[FannBlade]

Actually I did not cut the spline into the hole at all and it is simply a close fitting round hole that sorta grips the shaft with varying pressure based on how tight the horizontal allen bolt is.

I'll take a picture of it later today, although mine has seen many years of use and abuse so it's nothing pretty like your incredible machine anymore.

OK I get it now.
Believe me I can wait to start abusing mine! As much as I enjoy doing the conversion...I'm done enjoying the conversion. Ready to use it.
Plus I want to get started on the 48 x 48 router build.

[Flateric]

I just completed my router build. So I guess I am ahead of you there, but way behind in the 3in1 conversion. So this makes us even? LOL

My camera will not power up. I am working on a solution, have not forgotten ya.

[FannBlade]

I just completed my router build. So I guess I am ahead of you there, but way behind in the 3in1 conversion. So this makes us even? LOL

My camera will not power up. I am working on a solution, have not forgotten ya.

Awesome. Do you have a build log on your router build?

[ninefinger]

Thanks
Interesting point. That is my biggest complaint with this machine is the VERY poor quality finish on the ways and gib adjustment is crude and ineffective. I will see if I can borrow a power scraper. Now you got me thinking I could have it ground first then scrape it. Time to call in more favors.

That there is the reason I sold my 3-in-1 (that I decapitated down to just a lathe).
2 big design flaws on the gibs:
1. The cross slide is a tapered gib - good right? Except the locks for it act on the sliding surface and gouge it all up if left in contact at all (gib is stationary with saddle and the cross slide - well - slides - and the locks are in it....) - my solution here was to adjust the tapered gib to tight / very tight to handle milling forces and remove the locking screws....
2. The main saddle gibs are not the tapered type. They use coarse thread set screws to adjust.... readjust daily... (sorry - I never made an easy fix for that one...) perhaps make a pair of tapers that can fit in the space (or open up the gib space to allow a pair of tapers to fit in?)

Good luck with your build - looking real nice so far.

Mike

[FannBlade]

That there is the reason I sold my 3-in-1 (that I decapitated down to just a lathe).
2 big design flaws on the gibs:
1. The cross slide is a tapered gib - good right? Except the locks for it act on the sliding surface and gouge it all up if left in contact at all (gib is stationary with saddle and the cross slide - well - slides - and the locks are in it....) - my solution here was to adjust the tapered gib to tight / very tight to handle milling forces and remove the locking screws....
2. The main saddle gibs are not the tapered type. They use coarse thread set screws to adjust.... readjust daily... (sorry - I never made an easy fix for that one...) perhaps make a pair of tapers that can fit in the space (or open up the gib space to allow a pair of tapers to fit in?)

Good luck with your build - looking real nice so far.

Mike

#1. Correct looks like it was made with a 24 grit grinder. Taper screw tighten all the way and still has ton of play it need to be .020-.050 thicker. Then of course the adj screw on the side like you mentioned just cranks it against saddle and that is if you have it positioned right otherwise only one hits it
VERY poor design.

#2 Saddle not to bad but is hard to adj. and I tend to just tighten it snug and let it drag. Then when you tighten the "locking" set screws it over tightens it.

VERY close to giving up on the mill head (err drill press).

The only real plus is only needing 3 steppers and electronic for both setups.

This is why I was thinking Linear rails to get rid of all the side play that just rocks around during milling.

Can't stop thinking about the Tormach 1100. I'm very close to hitting the BUY button. Heck even a G0704 would make my mill look like a jigsaw.

Any more thoughts on linear rails for both axis??
Even with the screw drags (so very slightly) every revolution shouldn't move the cross slide enough you can feel it on the part.

If I knew the rails would work I would just make a new saddle and table as that would make it easier to mount trucks and ball screws.

I'm so deep into this thing now I feel I just can't let it beat me!

"hindsight" Remember you get what you pay for and to fix what you have will cost a fortune.
Wish I would have never sold my South Bend!

[FannBlade]

OK got the pump installed today to lube the bearing. Works really well and no more oil leaking past the felt wipers.
Due to casting layout I was unable to use the dual line setup so just went to center of shaft. I wish I had a window to make sure it's lubing the bearing I guess only time will tell.


Pump turned off also allows me to see oil level.




Turned on and flowing new life to the bearings!


Now that I now it works I will need to make a cover for it.
For those that are wondering the pump is a Swiftech for water cooling PC's it as the EK aftermarket pump housing to increase flow. Had it from a previous PC build.
Wasn't real sure it would pump oil especially with the magnetic impeller.

[Mad Welder]

Looking good as always and love the tidy pump!

[FannBlade]

Quick update I bought a C11T from jid2 for very good price and ordered the pulse generator form CNC4PC.




Had tough time getting it goind due to poor documentation. Took me awile to figure out it needed two power runs even though it makes since that is how opti isolator works.
In the manual only shows to hookup one power run.


But as you can see I got it going. Bottom right of card is temporarily mounted pulse card.
I have no idea if it is accurate but was pretty easy to get going.


Cool LED's!


Temporary pulse disk cut to see if it worked. I have RPM reading to bad I can't use the lathe anymore. LOL


Now to make new pulleys and mount something similar to the spinde shaft. I will probably just cut it and the pulley in one piece.

