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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Benchtop Machines > X3/SX3/G0619/G0463 > Build Log - Grizzly G0619 CNC Conversion
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  1. #41
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    Good progress on the control panel... Have a bit more work to get some of the buttons going, but its close...

    That box on the back of the stand is the entire computer that runs the mill...

    Scott...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8279.JPG   IMG_8278.JPG   IMG_8277.JPG   IMG_8276.JPG  

    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  2. #42
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    Coolant tank... I used a Harbor Freight parts washer for the pump and tank. Pretty sweet!

    Parts Washer : 6-1/2 Gallon Parts Washer

    I used a sink strainer under the aluminum bar to hold the pipe from the machine to catch the big chips.

    I had to turn an adapter on my lathe to adapt the pump to the 3/8" npt. Took the entire day to get this working...

    Scott...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8280.JPG   IMG_8281.JPG   IMG_8282.JPG   IMG_8283.JPG  

    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  3. #43
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    Your control box looks great and using the parts from an arcade control is brilliant. When I saw the I-PAC, I started searching for a cheaper solution and found a few instructions to hacking a usb keyboard to do a similar function:

    Dr. Monk's DIY Electronics Blog: Hack a USB Computer Keyboard to Make a Synth Pedal Board

    A note on pin layouts and shift registers

    Makes me wish I had not thrown out my old keyboards, but I could see a number of uses for the controllers (and the I-PAC).

    I also saw that you mentioned you were gonna build a board with a small relay to driver a larger one. I picked up some boards for another project on ebay which have opto-isolated relays and were pretty cheap. If you search for "arduino relay" on ebay quite a few will pop up (I am not sure if most of them are opto-isolated though). I also found one that says it will do 30A (FWIW).

    The parts washer looks cool, I am gonna check it out next time I get down to HF. The only thing I'd be concerned about is the head on that small pump. I used a similar small fountain pump from HF and it was not up to the task (though it had to push about 5' of water). In my setup the flow rate was so low it would not push chips away from the cuts. I recently picked up a much more capable sump pump which I have yet to set up since I am re-thinking the whole setup for flood coolant. It looks like that parts washer could take a larger pump upgrade too.

    I also picked up an in-line aquarium UV filter which I will use with the smaller fountain pump (probably on a timer) to circulate the coolant around so it does not get too funky (hopefully).

  4. #44
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geekus View Post
    Your control box looks great and using the parts from an arcade control is brilliant. When I saw the I-PAC, I started searching for a cheaper solution and found a few instructions to hacking a usb keyboard to do a similar function:

    Dr. Monk's DIY Electronics Blog: Hack a USB Computer Keyboard to Make a Synth Pedal Board

    A note on pin layouts and shift registers

    Makes me wish I had not thrown out my old keyboards, but I could see a number of uses for the controllers (and the I-PAC).

    I also saw that you mentioned you were gonna build a board with a small relay to driver a larger one. I picked up some boards for another project on ebay which have opto-isolated relays and were pretty cheap. If you search for "arduino relay" on ebay quite a few will pop up (I am not sure if most of them are opto-isolated though). I also found one that says it will do 30A (FWIW).

    The parts washer looks cool, I am gonna check it out next time I get down to HF. The only thing I'd be concerned about is the head on that small pump. I used a similar small fountain pump from HF and it was not up to the task (though it had to push about 5' of water). In my setup the flow rate was so low it would not push chips away from the cuts. I recently picked up a much more capable sump pump which I have yet to set up since I am re-thinking the whole setup for flood coolant. It looks like that parts washer could take a larger pump upgrade too.

    I also picked up an in-line aquarium UV filter which I will use with the smaller fountain pump (probably on a timer) to circulate the coolant around so it does not get too funky (hopefully).
    I went with the IPac cause I used it for an arcade emulator project a while ago. A lot of people that do the arcade emulators hack spare keyboards like you have found. I wanted something that I could hook up and not mess with a bunch of hacking. But, even the IPac is not ideal. You can only program it to send normal keyboard keys like "A,B,C" not Alt A, Alt B, Alt C. I'd rather be able to send non standard codes to Mach3. I've thought about building my own controller by using an Arduino Mega or a Netduino Go. Both of which I have built hardware controllers around. The IPac is working, so that project is pretty low priority!

