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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by WarrenW
    I got my router mounted and made my first cut today! I ran the circular pocket wizard in Mach 3 that cut both these holds shown below.

    I have to find a better way to hold down the wood so the gantry does not hit anything. I don't want to put a bottom sheet under because all of my work will be cutting through 1/8" birch and other wood.
    Nice work, I used two holders to makesure the router did not move.
    One sugestion is to use a cutting top that way no dust or shavings will fall on your lead screw and causing possible problems later on.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    186
    Hey Gerry,

    On the router bits you suggested from Eagle America, what cutting diameter do you suggest? It seems I want to get as small as possible because I am cutting letters and shapes in 1/8" birch wood and I want any corners and cuts to be as precise as possible.

    From the two links you gave me, I would think the spiral up-cut bit would work best. Am I right? And can i use a 1/8" bit? Sorry, I'm just not familiar with all the bits for cutting like I am. Right now I have a 3/16 straight 1 flute bit that I bought at Sears.

    Thanks!

    Warren

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Yes, I'd try the 1/8" spiral upcut. You might want to try a downcut, it will leave a cleaner top surface, as upcut spirals tend to fuzz the edge. If you use a downcut bit, though, try not to plunge straight down, or it will burn easily. Either enter the material from the side, or ramp into it. Try to keep the feedrate as fast as you can, and start with a rpm around 12-15K. You may be able to go even slower with the rpm, but don't go any higher.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by WarrenW
    Hey Gerry,

    On the router bits you suggested from Eagle America, what cutting diameter do you suggest? It seems I want to get as small as possible because I am cutting letters and shapes in 1/8" birch wood and I want any corners and cuts to be as precise as possible.

    From the two links you gave me, I would think the spiral up-cut bit would work best. Am I right? And can i use a 1/8" bit? Sorry, I'm just not familiar with all the bits for cutting like I am. Right now I have a 3/16 straight 1 flute bit that I bought at Sears.

    Thanks!

    Warren
    Don't forget to get the collet adapter for a routher unless you use 1/4" shank 1/8" 2 flute up spiral bit.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    The ones he's talking about are 1/4" shank. Almost all wood cutting bits are 1/4 or 1/2 shank. It's the metal endmills that are usually smaller.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    578
    Warren,

    “I don't want to put a bottom sheet under because all of my work will be cutting through 1/8" birch and other wood.”

    Do you always plan on working without a bed (or backer board, sacrificial board, bottom sheet)? I don’t think this is a good idea for at least three reasons:

    The first is flex. You will get more accurate cuts if the board you are cutting is supported.

    The second is a backer. Just like when you drill a hole, you always put a scrap underneath to reduce chipping. You will get cleaner cuts.

    The third is it will allow you to cut smaller pieces by attaching them to it. Without it, you are limited to 24” boards.

    I sheet of MDF is cheap and easily replaced when it gets too mucked up. Just set your Z depth to barely over 1/8”. If you get to the point where both sides are so messed up, you can reward yourself with a new one. It will take a lot of cutting to get there.

    (Boy, you have a long tongue and skinny arms)
    Steve

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    186
    Yeah, I guess I will have to put one down. I'll make mounts for it where I can easily change it out for a new one.

    Hey Joe, did you mount the Hitachi router yet? I used mine some and works GREAT! But I only had one router mount on there and it broke. And it wasn't cut just right either. So I just ordered a new aluminum one just for this Hitachi router from k2cnc.com. It was $54 with shipping but it won't break and the router will fit just right. I should be back up and running by Friday. I'll post some pics of it then too.

    Warren

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by WarrenW
    Yeah, I guess I will have to put one down. I'll make mounts for it where I can easily change it out for a new one.

    Hey Joe, did you mount the Hitachi router yet? I used mine some and works GREAT! But I only had one router mount on there and it broke. And it wasn't cut just right either. So I just ordered a new aluminum one just for this Hitachi router from k2cnc.com. It was $54 with shipping but it won't break and the router will fit just right. I should be back up and running by Friday. I'll post some pics of it then too.

    Warren
    Yes this is what i made and it works great, you really should use two supports to keep it from tilting on you.
    you should have told me i can give you the g-code for it.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...0&postcount=87

    Joe

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    186
    I got my new router mount in today. Its great especially being all aluminum. Thanks for the gcode offer Joe but I don't have another router to cut it with.

    Here are some pics of it mounted. Now tomorrow I can try to cut again and figure out what I'm doing!

    Warren
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mount1.gif   mount2.gif  

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    389
    Very nice combination of materials.

    Well done !

    (Built in record time too.)

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    106
    I was woundering, have you had any problems with those 8020 berings, would you recomend them or are they too tight and may run out the steppers after a while because of the tightness?

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    186
    Mine are doing just great! I was cutting with my router today. Here is what I did. When I got them they were brand new. When I put a bearing on the 8020, it seemed a tad tight. So when I put it on again, I kind of pushed it towards the side that was tight and it actually shaved some of the bearing material off to help it loosen up. But its not loose where you can feel any tolerance in it. They are tight and slide easy now. As long as the 8020's are lined up, they don't bind up or anything. I was worried about the same thing but still going strong.

    Let me know if you have any other questions.

    Warren

  13. #53
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    186
    I am selling this router with everything including the controller, motors, router, etc. (not the computer) I have Mach 3 and SheetCam with it. The router is 45 1/2" Y and 56 1/2" X in size. It works great!

    I have a little over $1400 in this setup but will consider all reasonable offers or trade for something of equal value. I will be posting this in the classifieds now but thought I would mention it here. Please email me directly at [email protected] if interested. I am located in Savannah, Georgia since this would be a pickup only.

    Thanks,

    Warren
    LetterCAM CNC Software
    http://www.LetterCAM.com

  14. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    63
    aww. selling so soon? why?

  15. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    56
    you have email

  16. #56
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    2
    Out of curiosity, does anyone know what happened to hobbytoolplans.com? Tried to go to it for further info on the plans that were used here, and got a placeholder from someone looking to sell the domain...

  17. #57
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    636

    Just so happen I do know

    Yep, I know. I Took a new job working 60 hours a week and haven't had a chance to properly support existing plans or develop new ones so I closed down the site.

    Dan (Hobby Tool Plans)
    Check out what I am working on at www.routerbitz.com!

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