[KOC62]

Sorry about the false alarm of mine. It does fit. I also checked it with my calipers this morning.

Last night I somehow didn't get the board oriented right and just eye-balling it made me think it was off.
I should have gone to bed and not quickly try things late at night and scare AnonCh4rl1 like that.

[AnonCh4rl1]

Sorry about the false alarm of mine. It does fit. I also checked it with my calipers this morning.

Last night I somehow didn't get the board oriented right and just eye-balling it made me think it was off.
I should have gone to bed and not quickly try things late at night and scare AnonCh4rl1 like that.

Are you Making a board from the files I've posted then? That's brave! very brave.

I removed the ground payne from the design, I do not fully understand what I'm doing in eagle so I dont know how that will affect things.

I noticed with the files I posted above the Tracks do not seem much bigger at all, I increased them yet again before printing them and taking them to be photocopied, I will update the above files shortly.

[KOC62]

No, I'm not ready to build a board.

[AnonCh4rl1]

Attachment 203934

Attachment 203936

Attachment 203938

Attachment 203940


This is the new board, realised the screw terminals I added in Eagle have smaller spacing but was able to modify with some nail varnish before etching.

I am still awaiting my new Arduino, I just wired up this board and it gives 240v output even when I remove the jumper from the pins for the power switch, obviously theres the Capacitor and resistor across both lives But with only a multimeter I have no idea how I would test if the triac is toast and passing current. I will have to wait for my arduino and wire it up to my lathe motor and see what the deal it.

[Lula5Nash]

When I printed the eagle board it didn't fit on my Arduino Uno. Does Eagle not print actual size?

[AnonCh4rl1]

Just an update, I have my new Arduino and I got the board flashing a 220v lead light, I found that the BT139 I had was toast, it was just letting current like 0.03 ohms or something between power terminals with nothing going to the gate. I put in the BTA41 - 40amp beast and the light also stayed on, I was confused and thought there was a short, but I uploaded the basic arduino blink example on pin 5 and sure enough that Lead light flashed, so I will have to go over pin assignments and code 2moz. I just re-read this and noticed mention that the thing wont work without an rpm sensor, The board has some strange features now i come to play with it, The switch seems to only turn off the indicator LED and maybe the zero crossing signal, surely a better idea would be to switch the feed to the MOC Optocoupler or power to the whole arduino directly, I would not rely on that as your only switch on any kind of industrial machine, if there's a fault on the board the MOC and Triac can still fire.

[straga]

How is work? Look good.


Sent from my LT18i using Tapatalk

[mayboy008]

Can you give me some information about RPM sensor? Your link you give here is inaccessible. Thanks!

[recep89]

Hi friends I want to do this project. But could not figure out how you can help the CON11 connentor work?

[KOC62]

Hi friends I want to do this project. But could not figure out how you can help the CON11 connentor work?

You need to provide, say a 3V to 5V positive going pulse to con11.pins 1 & 2 This pulse will trigger the triac to turn it ON.

[recep89]

You need to provide, say a 3V to 5V positive going pulse to con11.pins 1 & 2 This pulse will trigger the triac to turn it ON.

Does the need to give 5V connector CON11 ?

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[KOC62]

Does the need to give 5V connector CON11 ?

For example, if you use an Arduino, it will provide the pulse to CON11. You don't apply 5V to the CON11.

[recep89]

For example, if you use an Arduino, it will provide the pulse to CON11. You don't apply 5V to the CON11.

I got it , thank you for the information you gave on

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[acilin1]

excuse my ignorance...in the end what should be connected to CON 11 ? and the sensor is connected to the J - HLS - 1 ?

[KOC62]

excuse my ignorance...in the end what should be connected to CON 11 ? and the sensor is connected to the J - HLS - 1 ?

CON 11:
Needs a pulse to fire the triac. This pulse comes from the Arduino controller.
J-HLS-1:
Needs a pulse from the sensor to indicate that the motor rotated 360 degrees. 1 pulse for every motor shaft revolution.

[acilin1]

excuse me but do not understand...That means do not connect anything to con 11 connections are already on the pcb? must put a switch? ...

[KOC62]

excuse me but do not understand...That means do not connect anything to con 11 connections are already on the pcb? must put a switch? ...

No.
Connectors are used to connect something from another device. In this case, it means that your speed sensor connects to J-HLS-1 so that the Arduino can calculate at what RPM the motor is turning.

[acilin1]

yes to con j-hls-1 i connecting the rpm sensor but to con 11 What should I connect?

[KOC62]

yes to con j-hls-1 i connecting the rpm sensor but to con 11 What should I connect?

I didn't look at the pcb. Taking another look at the schematic it looks he uses D5 port from the Arduino to provide the trigger for the triac.
If this connection is already on the pcb then you don't need to connect anything to this connector. It would be a method to connect an other trigger source than the Arduino.

I never finished building this project, and I don't have a pcb either.
Sorry if I confused you with my previous comments. I didn't notice the D5 line before, which I assume is on the pcb.

[acilin1]

someone can tell me what voltage have the capacitors in the original scheme?