[Mad Welder]

It looks like you have only one 5V power supply and linked the optoisolated supply connection, so does this mean you don't have the pulse bob supplied with a separate isolated power supply or am I missing something?

[FannBlade]

Guess I'm not sure. The Input rail I have it hooked to on the C11T says it's optoisolated.
Do I need more than one 5v PSU? If I understand the theory right the card just needs 2 sources of 5v to turn the card on, but I really have no idea.
You are right pulse bob is jumped off C11T do you think it needs it's own separate supply? I planed on running it's power directly from the 5v psu instead of jumping off the BOB.
Getting ready to order a 12v psu so I could easily grab another 5v.

Also ordered a tach off amazon so i can check and see how accurate the pulse card is reading.

[Mad Welder]

I'm using the C32 bob and in ways it's similar to the C11T, but with the C32 PDF it does quite clearly state a separate 5V power supply is required to supply to the Optoisolated circuit.

I just looked up the specs of your bob CNC4PC and for the analogue 0-10V this is what it says “It has an optoisolated analog 0-10VDC output......”

And yes to your question you need two separate 5V PSU's one to power the Circuitry on the C11T and a separate 5V to supply power to the Optoisolated circuitry

• Is this where you have taken power for your pulse bob?
• Did you just take the power suply from the C11 as the pulse bob requires a larger power supply than the 5V power supply that you have?
• And does your pulse bob need to be Optoisolated?

Now this is where my understanding becomes a bit fuzzy I understand that two separate power supplies are required but not sure why, and also I’m not sure why it is important to keep components’ isolated from each other. This also seem to complicate grounding issues too as you’ve seen in the latest advice I got in my thread.

[FannBlade]

Looked at the PDF for yours and definitely talks more about general hook up then mine does. I agree not sure why it needs 2 power sources but it will make it easy to power card on and off.
Ordered another 5v and a 12v to power to 10v analog out.
Thanks for keeping me on my toes! Must have been an "oversight".....

[Mad Welder]

..... an "oversight".....

aaahhhh those darn oversights just pop up anywhere


and speaking of the the analogue zero to ten volt DC (0-10VDC) which is one of the advantages like your bob I've been thinking about that and how when a bob is only powered by a 5V supply can you then get upto 10V output to control the VFD??

[FannBlade]

Latest update:
Got another 5v and a 12v PSU for the 10v analog out.
Moved things around yet again. I don't dare clean up wiring because it seems to change every week.



Made a big decision today. I'm going to move lathe into the room I originally planed earlier until an "oversight" on door width wouldn't allow it to fit.
I need to separate all the dirty work from the clean. So got some cabinets moved in today I going to grab counter top next week. Also will need to run all new electrical service and install plugs and lighting runs.

Dark side: Lathe will need to come completely apart and enclosure will need to be cut off! I will need to figure a new way to mount it up via bolts...during this time I will complete full enclosure (after all I just spent $5.00 on a new coolant tank) and repaint repair and new parts.

Bright side: I can fix the crappy white on the lathe bed.
Closer to internet signal and I will have cable for a TV,every hard working hobbiest should have cable in the shop.

I just refilled spindle housing with new spindle oil Friday...now I need to drain it again.

[arizonavideo]

It might be easier to pull the door frame if it is a newer house if that would let it fit. 8 nails and some caulking is all that holds them.

[FannBlade]

It might be easier to pull the door frame if it is a newer house if that would let it fit. 8 nails and some caulking is all that holds them.

I wish.
It's concrete block wall with concrete header holding up concrete I beams that support concrete floor of my sun room. Don't think I didn't give it some though. LOL
Whats more important stupid wall or my lathe. Wife thought wall was of more interest.

Did forget to tell about my e-stop problem. After I moved everything and installed new power supplies. I fired up the PC and BOB check all LED's and they looked good. Fired up Mach3 released e-stop and click e-stop on screen and it would not go off....check e-stop LED and it worked in conjunction with e-stop.

Check Mach3 settings again-checked wiring-checked Mach3 this went on for about an hour to the point I was just about ready to re-install Mach3 and pull all wiring just to make sure. Heck it was just working.........OK I will tighten all wires on more time, That is when I saw the printer cord laying in the bottom of cabinet. Geez are you kidding me! Pluged it in turned it all off and went in the house.

[legendboy]

Next day or so I will put in a separate ground rod off my panel here in the garage, not sure it's needed but will make me feel better since the run back to the house is 125'.

Would this not have the potential to create a ground loop between your house and garage? Could be dangerous

[FannBlade]

I don't know. I will have to check into that. Didn't know I could create a ground loop with 2 ground rods. I read here someone solved VFD problem with one...but not sure if he had just one or more.
Thanks I will have to look into it. I create enough "danger" on my own without purposely adding to it.

[Mad Welder]

Aw man that sucks.....just when you're near your goal rippin the whole thing apart and also to have to cut that lovely custom cabinet.......

[FannBlade]

No I won't need to cut into anything blue. Just cut rear section off it actually hang over back of base.
I'm going to jump on it hard should just take few days. (sounded good didn't it)