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IndustryArena Forum > OpenSource CNC Design Center > Open Source Controller Boards > open source Atmel/arduino PID motor control
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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    157
    I was curious on making the opto coupler with shrink wrap for wire and the right components. Not cost effective but a good learning experience

  2. #42
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    Aug 2006
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    157
    he is from latvia, it is setup for 220, is taht the reason for the two triacs? we have 110 here so maybe thats why we would only need one

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    157
    ok i have to order a couple peices, or go to my local electro used parts store, I am curious on how he gets the 12 volts, is it 12 volts ac or what. I know the bridge rectifier is converting it so i assume a/c i am learning as i go here and looking at the peices needed. I think i am going to just go ebay and spend about 30 bucks. I can get about 50 of each item IE the traic ect for that much so that way mayebi can build a few extra circuit for my lathe speed and mill. I will wait to order anything till i hear from ya mike on the fact he uses 220 and what we need on that end for 110

    thanks

    tim

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    23

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    thanks orkki
    that fills in a few gaps very nicely

    timmy
    I still don't see where you get the second triac - which one is it in the circuit?

    cheers
    Mike

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    157
    i see now dont know how i got stuck on 2 triacs, thinking its the terminology are u still thinking of using his diagram or one u come up with yourself? i have about 70% of the peices i need scrounging up the rest this week

    I was going to load his libraries and get his code to compile. I did not load his libraries yet

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    I got the circuit into EAGLE and laid out the PCB
    it's single sided
    there is a "hole" in the Arduino box as we don't actually want an Arduino on the shield!
    I did place it to align the headers, then removed it

    there's also a PDF of the PCB in case you don't have EAGLE

    caveat emptor:
    a) it's free and worth every penny you paid for it
    b) it's untested
    c) shamelesssly copied from the work of others

    enjoy!

    PS if anyone finds any of the intentional errors - so let me know!
    cheers
    Mike




    zip files

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    PS
    I'm looking at the LCD boards next
    I think there is a mistake in the boards on github
    the A and K pins are flipped
    be very careful out there!

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    Okay guys nice work so far..
    First thanks God I know arduino and i can work. I also know about little electronics...

    Now my plan,
    1- Make a standalone Controller board with ATMEGA 328P-PU chip installed
    2- Using 3-wire LCD and 5-keys keypad (DIY)
    3- The parameters can be changed with Menu driven interface

    Further i am living in a part of world where we have 220VAC so needs help..How can we use BT139 with 220VAC?
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    hello Khalid
    i'm 220 volts also
    bt139 is rated 800 volts
    should be enough??

    adding the parts for a stand-alone shouldn't be too hard

    I look forward to seeing your circuit!

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    157
    i am 110 so i will figure that out, standalone should be easy i agree also.

    Mike i am curious if i can just buy an octocoupler with a triac built in, Again i am not an expert but learning the best i can. Thanks for all the help. I am currently planning on copying the thread starters circuit for now so i can learn how it works then perhaps change. My end plan is to remove the chip from the arduino also. I have done that before so should not be an issue for me.

    Since your both 220 i am curious if either know what i would have to change for 110. From my reading it doesnt look like anything really.

    Tim

    like a MOC 30043 with triac

    edit i see the MOC3043 doesnt have enough amperage

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by timmyb199 View Post
    i am 110 so i will figure that out, standalone should be easy i agree also.

    Mike i am curious if i can just buy an octocoupler with a triac built in, Again i am not an expert but learning the best i can. Thanks for all the help. I am currently planning on copying the thread starters circuit for now so i can learn how it works then perhaps change. My end plan is to remove the chip from the arduino also. I have done that before so should not be an issue for me.

    Since your both 220 i am curious if either know what i would have to change for 110. From my reading it doesnt look like anything really.

    Tim

    like a MOC 30043 with triac

    edit i see the MOC3043 doesnt have enough amperage
    lower mains voltage isn't a problem as such
    just that you will need higher current for the same power
    so just check the current rating of the triac
    BT139 is rated 2 amps = 200 watts at 110 volts

    BTA08 is rated 8 amps = 800 watts at 110 volts

    what sort of spindle are you looking to drive?

  13. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    157
    My "spindle" is a Rigid router. I cant imagine it pulling more that 8 amps. The websites posted earlier today are really helping me understand what the circuit is doing. Only thing i dont understand is the 12 volt side. I know why its thre but unsure where he is getting the 12 volts.

  14. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    take a look at the link posted by orkki on the previous page
    Using Hardware Interrupts to Control A.C. Power with Arduino

    there needs to be a 12 volt transformer in there

  15. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    I've updated the circuitry:
    a) to include the LCD
    b) to add a DIAC

    any interest?

  16. #56
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    157
    Quote Originally Posted by mmcp42 View Post
    I've updated the circuitry:
    a) to include the LCD
    b) to add a DIAC

    any interest?
    sure that be great, i kinda knew how to add the lcd. but id be happy to look at another schematic. I apologize i did not see a 12 volt transformer in the circuitry. my mistake

    thanks

    tim

    P.S i downloaded eagle so i dunno if u have a file i can look at in that either

  17. #57
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    EAGLE files on the previous page
    I'll upload the LCD circuits in the morning
    it's sleepy o'clock now
    gnite
    Mike

  18. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    157
    Instead of the opto couplers and triac could we use a SSR?

    Like this is for 110. It's 5 bucks. But might simplify circuit

    http://www.sharpsma.com/webfm_send/313

  19. #59
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    157
    I also found this which uses the arduino for the cross checking

    AC Dimmer Circuit

  20. #60
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    here's the zip of the EAGLE files with LCD added
    rather than including the LCD itself on the shield I have shown a 16-pin header

    do check the A and K connections, the original (from OP github) had them the wrong way round

    I've also attached the files without the LCD
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SpindlePidLcdCopper.bmp  
    Attached Files Attached Files

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