[louieatienza]

Louie thanks for the information I forgot to ask you what spindle speed and feed rate?
My wife and Daughter have a embroidery machine and are in to basically the same thing but the use fabric so this is up there alley

Lou

I believe it's at 16-18k, can't remember exactly. I kept it a little on the high side with the small router. I believe it's 35ipm, .032"doc... This was with the old Solsylva...

[LouF]

I believe it's at 16-18k, can't remember exactly. I kept it a little on the high side with the small router. I believe it's 35ipm, .032"doc... This was with the old Solsylva...

Louie, thank you I want to try it some day once I get more proficient..


Lou

[ger21]

Hey Gerry, you used to have a lot of praise for Vortex, what changed?

I actually ordered some bits from Vortex last week.

The price of good quality carbide bits has gone through the roof lately, so when I found a good deal, I had to jump all over it.
All the Onsrud bits I have were purchased at 60-80% below retail prices.

I paid $39 each for the 3 flute compression bits. The comparable ones from Vortex are $163 each.

I paid $12.50 for the 2 flute chipbreaker. The comparable vortex bit is $90.

I consider Vortex and Onsrud bits to be equal to each other.
Note that the actual retail prices of Onsrud bits are probably very similar to Vortex.

[LouF]

Not to get off topic but I have heard of resurfacing the spoil board being a newbie can anyone explain what bit to use and how to go about doing this?

Thanks Lou

[CarveOne]

Make sure your Z axis is as close to 90 degrees to the table surface as possible in both the X and Y directions. Make sure that each end of the gantry is at the same height relative to the table top as possible.

Figure out the X and Y axis dimensions that you want to surface plane and include the router bit diameter you will be using in the calculations. Create a pocket operation gcode that will cut the calculated dimensions. I used a common 3/4" diameter router bit to surface plane my 49" x 134" table area. It took a few hours but the end result was perfectly acceptable. Using a much larger diameter cutter makes it go faster, but a very slight tilt in the cutter from 90.0 degrees will leave ridges.

If you have measured the the table surface inaccuracy with a dial indicator beforehand, you can determine the pocket depth needed to flatten the table top in one pass. If not, and your table top is relatively small, you can set the pocket depth to 0.010" for a skimming cut, then make as many passes as needed to get to the required depth. Set the Z=0 reference again after each pass.

[LouF]

Make sure your Z axis is as close to 90 degrees to the table surface as possible in both the X and Y directions. Make sure that each end of the gantry is at the same height relative to the table top as possible.

Figure out the X and Y axis dimensions that you want to surface plane and include the router bit diameter you will be using in the calculations. Create a pocket operation gcode that will cut the calculated dimensions. I used a common 3/4" diameter router bit to surface plane my 49" x 134" table area. It took a few hours but the end result was perfectly acceptable. Using a much larger diameter cutter makes it go faster, but a very slight tilt in the cutter from 90.0 degrees will leave ridges.

If you have measured the the table surface inaccuracy with a dial indicator beforehand, you can determine the pocket depth needed to flatten the table top in one pass. If not, and your table top is relatively small, you can set the pocket depth to 0.010" for a skimming cut, then make as many passes as needed to get to the required depth. Set the Z=0 reference again after each pass.

CarveOne, thanks I will have to do that...


Lou

[CarveOne]

CarveOne, thanks I will have to do that...


Lou

When I say "as close as possible" take that to mean as reasonably close as possible. The closer it is the less material is removed.

If your cutter can reach to the edges of your table top there won't be any ledges, but mine has a shallow ledge at each end on my big machine and a full 28" x 35" shallow pocket on my smaller machine because the cutter can't reach any of the edges. The shallow ledges can have uses though.

You can mount a dial indicator to your router mount and you can create an X/Y chart that shows the + and - change values from a Z=0 reference in the middle of your table or some other reference location. You just want to know how much to plane off to get the whole working surface flat relative to your gantry. It isn't difficult, and is a good exercise that only needs to be done when the spoil board needs to be flattened during replacement. As long as your spoil board isn't carved up too badly that's the only time it needs to be re-done, except if moisture makes your MDF grow on a regular basis. I seal mine with a couple coats of polyurethane after surfacing.

[ger21]

It isn't difficult, and is a good exercise that only needs to be done when the spoil board needs to be flattened during replacement. As long as your spoil board isn't carved up too badly that's the only time it needs to be re-done

Frequency of surfacing really depends on how you work. If you always cut through your parts into the spoilboard, it'll need to be replaced more frequently.

At work, we use vacuum sucking through the spoilboard, and cut about .005" into it. We might cut 500-1000 parts/day, and as the spoilboard gets more grooves in it, are vacuum tends to leak out of the grooves, weakening the vacuum. In some cases, we may surface the spoilboard every day. Sometimes once week or even less than that. We typically remove .01" each time. We usually replace the spoilboard (3/4" MDF) when it gets to about .040, so that gives us about 33-34 times we can surface a sheet before replacing it.

At home, I try to never cut through my parts, so I've only had to surface my spoilboard 3 times in two years. Usually to remove accidental gouges.

