[zappafan1]

I will soon be purchasing the machine on this web page: Cnc Router WATER-COOLE MOTOR SPINDLE 1.5KW - Taig Ballscrew BF20 Mill milling routing machine machines

I'll be upgrading it with a Gecko 540 since it now has cheap China-built drivers.
Can someone tell me how to convert the 1.5kw spindle power rating to horsepower? There is a 2.5 and 3kw spindle available as an option. I'll be milling and drilling 1/8" and 1/4" T6 aluminum.

Here's the basic machine info on the page:
This fully 3 axis cnc router will make a great addition to any home shop or business.

It features precision ground, ball screws and ball nuts (c7 )

coupled to Cnc Controller Driver TB6560

High-precision Ballscrew
16mm Pitch 5mm (C7)

Precision supported linear for Y X and Z

6pcs SBR20 rails
12pcs SBR20UU bearing blocks

Aluminum plate thickness 1/2 inches and 3/4 inches

Mic 6 Precision Machined Cast Aluminium Plate

1.5KW WATER-COOLING SPINDLE MOTOR

SPEED: 0-24000 R/min

Collet: ER11

CNC DRIVER　

3 axis CNC DRIVER TB6560

Power Supply

Can be used in all countries of the world, power is the input voltage 110v --- 240v AC

Stepper Motor

Z axis Nema 23 290 oz/in Stepper Motor
X axis Nema 23 290 oz/in Stepper Motor
Y axis Nema 23 425 oz/in Stepper Motor

Thanks for your time and info.

[UUU]

One horsepower is 750W, so your 1.5KW motor is 2HP.

[awerby]

Usually, gantry-type routers are not recommended for milling aluminum. They lack the rigidity required to handle the cutting forces well. There will be a lot of "chatter" at the tool-tip, which isn't going to produce a smooth surface. If aluminum milling is the main thing you want to do, I'd suggest finding a different sort of machine. But if you want to cut wood, foam, or plastics, this one will probably work okay.

Andrew Werby
ComputerSculpture.com — Home Page for Discount Hardware & Software

[zappafan1]

Usually, gantry-type routers are not recommended for milling aluminum. They lack the rigidity required to handle the cutting forces well. There will be a lot of "chatter" at the tool-tip, which isn't going to produce a smooth surface. If aluminum milling is the main thing you want to do, I'd suggest finding a different sort of machine. But if you want to cut wood, foam, or plastics, this one will probably work okay.

Andrew Werby
ComputerSculpture.com — Home Page for Discount Hardware & Software

Thanks for the comeback! At this time I have no choice but to go with that machine, although I'll be upgrading it as far as strength and precision goes.... I have over 30 years as a fabricator/weldor, so that won't be a problem. I didn't include the following info in my previous post: I'll be milling a 39" x 11/32" slot in the 1/8" material, and the 1/4" x 2" material there will be multiple 11/32" holes. So, with very little precision required, I think that machine will do the job. I chose this machine because of the price and table size (x-y) so I can do multiple parts at one time. I know I'll have to upgrade the spindle power and controller to a Gecko 540 when I can afford it, but I'm hoping to get the first parts run done on schedule and I can proceed from there. Your thoughts?

[awerby]

Thanks for the comeback! At this time I have no choice but to go with that machine, although I'll be upgrading it as far as strength and precision goes.... I have over 30 years as a fabricator/weldor, so that won't be a problem. I didn't include the following info in my previous post: I'll be milling a 39" x 11/32" slot in the 1/8" material, and the 1/4" x 2" material there will be multiple 11/32" holes. So, with very little precision required, I think that machine will do the job. I chose this machine because of the price and table size (x-y) so I can do multiple parts at one time. I know I'll have to upgrade the spindle power and controller to a Gecko 540 when I can afford it, but I'm hoping to get the first parts run done on schedule and I can proceed from there. Your thoughts?

I doubt that the spindle power or speed will be the limiting factor, and if these slots and holes are all you need to do (and your tolerances are low) you might get away with it. You'll either have to get a drill chuck for the spindle or find a set of drill bits that fit your collet size to do the drilling. But slots are tricky to do, since you're cutting on both sides of the cutter. Go slowly, keep the slot shallow (multiple cuts are fine), and keep it clean of chips and well-lubricated. 1/8" sheet is hard to hold onto hard enough to keep it from bowing up and rattling around - you might look into a vacuum table. Why don't you write back once you've tried this and let us know how it goes, okay?

Andrew Werby
ComputerSculpture.com — Home Page for Discount Hardware & Software

[zappafan1]

I doubt that the spindle power or speed will be the limiting factor, and if these slots and holes are all you need to do (and your tolerances are low) you might get away with it. You'll either have to get a drill chuck for the spindle or find a set of drill bits that fit your collet size to do the drilling. But slots are tricky to do, since you're cutting on both sides of the cutter. Go slowly, keep the slot shallow (multiple cuts are fine), and keep it clean of chips and well-lubricated. 1/8" sheet is hard to hold onto hard enough to keep it from bowing up and rattling around - you might look into a vacuum table. Why don't you write back once you've tried this and let us know how it goes, okay?

Andrew Werby
ComputerSculpture.com — Home Page for Discount Hardware & Software

Thanks for your thoughts. The 1/8" materials are two: the 40" x 1/2" x 2" C- channel gets the slots; then 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" x 1/8" square tube gets holes, and also 1/4" x 2" flat stock get's multiple holes; all of which are 11/32". I plan on using Cobalt tooling if I can get it and, if not, then I'll use carbide. My concern about this would be my next question.... in the tooling setup it asks for shank size and tool diameter, and I'm not sure which aspect of the mach3 utility would be affected; max rpm? Feed rate?

