[Al_The_Man]

For initial testing you can use just about any resistor value that might have come with the drive.
It comes into play for current limit to prevent overcurrent through the motor when operating at too high a load.
Al.

[nateman_doo]

Right now, I am trying to find a box to house this board in. Also the new spindle bearings are on the way.

[nateman_doo]

Found a replacement for the lower bearings. Apparently the 609-2RS is hard to find. McMaster has one that is pre-greased and sealed with a max RPM of 33K

McMaster Part: 6153K68

Type
Ball Bearings

Ball Bearing Style
Double Sealed

Ball Bearing Type
General Purpose

System of Measurement
Metric

For Shaft Diameter
9 mm

Outside Diameter
24 mm

Width
7 mm

ABEC Precision Bearing Rating
ABEC-1

ABEC-1 Precision Rating
Regular

Bearing Trade Number
609

Dynamic Radial Load Capacity, lbs.
754

Maximum rpm
32,000

Temperature Range
-40° to +300° F

Bearing Material
Stainless Steel

Stainless Steel Material Type
Type 440 Stainless Steel

Seal Material
Buna-N

Specifications Met
Not Rated

Note
Bearing comes greased.

[nateman_doo]

Resister arrived. Seems like a direct replacement, just pop out old one and insert new one.

Looking for a box to house everything still.

[nateman_doo]

Using the A+ / A- correct?

[Al_The_Man]

Yes, Do not use the F+ F-.
Al.

[nateman_doo]

This is kind of exciting. I finally pried that daughter board off it. I will take lots of pics and then this thread should be pinned, so all this good info doesn't get lots in obscurity.

[dertsap]

are you not going to use the terminal board

[nateman_doo]

I am using the terminal board. I used a new kill switch, and used the old X2 main housing, and potentiometer

[nateman_doo]

Now which way to turn for max torque:


From the site:
You have to use a mini flat-head screwdriver to do the adjustments.
I adjusted them in this order.

Max RPM: Set to max (7500rpm), Just turn counter-clockwise to get a lower full rpm like 6000 or so..
Min RPM: Set it so the Spindle stop when your control knob (potentiometer) is fully turned off.
CR (TORQUE): This adjustment decide the load level your spindle stop at.
IR (load comp.): This adjustment decide the level of load your spindle start to turn at a lower RPM.

I set CR (torque) so the motor stop rotating when the belt is starting to slip.
Using a 1/2" drill in mild-steel load, I set IR so the spindle turn about two-third of what it does without load.

[dertsap]

Now which way to turn for max torque:
.

clockwise for more , counterclockwise for less

[nateman_doo]

So here are the numbers on speed. Measurements taken at the spindle:

(LMS belt kit)

Low Gear:
Min: 112
Max: 2129

High Gear
Min: 540
Max: 5790

[dertsap]

is that set to max ?
one thing that I found was that before warm up the spindle will turn at 6800 but after a 5 minute warm up it speeds up to 7400 .
I'm going to knock it back to 5000 - 5500 rpm so that the brushes don't get done in , it'll be a bit faster than what is typical for those belt drives but should go easier on the motor

[nateman_doo]

Yes, that is max. Did you use the X2's potentiometer, or something else? The other 2 dials I have pointing straight up in the middle.

I LOVE the thing already. I went straight into a 1/2" hole right in copper and it didn't stall out. What I REAAAALLLY love about the unit, is that is speeds up when it senses a load, and compensates.

[dertsap]

yes i used the x2 potentiometer , i tried a different one and the motor was unstable

[nateman_doo]

Here is the ghetto installation:

The input is on the right side, by way of an old PC power supply wire cut off. The black live line was inturrupted by the kill switch I bought at keling.net.

The orange wire is an 14 gauge extension cord that I used to test it out, and goes directly to the motor.

Looking at the daughter board that is on top, you can see the green fittings at the bottom right. The input wires are closest to the bottom, and the 2 above that are going to the orange wire are the motor output wires (A's)

If you follow the blue wires to the board that is where the original potentiometer was installed. I de-soldered it, and put the factory X2 one on there, just using P1, P2, and P3.

Also, I managed to keep the stock fan, and fan controller board (directly above the kill switch.

Wasn't the greatest fit, or job for that matter, but it is a SUBSTANTIAL UPGRADE. The load balancing is apparent when drilling a 1/2" hole directly with no pilot holes:

Also I can mill almost twice as fast due to the spindle maintaining its RPM's due to the load felt on the bit.

It cost me 1 evening, a resistor, kill switch, and a single 10A fuse. WELL worth the upgrade.

[MrWild]

Who sells the resister? I just humped on a klbc-19pm for $21.30 delivered. The resister it comes with is rated at 1/10 - 1/20hp

[dertsap]

got mine from this guy but he's not doing orders till after feb 6 http://myworld.ebay.com/controlledau...id=p4340.l2559

[nateman_doo]

Who sells the resister? I just humped on a klbc-19pm for $21.30 delivered. The resister it comes with is rated at 1/10 - 1/20hp

Here's the replaceble "Power Resistor"
Use P/N 9841 for 1/2 HP X2 Mini Mill.
Use P/N 9842 for 3/4 HP X3 Small Mill
They are very cheap, on ebay or on Solid State Drives - KB Electronics & Penta Power - FREE Shipping

They had the part and shipped with no problems.

[Al_The_Man]

Who sells the resister? I just humped on a klbc-19pm for $21.30 delivered. The resister it comes with is rated at 1/10 - 1/20hp

Do you have a Baldor rep in your area, the Baldor drive is a relabeled KB, and my local rep stocks all the values.
Al.