[CarveOne]

Frequency of surfacing really depends on how you work. If you always cut through your parts into the spoilboard, it'll need to be replaced more frequently.

At work, we use vacuum sucking through the spoilboard, and cut about .005" into it. We might cut 500-1000 parts/day, and as the spoilboard gets more grooves in it, are vacuum tends to leak out of the grooves, weakening you vacuum. In some cases, we may surface the spoilboard every day. Sometimes once week or even less than that. We typically remove .01" each time. We usually replace the spoilboard (3/4" MDF) when it gets to about .040, so that gives us about 33-34 times we can surface a sheet before replacing it.

At home, I try to never cut through my parts, so I've only had to surface my spoilboard 3 times in two years. Usually to remove accidental gouges.

My work isn't so precise. I use a smaller third layer of MDF that can be removed and tossed.

[LouF]

I have been carving redwood for signs and some acrylic nothing that requires a high tolerance I put the always put the material on a piece of MDF and attach that to the spoil board. I learned when I made my first test cuts I did not do that and I cut into the spoil board.


Lou

[ger21]

Louie, have you tried one of these for cutting aluminum?
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[Boltz]

I tried a bunch of bits for cutting aluminum, and then I tried the Micro-100 bits and never looked back. Not as cheap as the Onsrud's, but with my setup the performance difference was incredible. The inside of the flutes looks like a telescope mirror.

-Jim Hart

Louie, have you tried one of these for cutting aluminum?
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[louieatienza]

Louie, have you tried one of these for cutting aluminum?
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Gerry, I haven't yet. Onsrud does make a single flute low helix spiral-O-flute for aluminum that works very well for soft stuff. I might have to give these a try.

I tried a bunch of bits for cutting aluminum, and then I tried the Micro-100 bits and never looked back. Not as cheap as the Onsrud's, but with my setup the performance difference was incredible. The inside of the flutes looks like a telescope mirror.

-Jim Hart

It depends on which Onsrud bits/endmills you buy. Onsrud makes endmills specifically for aluminum and hard metals, that are used mainly on mills, as well as aluminum bits, for routers.

If you look at the different Onsrud offerings, for routers, they have the 63 series spiral-O-flute, which has an angled tip and a typical finish on the flute. The 65 series has a flat sweeper tip and very highly polished flute and body; you can see your reflection in them. Amana's spiral-O-flute bits are highly polished as well, but not as much as the Onsrud 65's, and you can get them up to 1/16". The WIDIA Hanita endmills look like jewels; I almost didn't want to run them!

I've even had excellent results with the Atrax endmills sold at Enco. Not even the coated ones, but their general purpose stub-length carbide endmills. In fact, I would recommend using a stub length endmill for metal cutting whenever possible. The closer the collet is to your work, the more ridgid the setup will be.

[racedirector]

Does anyone know of a cheap source for 1/2" ball end, 1/4" shank bits (or even 3/8" shank)? I need one or two of them for a job and Google is useless for me down here in Australia. Nothing exists like this in Australia so o'seas is the only option for me.

Cheers
Bruce

[louieatienza]

Does anyone know of a cheap source for 1/2" ball end, 1/4" shank bits (or even 3/8" shank)? I need one or two of them for a job and Google is useless for me down here in Australia. Nothing exists like this in Australia so o'seas is the only option for me.

Cheers
Bruce

Bruce,

If you're cutting wood, then look for a "core box bit", which you should easily find with 1/2" cut width and 1/4" shank... You can also try "fluting" bit...

[ger21]

Does anyone know of a cheap source for 1/2" ball end, 1/4" shank bits (or even 3/8" shank)? I need one or two of them for a job and Google is useless for me down here in Australia. Nothing exists like this in Australia so o'seas is the only option for me.

Cheers
Bruce

Bosch 85446MC Surface Form Corebox Router Bit Carbide | eBay

These won't last long, but they're cheap.
IRWIN 420203 Core Box Router Bit 1/2" HSS | eBay

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[racedirector]

Thanks guys, core box bit I understand, I even have a 6.35mm one in my router bit set. I'll check out the ones you linked Gerry, thanks for those.

Cheers
Bruce

[racedirector]

As luck would have it, found some locally at the supplier I am buying my other bits from: McJING Tools Online . Funny how things turn out when you know another name for something

[Calico]

I hope you guys can help me...
I have a problem with cutting deep pocket wood 100mm deep.
The problem is time.
I use 2 flute flat bit 12 mm diameter so far.

Can anyone tell me where to get super long bit with 10mm shank diameter?
Reading this thred shows many brands but they don't have that long bit I need.

Where they get the super long bit cnc router?
If I search youtube they shows many super long router bit.

Btw, is plunge roughing does any advantages?

Thanks
Cal

[ger21]

A bit long enough to cut a 100mm deep hole would probably need to be at least 16-20mm diameter, and would cost about $400-$600. There are plenty of manufacturers that can make one for you.

I doubt you'll find one with a 10mm shank, as it would be very fragile, and would probably chatter a lot.