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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Benchtop Machines > X3/SX3/G0619/G0463 > Build Log - Grizzly G0619 CNC Conversion
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  1. #1
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    Build Log - Grizzly G0619 CNC Conversion

    I've been using CNC routers for about 10 years. Some time back I bought a large Grizzly Horizontal / Vertical mill and hated using it cause it wasnt CNC. Started looking into converting it, and nothing seems to exist for a conversiont kit. So, recently I bought a Grizzly G0619 and parts from CNCFusion to replace the ballscrews.

    Making good progress. I'll post pictures as I go...

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  2. #2
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    Picture 1 : New stand for the Mill... I believe I can get all the electronics and the computer tucked away in the bottom.
    Picture 2 : Mill coming out of the box.
    Picture 3: Mill on the bench cleaned and ready for conversion. Took 2 days to clean all of the gunk off of the machine that it was packed in...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8235.JPG   IMG_8236.JPG   IMG_8237.JPG  
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  3. #3
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    Mar 2009
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    Starting the conversion. I'm using the following for this build...

    Mill : Grizzly G0619 - Super X3 (Deluxe)
    Electronics : CandCNC Bladerunner Combo
    Motors : 620oz Nema 23
    Ball Screws / Nuts : CNCFusion Deluxe kit.


    Picture 1: Y axis table removed. Stock ball screw showing.
    Picture 2: X axis table removed. Stock ball screw showing.
    Picture 3: X axis ball screw removed.
    Picture 4 & 5: New X axis ball screw installed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8238.JPG   IMG_8240.JPG   IMG_8242.JPG   IMG_8243.JPG  

    IMG_8244.JPG  
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  4. #4
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    Picture 1: X Axis Table installed. Y axis bolted in place. Note: If you slide the front of the mill off of the table by about 4 inches its easy to get to the Y axis bearing block bolts on the bottom side of the mill.

    Picture 2 and 3 : X and Y axis motors installed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8245.JPG   IMG_8246.JPG   IMG_8247.JPG  
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  5. #5
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    Looking good!, I remember when mine was that clean

    JTCUSTOMS
    "It is only when they go wrong that machines remind you how powerful they are."
    Clive James

  6. #6
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    That looks spiffy clean, I can hardly recall when mine ever looked that good. While it is still early in the assembly you may want to decide on the limit switch placement if you plan on using them (I'd recommend it). They will be a lot easier to mount with the saddle off than if you get everything on and dialed in. I used one honeywell mechanical switch with 2 triggers for each axis - in hindsight I should have made the triggers adjustable, but they work just the same. Other things to do now if you planned them are stepper covers and a one-shot oiler (a lot of work, but I really wish I had done it).

    Also, that is a really nice base, mind sharing where you got it?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geekus View Post
    That looks spiffy clean, I can hardly recall when mine ever looked that good. While it is still early in the assembly you may want to decide on the limit switch placement if you plan on using them (I'd recommend it). They will be a lot easier to mount with the saddle off than if you get everything on and dialed in. I used one honeywell mechanical switch with 2 triggers for each axis - in hindsight I should have made the triggers adjustable, but they work just the same. Other things to do now if you planned them are stepper covers and a one-shot oiler (a lot of work, but I really wish I had done it).

    Also, that is a really nice base, mind sharing where you got it?
    Thanks! Yeah, I'll definately be putting limit switches on. I popped the snap ring off of the end of the Y axis, so I need to do that. One shot oiler is a great idea. No idea why they didnt install one in the first place ?!?!?!

    The base is a grizzly product... G5944 Machine Cabinet Stand for G1006/7, G1126

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  8. #8
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    I guess I missed that the base and the shop fox casters were different items, looks like a great setup for moving it around and then leveling it.

    Yeah it would be nice if these mills were at least ready for oilers with ways milled for the grooves, but then they would cost a few bucks more. If you have access to another working mill it is worthwhile, otherwise it is a couple squirts of oil on the ballnuts and ways (I usually do it every time I need to run the mill). Getting the z ballnut is a pain though. If I ever have to tear down my mill a one-shot oiler will be on the list of things to do for sure. Even if I don't do a one-shot I will still need to find a better way to oil the z-axis ballnut (which requires removing the back shroud each time).

    Another other item worth checking out is a flood coolant tray:

    LittleMachineShop.com - Coolant Catch Tray Assembly, Table

    It really keeps the chips at bay with or without coolant. I mounted mine when the mill was assembled but had to cut down the back side of the tray with an angle grinder for the mill head clearance when the table is at the far extents of the x axis and all the way back on the y.

    I have some pics over at the cncfusion X3 forum of the tray mounted, if you are interested I can PM you the link.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geekus View Post
    I guess I missed that the base and the shop fox casters were different items, looks like a great setup for moving it around and then leveling it.

