[Mad Welder]

A suggestion here maybe......... even though you don't have the gib locking bolts fitted it is possible that the screws on either end of the gibs need more attention and even if they're also loose this would also possibly explain the noise in the z axis because as you raise the saddle the gib is tappered and therefore is actually tightening so more torque is required from the stepper hence the jumping or missing steps.........also if you have a look at the stepper driver and set the little switches to output half steps and within mach in the settings page set steps per inch/mm and I know you may not be ready for axis calibration yet but just to get you in the ball park and get your axis's moving somewhere within normal limits.........and always turn off driver power before doing any electrical work on the steppers...........also add a small bit of way oil (WD40 will suffice too) to reduce binding of the gibs and saddle tapers........after you get the saddles moving you will probably have to adjust the gibs adjusting screws few times as they bed in....

[Fastest1]

Btw, it is a good idea to film with your phone sideways. You must activate the camera app while the phone is already sideways. Initiating the camera then turning the camera won't work.

[hoss2006]

Set your #5 switch on your drivers to OFF, 6,7,8 stay ON
This puts you in 1/2 step mode.
Put 2000 in steps/per in motor tuning and a Velocity of 100 (to start) and an Acceleration of 35.
This should work much better.
Increase your velocity till it can't maintain it full travels then back off 25.
http://www.kelinginc.net/Mach3setup.pdf
Hoss

[Mad Welder]

.............Put 2000 in steps/per in motor tuning and a Velocity of 100 (to start) and an Acceleration of 35...........
Hoss

Ouch........sorry there feedric.......yup Hoss is bang on there, my mistake the calibration should be done after the motor tuning steps.......thanks again there Hoss

[feederic]

Thanks for the advice everyone! Are those clunking sounds a huge issue?

[hoss2006]

I'd expect the clunking sound to go away with the drivers set correctly, have you done that?
Hoss

[feederic]

I'd expect the clunking sound to go away with the drivers set correctly, have you done that?
Hoss

This did the trick!!

HUGE THANKS TO EVERYONE!!

Here is the results.

The X-axis decoupled on me. It looks like there is still a spot or two underneath the table that needs some grinding.

Thanks again to everyone that contributed! I can't wait to start making some chips soon!!

[ww_kayak]

A couple questions on this setup: I have (or will have) basically the same setup, except Keling sent me the 8056Ds as a free upgrade?

What is the theory behind choosing half-stepping for this particular machine/steppers. Does it to provide the most torque, best speed, or proper resolution? Would more micro-steps make for more accuracy, or would it be overkill for this ballscrew/machine combo?

How does the auto-configuration fit in with the step/current settings:

Manual: Just changes SW4 two times in 1 second, and then the driver will auto-identify the new motor and auto-configure related control parameters for optimum responses.

[phomann]

Hi,

Microstepping give smoother motion at low speeds. It also provides more resolution, but NOT accuracy. You should use the fullstep movement for an accuracy value. That said 1/2 step will be almost as accurate.

Microsteps will not be positioned linearly between the fill steps. This is due to slight differences in the two windings, detent force, and external forces.

between the fullstep position, the stepper rotor is held there like a spring. You can physically push it away from the theoretical microstep position.

Cheers,

Peter.

[691175002]

Half stepping is just a good middle ground. There is really no reason to aim for resolution much beyond your required accuracy because digital drivers will already be very smooth.

Do the auto configuration for the drivers. It will make them run smoother at medium/high speeds.

[wisp]

Welcome to the club Feederic!
AFAIK cncfusion doesn't have their kit ready for sale yet for the g0704, it's only been 2 years.
this is a quick and dirty power drawbar that can be adapted.
POWER DRAWBAR KIT
I'll have mine out soon.
I have light duty versions here.
Projects2
Hoss

The kit is finally available.

cheers,
Michael

[hoss2006]

The kit is finally available.

cheers,
Michael

Good to hear, I've had a link on my website already for some months now when the beta test was announced.
Hoss

[feederic]

I think I am down to my last install issue.

