadgum plastic timing pulley needs to be thrown in the trash. I'm having a hard time keeping it staying still in it's proper position. The aluminum pulley was on back order for 6 weeks.

    Richard

  20. #100
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    I had a fault today where my Slide solenoid got some trash in it and I fumbled a tool so I added my limit switch so I can make sure the slide is in the correct position.

    I modified the code for the safety checks on Slide Extended and Retracted and tested. I disconnected the air to the slide and it work as expected with a big error message stating the slide did not extended.

    Richard

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