Since you mentioned multiple passes, I was wondering if I can't use a full size tool with a reduced shank, which would surely reduce the time req'd. to do each part. The collet size on this machine is just a tad over 1/4" max... a C11 I believe it is. On the C-channel I plan on having 5 or 6 parts on the table, and I'd be able to clamp down each end... same for the drilling of the flats and Sq. tube. Someone who used to make these parts used either mist-type cooling or two drops a minute of coolant.

I've been cramming on using Mach3 and Rhinocad/cam, since it's been so long since I used g-codes that it's like I never did it at all. I'll be getting the parts soon so I can take accurate measurements of slot/hole locations and try and draw them up on Rhino. I'll be pressed for time to get all this working as it should because I have to have the first run of parts cut, machined, welded and shipped by the end of March. I've considered paying someone to help with that (g-codes for the parts), but there's no-one around this small town that knows much about it. That would be great because I could see the code for each part and learn at the same time.

I have the free cad utility called CamBam, too, but that's only a last resort at this point, as I'd rather use Rhino.

You can see the parts I have to make at: Welcome to Advanced Technique Fireworks Home on the Web Click on "Racks" at the top, then "Aluminum Racks." This is new venture for me but it is in line with my main business of designing and building trailers for people that shoot display fireworks. I can design/build most any other kind of trailer, too, but as the name implies, pyro trailers are the main reason I started the business. StarFire Trailer Systems -- Made in America

[awerby]

Thanks for your thoughts. The 1/8" materials are two: the 40" x 1/2" x 2" C- channel gets the slots; then 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" x 1/8" square tube gets holes, and also 1/4" x 2" flat stock get's multiple holes; all of which are 11/32".

[That should be a lot easier to hold down than the 1/8" flat stock I thought you meant.]

I plan on using Cobalt tooling if I can get it and, if not, then I'll use carbide. My concern about this would be my next question.... in the tooling setup it asks for shank size and tool diameter, and I'm not sure which aspect of the mach3 utility would be affected; max rpm? Feed rate?

[I'm not too familiar with "LazyCAM", but I'd assume that was to calculate offsets.]

Since you mentioned multiple passes, I was wondering if I can't use a full size tool with a reduced shank, which would surely reduce the time req'd. to do each part. The collet size on this machine is just a tad over 1/4" max...

[That might be hard to find. It's a lot more common to see endmills with shanks bigger than the flutes than the other way around.]

a C11 I believe it is. On the C-channel I plan on having 5 or 6 parts on the table, and I'd be able to clamp down each end... same for the drilling of the flats and Sq. tube. Someone who used to make these parts used either mist-type cooling or two drops a minute of coolant.

I've been cramming on using Mach3 and Rhinocad/cam, since it's been so long since I used g-codes that it's like I never did it at all.

[It's like riding a bicycle - it'll all come back to you once you're aboard...]

I'll be getting the parts soon so I can take accurate measurements of slot/hole locations and try and draw them up on Rhino. I'll be pressed for time to get all this working as it should because I have to have the first run of parts cut, machined, welded and shipped by the end of March. I've considered paying someone to help with that (g-codes for the parts), but there's no-one around this small town that knows much about it. That would be great because I could see the code for each part and learn at the same time.

[It's not that hard, especially considering that your parts aren't very complex. You could probably code it by hand, but with Rhino/RhinoCAM it will be a lot simpler. If you haven't bought the software yet, I can get you a good deal on it. And Mecsoft has excellent tech support to walk you through any tough parts.]

I have the free cad utility called CamBam, too, but that's only a last resort at this point, as I'd rather use Rhino.

You can see the parts I have to make at: Welcome to Advanced Technique Fireworks Home on the Web Click on "Racks" at the top, then "Aluminum Racks." This is new venture for me but it is in line with my main business of designing and building trailers for people that shoot display fireworks. I can design/build most any other kind of trailer, too, but as the name implies, pyro trailers are the main reason I started the business. StarFire Trailer Systems -- Made in America

[Wow - is that all "safe and sane"?]

Happy Holidays,

Andrew Werby
ComputerSculpture.com — Home Page for Discount Hardware & Software

[zappafan1]

Hi, Andrew: Thanks for your comments; I learn something every time I check this and other threads. As far as "remembering" G-Code from long ago.... I don't recall ever riding a bicycle. Nope, I'm not wired like that, and my experience with coding was only about three weeks.

As for Rhino, the learning curve is as bad as 3dmax and Solidworks..... about 80 degrees, where one's feet are hanging down from a tilted ladder. Actually, I'm going to concentrate on another utility, G-Simple, for now... and that's enough of a challenge. I do some great work with Xara Xtreme, but I can't use it to export to any format used by Rhino..... except maybe PDF.

I'm not too concerned about the age of my RhinoCad, as it came with this computer I bought from a friend, and I'll be able to figure out the input and output pins on my own. I put most everything I had into starting this business, and I'll upgrade when I am able..... if the economy doesn't bottom out like it looks like it's going to do in 2012. It's bad enough that I have to purchase a CNC, as I have the knowledge and mechanical skill to build one, having been 30+ years in the welding/maintenance/millwright fields, plus 20 years working on designing, building and repairing computers. However, like I said, most all of my funds went into the trailer business.... and it's been slow.

Yes..... the trailers I build, and the people that use them, are some of the safest and most sane people I know.... a bit odd from time to time, but a great bunch all in all.