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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Cincinnati CNC > Arrow 1000 not powering up
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    64

    Arrow 1000 not powering up

    Hi! HELP!!!!! lol..
    I have a Arrow 1000, flip the power switch and fans come on BDS-5 drives light up but show under voltage.
    push green button on the controller, nothing. Black screen, no switch/relay engagements'
    Where do I start? I have good voltage coming in on all three legs, good through the master switch. I have no voltage(110) at what I think is the power supply for the computer/controller. Should I have? or does it power up after the green button is pressed?
    Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Thank you for looking and thank you up front for any help you offer!
    Bill

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    423
    Is this a new install or has it been functional before now?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    64
    Been in its current location for almost two years, worked fine yesterday, normal shut down, no go this morning!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    6028
    What control?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    64
    2100

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    Should be 220 to the power supply then. Been a while, but once you power up the main, I believe you should have 220 at the plug.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    64
    You could be right, it looks like the power supply is set to 230 (tagged 220-240) But what I think I need to know, should there be power at the plugs (the ones that look the same as the cord connections in the back of a PC) with the master switch on? The fan on the power supply does not run, or does the power supply power up after the green button is pushed?
    this is just a guess....and a hope tha the problem is a low cost power supply!




  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    6028
    Think it's supposed to. Easy way to tell, switch the red switch to 110 and plug it in to the wall. Don't forget to switch it back. Think those are AT power supplies, not ATX btw.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    423
    Yes those are AT power supplies set at 230. Remove it ,set to 110 and plug it in to see if the fan spins.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    64
    thanks for the help! is the plugs I have pictured the onput or out put? I have no voltage on either the plug or the cord, I am thinking the plugs are the out lets, years ago I had some type of problem and a repair guy installed a y cable and abandoned the one plug.
    Also AT vs ATX? I do not know the diffrence!

    Thanks again!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    353
    AT power supplies are just an older style and harder to find. You won't find them at a regular computer big-box store, you'll likely have to go somewhere that builds custom computers etc... May even have to order one (or two) special. These are common fail items on these machines.

    Also when you are at the computer store, grab an IDE cable that will support two hard drives, and buy another hard drive and make a copy of the hard drive in the machine. Even make two copies!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    6028
    The white one is the input. Steal a cord off your desktop. There are some adapters you can but cheap for the ATX to at power supplies, but I still find AT power supplies here and there.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    64
    Thanks for the help once again, I pulled out the silver cabnet/computer and now can see the tags, the right side in the picture where the white plug is the input, the left side was a outlet that was abandonded years ago that looks to be what originaly powered the controller/screen. the repairman had "Y" in to the input side to provide power out to the controller/screen.
    I have yet to pull the power supply out to test it, but what just became painfully obviouse is I have no AC power going to the power supply.

    So my next question would be, would anybody have any recomendations about circuit protection and/or any conditions that might exsist that would prevent AC power from being supplyed to the power supply?

    Thanks again for all the help!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    251
    Do not change the switch to 110 volts unless you want to fry your components,especially if your incoming supply is higher,they normally recommend setting at 230 volts if your not sure and at worst it will not power up correctly but the fan should still run.As Laka said these are a common problem,the At power supplies are hard to get now and although only 220 watt they are very heavy duty inside compared to anything that size.I have found around 400/450 watts work pretty good in a Atx but they need to be con figured properly .

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by greg b View Post
    Do not change the switch to 110 volts unless you want to fry your components,especially if your incoming supply is higher,they normally recommend setting at 230 volts if your not sure and at worst it will not power up correctly but the fan should still run.As Laka said these are a common problem,the At power supplies are hard to get now and although only 220 watt they are very heavy duty inside compared to anything that size.I have found around 400/450 watts work pretty good in a Atx but they need to be con figured properly .

    Hi! Thank you, I have not yet tried to apply a out side power source to the power supply for fear of creating other problems and had decided I would not do that until the power supply was removed and isolated.

    But what I would hope was a natural progression of order would be to try to find out why I was lacking any voltage going to the power supply and I am really hoping for some help in figuring out why!

    Although the power supply may still be suspect, I would think the lack of voltage on the supply side is the first issue that needs to be dealt with!
    I do like Laka's suggestion of copying the hard drive while I am at this point, a little preparation for the inevitable hard drive crash. And regardless, it may also be a good time to pay attention to the power supply while I have things all taken apart!

    If any body has any suggestions or can walk me through diagnosing the lack of voltage to the power supply, it would be greatly appreciated!

    Thank you again!

    Bill

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    Pretty sure it just ran through a breaker or fuse. I don't have prints, would be pretty easy to diagnose from those. And I also agree with mirroring your hard drive. Just don't go buy a 1 tb or something. Those were pretty small by today's standards. You may need to know what the head/sectors/size is in the bios now, so you can format the new drive the same.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    423
    If worse came to worst the hard drive that is available on ebay is good. I have been using one now for 3 years. There are several at power supplies still available on Amazon.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    64
    It looks like one leg/wire of the supply power comes from the circuit board and the other wire takes off some where into the loom/harness and I am showing 0 volts on each leg (hopefully I am testing it right) I was looking for any voltage from either side to the center pin and from side to side. If anybody knows of any type of circuit protection for that circuit, oh would I appreciate hearing about it!!!
    I will look and see if I can find it in a wiring diagram, but I am bothered that the power does not come from one common source!

    Thanks again for the help and if any body has any ideas and.or info... would love to hear it!
    Thanks! Bill

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    Center pin should be ground. You should show 220 or so on the other two together. Should be fed from a double pole breaker, but prints would help. I might have prints at work I could take a quick look at, same control but a larger machine.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    461
    Getting back to the basics of your question:
    When you first turn on the main machine disconnect you will not have power to the A2100 power supply. Once you press the green start button the first time, it closes a contactor which then powers up the control. So, until you press the green button, you will not have power at the control's power supply.

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