    Yeah it would be nice if these mills were at least ready for oilers with ways milled for the grooves, but then they would cost a few bucks more. If you have access to another working mill it is worthwhile, otherwise it is a couple squirts of oil on the ballnuts and ways (I usually do it every time I need to run the mill). Getting the z ballnut is a pain though. If I ever have to tear down my mill a one-shot oiler will be on the list of things to do for sure. Even if I don't do a one-shot I will still need to find a better way to oil the z-axis ballnut (which requires removing the back shroud each time).

    Another other item worth checking out is a flood coolant tray:

    LittleMachineShop.com - Coolant Catch Tray Assembly, Table

    It really keeps the chips at bay with or without coolant. I mounted mine when the mill was assembled but had to cut down the back side of the tray with an angle grinder for the mill head clearance when the table is at the far extents of the x axis and all the way back on the y.

    I have some pics over at the cncfusion X3 forum of the tray mounted, if you are interested I can PM you the link.
    Ding... you have mail
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  10. #10
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    Ok this is where I came across my first problem... I bolted up You will notice in the pictures that the Y axis mounting holes do not line up with the bolt holes. I was able to fix this, but I had to mill about .1875" off of the bottom of the CNCFusion Y axis bearing block. That lined the holes up much better. As you can emagine, the ballscrew ran a lot smoother after the operation...

    Anyone else had to do this?

    Scott...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8248.JPG   IMG_8249.JPG  
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  11. #11
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    Ok, really hoping to get the Z-Axis going this weekend and start making some chips... Things to get done...

    1) Z Axis.
    2) Limit Switches.
    3) Flood coolant tray.
    4) I would like to make a tooling tray.
    5) Monitor / Keyboard / Control panel arm.
    6) Mount electronics and computer in stand.
    7) Motor Covers
    8) Build a control panel. Probably use an IPaq and arcade buttons.
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
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  12. #12
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    Was wondering, and by the looks of the pics, that you didn't opt for extending the X/Y from CNCFusion?

    Looks good and keep the info/pics coming.

    Matt

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattm55 View Post
    Was wondering, and by the looks of the pics, that you didn't opt for extending the X/Y from CNCFusion?

    Looks good and keep the info/pics coming.

    Matt
    That is something I would definitely do, that Y travel gets eaten up pretty quick!!
    Its much easier to do now than after everything is mounted.

    BUT now that I think about it if you didn't already order the extended ballscrew from cncfusion with your kit then its kind of a moot point.
    Maybe Michael will send you an extended ballscrew that is drilled and tapped for a bolt and washer in the free end of the ballscrew, that will also keep you from popping the snap ring off the end, it is definitely a more positive stop.
    And as far as limits, personally I dont use them on my mill, the steppers will stall before anything breaks, I use home switches on each axis, and then just set up the soft limits in mach 3. It simplifies the mess of wires
    as there is not much room on these little machines.
    Then you just home the machine and turn the soft limits on and your set.
    Have you seen Creavice Reamer's site
    OH and are you using the nema 23 620 oz for the Z?
    Here is a link to my SX3, wont be much help to you as I did not document very well, but might give you some ideas.

    JTCUSTOMS
    "It is only when they go wrong that machines remind you how powerful they are."
    Clive James

  14. #14
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    Dec 2010
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    1230
    Quote Originally Posted by Geekus View Post
    I guess I missed that the base and the shop fox casters were different items, looks like a great setup for moving it around and then leveling it.

    Yeah it would be nice if these mills were at least ready for oilers with ways milled for the grooves, but then they would cost a few bucks more. If you have access to another working mill it is worthwhile, otherwise it is a couple squirts of oil on the ballnuts and ways (I usually do it every time I need to run the mill). Getting the z ballnut is a pain though. If I ever have to tear down my mill a one-shot oiler will be on the list of things to do for sure. Even if I don't do a one-shot I will still need to find a better way to oil the z-axis ballnut (which requires removing the back shroud each time).

    Another other item worth checking out is a flood coolant tray:

    LittleMachineShop.com - Coolant Catch Tray Assembly, Table

    It really keeps the chips at bay with or without coolant. I mounted mine when the mill was assembled but had to cut down the back side of the tray with an angle grinder for the mill head clearance when the table is at the far extents of the x axis and all the way back on the y.

