[KOC62]

No, I didn't use a printed circuit board.

I just hand-wired mine on a small piece of board and mounted it in a 4inch square electrical box. The outlet box also contains a regular electrical outlet. I use 1/8 inch jacks to connect the zero-crossing output and the Arduino pulse for the triac trigger.

[AnonCh4rl1]

No, I didn't use a printed circuit board.

I just hand-wired mine on a small piece of board and mounted it in a 4inch square electrical box. The outlet box also contains a regular electrical outlet. I use 1/8 inch jacks to connect the zero-crossing output and the Arduino pulse for the triac trigger.

Cool, Is the zero crossing built into the opto-isolator, I have some power supply boards with opto-isolators but they only have 4 pins, Am I right in thinking the ones with zero crossing detection are 6 pins?

[KOC62]

I used the H11AA1 opto-isolator for my zero crossing detector, which has two LEDs built-in to handle both AC cycle swings. Most opto-isolators use a single LED.Attachment 197196

[AnonCh4rl1]

Can anyone kindly post a simple list of materials for a 220V version?

I'm looking at the original schematic but think you guys have used different / upgraded components for some things, So I don't want to write a shopping list, get the parts and find I need different value resistors and such.

[AnonCh4rl1]

So I've Etched my first board and put this together, I'm just waiting on the MOC and PC817 opto-couplers and a potentiometer to arrive and I should be all set.

I've got the software side working with liquid crystal library, my lcd just uses 2 wires for data and 2 for power. I've got to figure out if I can use a optical tachometer instead of the sucky hall sensor but I can work on that later.

I've just re-read this thread and the standalone stuff one of you guys posted is really good, I wish I'd built that. I would rather have ribbon cables on this rather than it being a shield, And I wish I was good at eagle because I'd make the zero cross run from 240, because with a 12v transformer there will be some phase shift due to the inductance of the coil. I think the OP used 12v because the arduino external power is suggester 9-12v DC and I suppose you can use the same power supply for both the Arduino power and the Zero cross if the power supply is tapped in the right places.

Anyway If I can figure Eagle out I will make redraw the original board with bigger solder pads for some components and bigger footprint for a bigger triac, with more spacing between the tracks because it seems quite tight on this board for a 13amp 220v Triac.

[KOC62]

Regarding the zero crossing detector, you can do it without a transformer. As I mentioned I used the H11AA1 without a transformer. You will need to be sure about wiring directly to a 240AC circuit and follow good wiring practice.
I used two 1/2W, 10K resistors in series, for a total of 20K for a 120VAC line. This provides about 6ma of current to the H11AA1 opto-isolator diodes. I used two resistors, rather than one, so that pins 1 and 2 of the H11AA1 are not directly connected to an AC line but each pin has a resistor to the opposite line input.
For 240VAC you will need to double the resistance and double the wattage rating for the resistors, (i.e. two 20K 1Watt each, resistors). If the resistors feel too hot then you will need to increase the wattage, say use 2 watt resistors instead of 1 watt, but keep the total resistance at 40K ohms for 6ma of ac current. The diodes can handle up to 60 ma for the H11AA1 but the resistor's power consumption will increase to over 14 watts with no benefit of performance.

[AnonCh4rl1]

Regarding the zero crossing detector, you can do it without a transformer. As I mentioned I used the H11AA1 without a transformer. You will need to be sure about wiring directly to a 240AC circuit and follow good wiring practice.
I used two 1/2W, 10K resistors in series, for a total of 20K for a 120VAC line. This provides about 6ma of current to the H11AA1 opto-isolator diodes. I used two resistors, rather than one, so that pins 1 and 2 of the H11AA1 are not directly connected to an AC line but each pin has a resistor to the opposite line input.
For 240VAC you will need to double the resistance and double the wattage rating for the resistors, (i.e. two 20K 1Watt each, resistors). If the resistors feel too hot then you will need to increase the wattage, say use 2 watt resistors instead of 1 watt, but keep the total resistance at 40K ohms for 6ma of ac current. The diodes can handle up to 60 ma for the H11AA1 but the resistor's power consumption will increase to over 14 watts with no benefit of performance.

Thank you for this I was wondering how to calculate the correct values for AC, because obviously 220 Volt is RMS value and Ohms law is great in theory could have cost me a few opto-couplers figuring it out. I have a good selection of 2 watt resistors and will give it a try because the power supply I have for the Arduino is in a nice plastic case inside my box, I don't want to hack it apart really.

When you say in series do you mean two resistors in series on the Live and 2 on the neutral? So if one were to fail or be shorted it would give more protection?

I've seen a diagram of what is basically this PIDSPINO simplified here:

Attachment 202604


Anyway thanks for your help.

[Al_The_Man]

Your H11L1 should be protected with a 11v zener, see the Fairchild App note AN-3006 fig3.
Or in your case 4n25.
You do not really need 2 resistors in the AC supply, one will work.
Al.

[KOC62]

Attachment 202606

As Al said you can use 1 resistor. I explained why I used two. It's your call. For me much has to do with what is available in my junkbox.
I didn't use a zener, probably because the resistors limit the current and I haven't had an issue.
The use of the H11AA1 eliminates the diode bridge since it has two LED diodes inside the package. This device and circuit is used by many in the Christmas Lighting hobby with no known problems.


