[timmyb199]

I was pondering ordering the MOC 3023 instead of the MOC 3021 I was going to order a few for future projects . the only difference i see is that the 21 fires the led at 5ma while the 23 is 15 ma does anyone have an opinion on this

thanks guys

I should have all the peices at the latest nex monday. so hopefully one of us will have pics of a working model soon now that there are 3 going at it

Tim

[timmyb199]

Ok since i am new at electronics i decided to go through the circuit so i understand it. I then decided to post it here so perhaps others can learn

So first lets look at what we want o accomplish (i may not be correct looking for others input on my rudementary understanding)

We have a hobby router and want to be able to control the Router. I have a small rigid router.

on Digital Pin 4 the arduino is sending a signal to an octocoupler

Octocouplers are used for "Galvanic seperation" In laymen terms it keeps the low voltage microcontroller side of things seperated from the live 110 or 220 volts

An octocouple works in this manner.

It has an led in it that flashes or turns on a steady brihgness that is picked up by a phototransister. Like the lights you may have on your house that detect motion but this detects light. Think of it like driving into your driveway at night with the headlights off and pulling up to your garage. Your garage has a light sensor. when u turn your headlights on it pens the garage door. You want the sensor to do it instead of hooking 110v to the body of your car and dying.

so the arduino flashes the LED in the optocoupler which creates a circuit allowing voltage to flow through a TRIAC.

The TRIAC is basically a relay. It can hanlde more amperage than the optocoupler.


So the 3volts from Arduino turns on the Optocoupler switch , which then turns on the Triac switch. allowing 110v to flow and turn your router on.


Then there is zero crossing detection. which i am reading about now .......................

[timmyb199]

here's the zip of the EAGLE files with LCD added
rather than including the LCD itself on the shield I have shown a 16-pin header

do check the A and K connections, the original (from OP github) had them the wrong way round

I've also attached the files without the LCD

hate to be a pain but do u have one with the components labeled. IM going throgh it by hand but want to make sure i have it right

[mmcp42]

Eagle uses layers, if you show the tName layer you will see the names, tValues shows the values

[mmcp42]

Now
if I was building this from scratch, especially if I was brewing my own 'duino, I'd change some of the pin assignments
currently there's no (easy) way to upload software to the chip

so
I'd free up D1 so we could use D0 D1 for FTDI comms
I'd also look at freeing up D11, D12 and D13 so we can use ISP
simple enough to change the hardware and the software
I wonder why the pins used were chosen?!?

[mmcp42]

here's my attempt on a stand-alone
pins re-assigned
a) to make routing easier
b) to free up SPI
c) to free up FTDI

enjoy

[timmyb199]

Thanks for the work mike

I ordered 10 of everything on the board. Inlcuding 5 atmega chips with sockets. I spend a whopping 65 dollars lol. I agree on the pins. My plan was to remove the chip to my uno board for programming. But your approach is good also. I should have everything end of week or next week. I am going to try to make the pcbs using the laser etching method.

If it works and anyone want a board ect i bought extra stuff since i have a lathe, mill, plasma and a few other hoebuilt things laying around. I am really glad i found this thread. I havent posted on cnczone for years. Since i built one of my machines probably 6-7 years ago. I also ordered all my stuff for the 3d print head i been wanting to do.

This thread should get exciting soon. Whats your plan for building mike. Are u gonna do the pcb you designed or the newer with easier updating of the chip.

I also designed my box to have an outlet. So that way i can plug other things into the control. I am going the route of a led rpm. That way a painted white line can do the control.

See ya soon

Tim

[mmcp42]

I will use the "new" pins on a standalone board. Tell me more about laser etching. I'll put up the full eagle files later
Cheers
Mike

[mmcp42]

ok
here's my contribution
zip with EAGLE files for a stand alone controller
do run the ratsnest command to lay down the ground plane before you etch

this board:
a) untested
b) on-board PTH Arduino
c) untested
d) FTDI
e) untested
f) ISP
g) untested
h) pins shuffled to make it easier to route the board
i) untested
j) sensor deliberately vague
- uses analog pin
- allows for IR or Hall effect
- allows for temperature sensor
k) untested
l) single sided
m) did I mention - untested

you WILL need to change the software to match the pins used

I have allowed for 3.5mm screw terminals for the heavy duty mains connections
I have allowed for smaller screw terminals for external components
- M3 interface
- M3/Manual switch
- On switch
- sensor
- 12 volts AC for zero crossing detection