    Thanks for the tips on the Relay! Went to ebay and bought a 30 amp Arduino Relay as soon as I read your message. Now gotta wait for the slow boat from Hong Kong I'll be using this to power my PC / Monitor up and down. My CNC control has 2 switched 20 amp relays that are currently powering my Mill and the Coolant via one of the switches on the panel.

    Also, Geekus has been helping me out a ton getting my tooling plate going via PMs. Hope to have the tooling plate mounted and in use very soon! I have the LittleMachineShop coolant catch tray mounted, now all I gotta do is finish it out by mounting the tooling tray.

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  5. #45
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    Finally got my toolplate and chip tray installed! time to start making chips!

    Many thanks to Geekus for all of his advice on pinning the table!

    Scott...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20120603_122713.jpg   20120603_134957.jpg   20120603_135005.jpg  
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  6. #46
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    VERY GOOD LOOKING chip pan!

    Sorry if I missed it, but is that the A2Z tool plate? Is it clear anodized? keep thinking about ordering one but I don't think the aluminum would stand up very long with how often I change vices and fixtures. Thought about ordering one and getting it hard anodized. What do you think of it?

    Also, are the threads tapped strait into the aluminum? I love the idea, but for the low price they couldn't have used inserts, but those threads won't last long in AL I guess for the price I could just buy another one when it wears out...

    I also just realized LMS now caries these so I could will-call and skip the shipping.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by PriddyShiddy View Post
    VERY GOOD LOOKING chip pan!

    Sorry if I missed it, but is that the A2Z tool plate? Is it clear anodized? keep thinking about ordering one but I don't think the aluminum would stand up very long with how often I change vices and fixtures. Thought about ordering one and getting it hard anodized. What do you think of it?

    Also, are the threads tapped strait into the aluminum? I love the idea, but for the low price they couldn't have used inserts, but those threads won't last long in AL I guess for the price I could just buy another one when it wears out...

    I also just realized LMS now caries these so I could will-call and skip the shipping.
    Yeah, thats the A2Z toolplate. Not sure if the plate is clear anodized, I've never seen anything that wasnt color anodized, but from the looks of the plate I would say no. The threads are tapped strait into the aluminum.

    I just got it done this weekend, so I'm not sure how I like it. It looks like its going to be a lot more flexible than the T-Slots. I've got to learn a lot about hold-down. With my CNC wood machines, I could use clamps, vaccum, tabs etc.

    Would love to hear others ideas on this!

    Cutting Scenario : Lets say, you were going to mill out a CNC motor mount. Its .75" thick, has 4 1/4" holes to mount the motor, and a big hole in the middle for the shaft / connector to run through. See attached picture.

    Never done this before, and this is what I would do.

    1: Build jig to hold down stock to table, allowing me to drill through the entire part.
    2: Fasten stock to table / jig with Milling clamps (stepped block with bar).
    3: Drill outer holes in stock.
    4: Build another jig to be fastened to the table, threaded for the 4 holes cut into the stock.
    5: Fasten the stock to the jig using 4 1/4" bolts.
    6: Cut the outer sides of the final part in multiple passes, and have 1 finish cut.

    Seems like a ton of jig building to me. And the jigs would probably have to be made out of aluminum.

    Any other ways to skin this cat without investing a ton of time and money for jigs? Seems like I could skip the first jig by drilling holes in the stock in the positions that I have holes in my toolplate, but I assume that would cause quite a bit of waste.

    Scott...
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  8. #48
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    I have been dragging my feet on editing a youtube video that happens to show MY favorite way to skin that cat. I just made it public so you can see it.