Edit: Here is another example for 120VAC;
http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/ACPhaseControl

[AnonCh4rl1]

Attachment 202606

As Al said you can use 1 resistor. I explained why I used two. It's your call. For me much has to do with what is available in my junkbox.
I didn't use a zener, probably because the resistors limit the current and I haven't had an issue.
The use of the H11AA1 eliminates the diode bridge since it has two LED diodes inside the package. This device and circuit is used by many in the Christmas Lighting hobby with no known problems.


Edit: Here is another example for 120VAC;
Arduino Playground - ACPhaseControl

Thanks for this,

I got one more stupid question, Are you using a logarythmic or linear pot to adjust speed? I'm pretty new to electronics to be honest and I don't know which one to get for this application, the pidspino diagram simply says 10k pot.

[KOC62]

It will be a linear pot.
I have not yet done the Arduino firmware and rpm sensor feedback due to other projects getting a higher priority.

[AnonCh4rl1]

Ive connected up 2x 38k resistors in parallel on both the live and neutral going into the Bridge rectifier, I couldn't fina a big enough 20k the resistors are at-least 1w or more likely 2w each I can't tell.

Anyway measuring with my multimeter on AC I get 214v Across the (DC) output of the bridge rectifier and dc 100V,

I tried putting another 38k resistor on each leg of the DC side of the bridge but still got the same / similar readings, What is going on?

Is it ok to continue and connect up the zero cross detection PC817 with a zener for protection or Am I missing something, I thought the voltage would drop across the resistors,

Could it be my Bridge rectifier is not a full wave rectifier or its faulty? (it didn't explode or get hot)

Or is this some electonics voodoo that means when connected to a load in a full circuit it will behave properly with a lower voltage?

[Al_The_Man]

You will not see any voltage difference until a load (current) is attached.
Al.

[KOC62]

Your meter is the load since it has an input resistance, even if it is high.

You could put a regular diode, like a 1N4004, across the DC output of the bridge to simulate the opto-isolator diode just to see what voltage you get across this diode. The anode of the diode must be connected to the positive side of the bridge output and the cathode is connected to the negative of the bridge rectifier. With the diode in place you should measure the voltage across the parallel 38K resistors and measure about 120VAC. This means about 6.3ma of current is flowing through the bridge rectifier. Now remove the 1N4004 diode and connect your bridge rectifier output to the opto-isolator.

[AnonCh4rl1]

Thanks you guys you are legends, actually I have destroyed my arduino, Basically this is my first ever home made PCB and I had the iron on a little too hot and some of the toner would not come off the board after it had been etched, even soaked in acetone and Rubbing alcohol, so I used it anyway and it made for some poor solder joints, add that to my less than perfect drilling and Use of thick industrial solder for plumbing and The MOC chip had large beads of solder on the legs which arced across to that stupid line separating the High Voltage from low voltage, from there it shorted to the 5v or gorund line and killed my arduino.

Anyway I have plenty of spares to make another, board while I await for a new arduino, I have been learning eagle and adjusted the design somewhat, When I can figure out how to tidy up my ratsnest It should be ideal, I actually have a BTA41-600B a 40 amp Triac but it requires something like 75ma switching current which I think is over the max for the MOC, Anyway I do not like the idea of running 220v at near 10A on the Original design as the legs of the Triac are not sufficiently spaced without Stagering, So in my eagle design I have put the footprint of the BTA41 in there and will solder leads (with heatshrink) into the holes for the BTA but I will use the original Triac. This will give flexibility to the heat-syncing and orientation of the Triac. I have also added screw terminals for power connections and fattened the traces all round.

Anyway my eagle designs are a modification of the MMCP42s work, I will post them when I get it sorted out.


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink


Attachment 203562

[AnonCh4rl1]

A modification of MMCP42s Eagle files.

PIDSPINOmodified


Changlog:

Added 2x Arduino mega pins for 2 (4 wire inc power) wire LCDs,
Added screw terminals for Motor power and 12v,
Increased track size throughout,
Added bigger Triac footprint, its mirrored in Eagle for reverse mounting, can be changed if desired.,
Added differently mounted resistors, (originals were 1/6w sparkfun with little spacing.)
Added larger cap for non polar caps.
Probably broke it, Definitely needs reviewing by someone that's been using eagle for more than a few hours!


To Do;
Get reviewed it by someone,
Sort wires to 12v screw terminal,
Make A pdf to print

[AnonCh4rl1]

PIDSPINOmodified .zip containing .sch .brd and pdfs

https://www.dropbox.com/s/opn1otr3wm...IDModified.zip






PDFs only;

Straight up pdf;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/no7odsoq13...IDModified.pdf

mirrored pdf;

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m3mos4kyh1...fiedmirror.pdf

[KOC62]

When I printed the eagle board it didn't fit on my Arduino Uno. Does Eagle not print actual size?

[doorknob]

Eagle does print boards actual size.

I'm not sure whether there is a checkbox that you have to check in the print dialog in order to do it, but I have often printed circuit board layouts to toner transfer paper directly from Eagle.

edit: Looking at the print dialog now, I see area set to 'full' and scale factor set to 1.

[AnonCh4rl1]

mine pictured above was printed from the original pdf on github, was perfect size for Arduino mega, except i had to drill a big hole in it for my LCD pins.