FTDI and ISP are simply headers as you won't be changing the software all the time (will you?)
the LCD is brought out to a 16-pin (ok 2 8-pin) header
you could just use a suitable screw-connector if you prefer

I will almost certainly use this for a reflow oven controller
but the same principal will work for a spindle controller

if anyone has any comments or feedback I would be delighted
caveat emptor
enjoy
YMMV

and finally
THERE ARE LETHAL MAINS VOLTAGES ON THIS BOARD
IF YOU KILL YOURSELF DON'T COME RUNNING TO ME!

[timmyb199]

man that is great work mike, I take it your not building one for a cnc control. I really like how this board will be able to be used for so much. By just changing the triacs for more or less power.

I am hoping to also use it as a heat controller for my 3d printer i finnally collected all the peices for and for the router speed.

I will post build pics when i get all the peices from digi key. It will also be my first etch of a pcb board. I am not sure if i am goingt o try the laser printer etch method or just mill it on my grilly. Guess trial and error will see

thanks for the Eagle input mike. I am new to this so I am glad you came along to help

I was curious if you could better explaint to me how the zero cross works, And if i can use 12 volt dc instead of a transformer then the rectifier.

Thanks

Tim

[mmcp42]

Tim
first off you can't use 12 volts DC, that defeats the whole purpose of the entire project!

the zero crossing part works by raising an interrupt every time the AC crosses zero (hence the catchy name)
you need this as the code will set a delay from the zero cross point before firing the triac
that's how it controls the speed

to go faster fire earlier
to go slower fire later

the triac turns itself off when the voltage drops to zero
so it needs to be turned on again every half cycle

hope that made some sort of sense!

[timmyb199]

yes sorry for the dumb question.

I assumed the 12 volt ac transformer, going into the bridge rectifier made it into dc. So i thought i could cut out the transformer. My bad. Again I am leraning (wedge). Thanks for all the help.

I ordered 5 pcbs. so i am goingt o experiment this weekend on etching or milling them

[Khalid]

Why are you using "12 volts AC for zero crossing detection"?. why not directly from 220VAC?

[mmcp42]

yes sorry for the dumb question.

I assumed the 12 volt ac transformer, going into the bridge rectifier made it into dc. So i thought i could cut out the transformer. My bad. Again I am leraning (wedge). Thanks for all the help.

I ordered 5 pcbs. so i am goingt o experiment this weekend on etching or milling them

there are no dumb questions!
it would be DC if it had more circuitry
the full wave bridge rectifier (4 diodes) and the following components simply give one pulse per half cycle

[mmcp42]

Why are you using "12 volts AC for zero crossing detection"?. why not directly from 220VAC?

two answers
a) cos that's what the circuit from the OP did!
b) because the lower voltage means the following circuitry only sees a much lower voltage (~17 volts max)

now, I would ask "why 12 volts"?
It must be tempting to use 5 volts AC (7 volts peak) instead which is just enough to drive a 5 volt regulator!

hmm now there's a thought!

[timmyb199]

I got my peices from digi key, i forgot to order a transformer, is there anything i can subsititute? will post pics of build tongiht

[timmyb199]

I guess the better question is the only part i dont understand is the zero cross thingy. Maybe if i better understood whats it is doing i could find a substitute. im gonna dig in my peices of electronics but seems everything i have is ac in dc out

this is interesting seems simpler will keep digging

http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/ACPhaseControl

[timmyb199]

I have an issue i am running into. I loaded the libraries but it wont compile and i get errors. I am curious when u see this mike if you got a good compile

[timmyb199]

Ok got a good compile now onto the board and circuits

[timmyb199]

Mike,

I you stop in, do you have a .pde with code with updated pins. I cant get his to compile now and after 5 hours of trying to get the lcd i have to work with his i am losing my mind. I have a 16/2 lcd. I can get it to work but not with his library. Any help would be much appreciated

Tim