The X-axis decouples when the table is moving to the left (when facing the front of the mill).

In this direction the nut securing the ballscrew digs into the x-axis mount, and will either bind up completely or start unthreading.

I am thinking of using some kind of nylon spacer/washer in between the nut and stepper mount. I had a friend check out a hardware store but he couldn't seem to find a larger nut that matched the threads.

Could you wise ones recommend a proper solution for this issue? I would think the nut itself is a standard metric thread.

[manton]

This would make me think that the nut is moving back and forth depending on the direction of travel, which means that you perhaps don't have the nut tight enough to start with. This would indicate that you have a backlash source in the A/C bearings at this end, assuming that this is the end with the A/C bearings.

If you push or pull on the end of the table in the X axis direction can you make this nut move back and forth with respect to the mount? If so, this would confirm that you also have a backlash problem, and need to get the nut tighter, which likely means it will be even closer to the mount, and that the mount is in the way of actually getting the nut as tight as it should be.

Could you machine away some of the mount to give the nut enough clearance?

[feederic]

This would make me think that the nut is moving back and forth depending on the direction of travel, which means that you perhaps don't have the nut tight enough to start with.

You are right, the nut simply isn't tight enough. But if I were to tighten the nut down further, there is no bearing surface for the nut to push against. I feel like I am missing a bearing there.

The outer edges of the nut are barely scraping against the hole creating a chamfer too.

[feederic]

The kit is finally available.

cheers,
Michael

Looks like a good kit!

[manton]

You are right, the nut simply isn't tight enough. But if I were to tighten the nut down further, there is no bearing surface for the nut to push against. I feel like I am missing a bearing there.

I believe the nut should push against the inner bearing race, which is the part that turns. Does it not do this? Perhaps you could use a spacer to do this instead of machining the mount, as long as you have enough thread.

Is this the end with the A/C bearings? If it is, then the nut supplies the preload for the bearings, which prevents the screw from moving with respect to the table.

[feederic]

I believe the nut should push against the inner bearing race, which is the part that turns. Does it not do this? Perhaps you could use a spacer to do this instead of machining the mount, as long as you have enough thread.

Is this the end with the A/C bearings? If it is, then the nut supplies the preload for the bearings, which prevents the screw from moving with respect to the table.

No the nut doesn't push against anything, aside from the outer edge of the nut digging into ballscrew hole inside of the mount.

This was a team effort, and I really don't know how the x-axis went together. But I am wondering if there is a missing bearing the that the nut should be bearing against, or if its possible the bearing was installed on the wrong side.

There are A/C bearings on both sides, and if there shouldn't be I guess this answers my question. There is a bearing on the inside face of the stepper mount against the table, and a bearing on the opposite side of the table where the machined end of the ballscrew simply portrudes.

[feederic]

Based on this picture from bdtools, it looks like I might have to relieve the mount. So manton you guessed right! I will need to machine it down so the nut can press against the bearing raceway. Thanks for the info!

[manton]

No the nut doesn't push against anything, aside from the outer edge of the nut digging into ballscrew hole inside of the mount.

This was a team effort, and I really don't know how the x-axis went together. But I am wondering if there is a missing bearing the that the nut should be bearing against, or if its possible the bearing was installed on the wrong side.

There are A/C bearings on both sides, and if there shouldn't be I guess this answers my question. There is a bearing on the inside face of the stepper mount against the table, and a bearing on the opposite side of the table where the machined end of the ballscrew simply portrudes.

As far as I know, and I'm no expert, there should only be A/C bearings on one end. The other end should have a standard bearing just to support the shaft radially, but the shaft needs to be able to slide in the bearing, to account for thermal expansion of the ballscrew.

I think you want both A/C bearings at the stepper end. Looking at your picture of the stepper mount though, it doesn't look like this would be possible. Does the other end support two bearings? Hopefully one of the other experts can chime in here, and give us some additional information on this.