    For 1-20 parts I don't make table jigs. I throw the blank in the vice, face the blank on both top and bottom of part to desired thickness. drill the through holes. remove it from the vice. Throw a piece of scrap in the vice. face the scrap. re-zero. run the same drill program only with a drill for the corresponding tap size. tap the threads in the scrap WITHOUT REMOVING from the vice.

    now just bolt your blank with matching through holes on the scrap, set your offset to the thickness of the part. contour away. gives you EASY access to the peripheral.

    search my user name on youtube

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by PriddyShiddy View Post
    I have been dragging my feet on editing a youtube video that happens to show MY favorite way to skin that cat. I just made it public so you can see it.

    For 1-20 parts I don't make table jigs. I throw the blank in the vice, face the blank on both top and bottom of part to desired thickness. drill the through holes. remove it from the vice. Throw a piece of scrap in the vice. face the scrap. re-zero. run the same drill program only with a drill for the corresponding tap size. tap the threads in the scrap WITHOUT REMOVING from the vice.

    now just bolt your blank with matching through holes on the scrap, set your offset to the thickness of the part. contour away. gives you EASY access to the peripheral.

    search my user name on youtube
    Priddy, did a search on Youtube for your userid. Are you talking about your latest video on the wheelchair parts you made?

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  10. #50
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    Dec 2010
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    Thats the one. I started with 2 separate pieces of scrap. cut then to size on the bandsaw. put one in each vise. set G54 for the left part and G55 for the right part. cut slots, holes, and drilled all of the internal features. grabbed a couple 1"x1"x6" pieces of scrap to use as jigs to hold the parts to cut the peripheral features.

    I went overboard on the CAM for this since I had time. I drilled matching holes on the left jig and surfaced the top leaving a boss that matched the slot on that part. Then did the same for the part on the right leaving a boss that matched the 1.01" hole. Then hand (power drill) tapped threads and just mount my parts into the jig.

    This works for a LOT of parts. Just throw scrap in the vise, drill and tap matching holes, cut away.

    I'm going to shoot a video of that porter cable blowing out 3/8-16 threads and a few other tapping tricks I like soon.

  11. #51
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    Mar 2009
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    Pinning the table..

    I just found out something that may save you all a bunch of time!!

    I pinned my table using the same method that Geekus used to pin his. When I inserted the dowel pin guides in the table, I must have cut the holes a little too small, and the guides compressed. They compressed to the point that the 2" dowel rods / clover compound would just tear up the dowel rods, and it would never get to the point, even using multiple dowels that I could get them honed to accept a new dowel rod.

    I was almost going to try to remove the guides when I came up with an idea. On the first honing pass, I used the top side of a busted 1/4" carbide end-mill. The carbide is a lot harder than the dowel rod, and it worked great. After the first pass with the carbide, I used a 2" dowel rod to hone the holes. That worked great! Make sure you use a really good carbide end mill. I used a cheap one on the first try and it got chewed up. Then I used a Whiteside and it worked awesome.

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  12. #52
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    Now that I got the table pinning finished, I decided to build a plate that was pinned to the table, that would hold my small vise. The idea is that I pin the plate to the table, then square the vise to the mill. That way, every time I put the plate back on the mill it will be square, and I dont have to go through the vise setup. Should save a lot of swap out time.

    Picture 1: Top of milled plate.
    Picture 2: Bottom of plate with Pins.
    Picture 3: Plate mounted to mill table.
    Picture 4: Vise mounted to plate.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20120725_210855.jpg   20120725_210912.jpg   20120725_211139.jpg   20120725_212354.jpg  

    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  13. #53
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    So, I am adding Homing Switches to the mill over the weekend. I will be taking the table off to install. I never did anything to assist with the oiling of the ways, and it sure would be a nice time to do that when I have the table off.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks!

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  14. #54
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    Mar 2009
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    Was having some heat problems with my Bladerunner II. I decided to replace all of my electronics and motors. Ended up with a 5 axis control box with Gecko 201X drivers, 620oz 7amp Nema 24 motors for the X and Y axis, and a 960oz Nema 34 motor for the Z Axis. The break out board is a PMDX 126. Motion control is an Ethernet SmoothStepper. Bought all of the parts from Ahren at CNCRouterParts.com. Great guy! will definately buy from him again.