    I have some pics over at the cncfusion X3 forum of the tray mounted, if you are interested I can PM you the link.
    Cool idea on the tray guard!

    on the oiler, you only have to remove the rear cover one more time... to instal a 3/16" tube with the other end on an oil can




    I keep the can behind my enclosure and only shoot it one or twice a week. Everything else I hit with a one inch paintbrush dipped in a large pill bottle of way oil. REF ALL, Y positive, paint Y ball screw and ways, then X. whole process takes about 90 seconds for all three ball screws and 6 dovetail sides. One shot would be nice, but now that im assembled it would be nuts to spend 10 hours to save 90 seconds a day... im willing to bet this machine won't last gif enough for it to pay off the time spent making the mod :-/

  15. #15
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    Hey Priddy, that's a cool idea, I am gonna try it, but will probably just make a port so I can squirt some oil in rather than have it hooked up to an oiler.

    I have to agree about the time to install a one-shot oiler, but they do get the oil right where it is needed and on some ballnuts they can even flush oil into them which will certainly help. I just use a cheap oiler with a trigger and aim for the ball nut on the x and y axis, then run them so they suck the oil in.

  16. #16
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by cornbinder23 View Post
    That is something I would definitely do, that Y travel gets eaten up pretty quick!!
    Its much easier to do now than after everything is mounted.

    BUT now that I think about it if you didn't already order the extended ballscrew from cncfusion with your kit then its kind of a moot point.
    Maybe Michael will send you an extended ballscrew that is drilled and tapped for a bolt and washer in the free end of the ballscrew, that will also keep you from popping the snap ring off the end, it is definitely a more positive stop.
    And as far as limits, personally I dont use them on my mill, the steppers will stall before anything breaks, I use home switches on each axis, and then just set up the soft limits in mach 3. It simplifies the mess of wires
    as there is not much room on these little machines.
    Then you just home the machine and turn the soft limits on and your set.
    Have you seen Creavice Reamer's site
    OH and are you using the nema 23 620 oz for the Z?
    Here is a link to my SX3, wont be much help to you as I did not document very well, but might give you some ideas.

    JTCUSTOMS
    So, I was looking on Crevice Reamers site, and from what I could tell you had to mill the lower portion of the Z Axis dovetail to extend the ballscrew. Was going to do the extension, but in the end I told CNCFusion to skip it. I'll probably kick myself at some point. Didnt want to get into that much work. But, I am getting just under 7" of travel on my Y axis. Seems like that is more than what I was getting stock.

    Thats a brilliant idea on the Bolt and Washer on the end of the ballscrew. Wonder if I could just chuck the ballscrew up in my lathe and do it myself?

    Yes, for now I'll be using the 620oz Nema 23 on the Z Axis. I have a gas strut. I have an oriental motors, Nema 34 and driver that came off of my shopbot at one point so one of these days I may switch to it. Problem is that I will have to go with a dedicated power supply for that axis cause its specs are totally different than my Nema 23.

    When CNCFusion sent me my kit, they were out of stock on the belt and pulley for my Z axis, and I am still waiting on them. While I am waiting on CNCFusion for the pulleys, I did order a 22 tooth motor pulley, and a 28 tooth ballscrew pulley from another site, so that will up my torque a bit. Should be in the mail when I get home.

    One of the first things I plan to make is a mount for my 4th axis. I have a 50 to 1 Nema 23 gearhead, and a tailstock. Should be pretty quick work to mill up some aluminum to make a mount for the motor.

    I'm excited for this weekends work...

    Thanks for all of the tips guys!

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sagreen View Post
    Thats a brilliant idea on the Bolt and Washer on the end of the ballscrew. Wonder if I could just chuck the ballscrew up in my lathe and do it myself?
    That shouldnt be a problem the centers are soft enough to easily machine.

    On the dovetail, CR actually hacked it out with a drill and a file, on mine I removed some of the dovetail as the Z never even gets close to it.
    Trust me when I say you will want more Y travel, as it gets eaten up pretty quickly depending on the tooling. But then again YMMV.

    JTCUSTOMS
    "It is only when they go wrong that machines remind you how powerful they are."
    Clive James

  18. #18
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    Getting ready to mount the gas strut. Was scrubbing the forums looking for an example of how to mount the strut and keep the pivot on the head and haven't seen one.

    Anyone have any good examples of how to mount the strut on the SX3 G0619?

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

  19. #19
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    I mounted it on the left side of my X3, and I suspect it could be done similarly on the SX3:





    This is not ideal though since I am unable to get the mill head down all the way to the table so using regular collets I have to remove the strut if I need that extra. I think if I used an ER collet it would not be a problem. A better way (which is something I plan to do soon) would be something like this:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/438154-post3.html

    With a piece of angle to extend the mount point higher.

  20. #20
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    Geekus, thanks for the strut tips!

    Woot, my z-axis is now alive! All 3 axis's working now...

    Question: I guess everyone must have had to cut the bottom plate on the inside of the back cover to get it to clear the motor and mount??

    Scott...
    Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
    http://www.rmgvideos.com

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