    I also bought a PMDX 107 Spindle controller, and a LittleMachineShop spindle speed mod for the SX3 mill. Anxious to get the spindle controlled by CNC.

    I went from 100IPM rapids to 300IPM with the new controller. This thing is WAY better than my old controller. A lot more expensive, but after building it myself, I know more about the box, and like the result.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20120827_210110.jpg   20120827_210121.jpg   20120827_210129.jpg   20120827_210140.jpg  

    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  15. #55
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    Oct 2010
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    A very nice controller box setup you have now. I dealt with CNCRouterParts in the past for my Joe's 4x4 and had great service.

    Interested to hear how the X3 spindle speed controller works for you. I may follow in your footsteps with that add-on for mine.

    Thanks, Matt

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattm55 View Post
    A very nice controller box setup you have now. I dealt with CNCRouterParts in the past for my Joe's 4x4 and had great service.

    Interested to hear how the X3 spindle speed controller works for you. I may follow in your footsteps with that add-on for mine.

    Thanks, Matt
    Matt,

    Thanks... I definately like my new box a lot better, and Ahren's shop is about 5 miles from me. I have the ability to pick stuff up local. Love that!

    I'll let you know how the spindle controller goes. I have spindle control on the 2 CNC routers I have in my shop and I wouldnt go back! A lot better control of your machine. Hope the littlemachineshop version works as well.

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by sagreen View Post
    Finally got my toolplate and chip tray installed! time to start making chips!

    Many thanks to Geekus for all of his advice on pinning the table!

    Scott...
    Were did you get the Chip Tray from ?
    Inner Vision Development Corp. - http://www.ivdc.com
    Website Design & Development. Shopping Carts, SEO and more!

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Connor9220 View Post
    Were did you get the Chip Tray from ?
    Got it from LittleMachineShop

    Coolant Catch Tray Assembly, Table - LittleMachineShop.com

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  19. #59
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    Installed new Homing switches.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20120905_191618.jpg   20120905_191624.jpg  
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattm55 View Post
    A very nice controller box setup you have now. I dealt with CNCRouterParts in the past for my Joe's 4x4 and had great service.

    Interested to hear how the X3 spindle speed controller works for you. I may follow in your footsteps with that add-on for mine.

    Thanks, Matt
    Matt,

    Finally got my Little Machine Shop speed controller going. Was a long process, but Chris from LMS was great to work with. So, it turns out that there are 2 different version of the controller, one for an X2 and a different one for an SX3. I went through a total of 4 different controllers before we got this figured out.

    1) Make sure that you get the right one from LMS. Chris can point you to the correct one.
    2) You connect the board to your controller via a big green plug on the LMS spindle controller. I didnt figure this out until yesterday, but LMS does not fully seat the plug onto the board and it doesnt make contact. Make sure you pull the plug off of the controller, and firmly seat it. I was poking around with a volt meter and found that I wasnt seeing voltages at the plug that I expected. Kinda stupid on my part, but easy to do.
    3) I'm using a PMDX bob, and a PMDX 107 spindle controller. The PMDX spindle controller references the variable 0-10v signal from a ground on the PMDX spindle controller plug. This controller also uses a pair of solid state relays to switch Run and Dir. It also provides a Common connection for these relays. The LMS board needs to see its own ground on Run or Dir to opperate correctly. Long story short, I had to bridge the Common and Ground on the PMDX107 and tie these to the ground on the LMS controller to get everything to work. Not sure if the PMDX people will like this.

    All in all, it works great now. The one downside is you loose all of the controls on the Mill. i.e. the front pannel buttons, the RPM display, and the tapping buttons on the handles. If I get some time, I will probably figure out a way to build an arduino based interface between the LMS controller and the front panel on the mill. Shouldnt be too hard.

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

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