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Thread: G0704 build

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    29

    G0704 build

    Hey Folks;

    I did break in on my new Mill. Seems to work, one issue in rev in high range only got 1350 rpm. Forward worked great. Ran it in 10 minute blocks. Motor and Spindle got warm, could touch but kinda hot to hold hand on for long. Ran quiet , A little tightness when moving Quill in high-range at 1.5 -m 2.0 inch travel.

    Mitch .... :wave:

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1186
    Congrats on getting your new mill! my motor and spindle also got warm upon delivery. My motor didn't make it past the break in period for it bit the dust. they shipped a new motor right out though. I now use a treadmill motor like Hoss, but would like to go to a spindle servo or something different. if you plan on CNCing it, I would highly recomment doing the bearing upgrade and go to a different motor. my replacement motor would get so hot you couldn't touch it after cutting a part for 20-30 minutes.

    Again congrats on the purchase, it is terribly fun and addictive to mod these mills!

    Chris

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    278
    Congratulations on your new mill, and happy CNC'ing...
    Hive 8 - G0704 CNC Mill - 20 inch Telescope - High Resolution 3D Printer - Lasersaur 100W CO2 Cutter / Engraver

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by USN View Post
    ..... in rev in high range only got 1350 rpm.....
    Hi there USN and welcome....not to worry either as if the G0704's motor is like the BF20 (which I asume they're similar) they state somewhere in the manual that in rev you'll only get an average 50% of normal running RPM.....

    and post loads of pics.... for those of us who prefer not to read
    Eoin

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    29
    Thanks Folks, That's good news on Motor. I will get pics uploaded. I need to get some tooling now. :banana:

    Mitch ...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    29

    Got all the stuff, time to start CNC conversion

    Hello all; I have most of the stuff for conversion now. Got the Kl-5056D and the Kl -8070D drivers. Do you wire them like the 5056s ? Don't see a wiring diagram for the Digital drivers. Is it the same as the standard drivers? I got the 4 axis control box. The Kl-4813 Power Supply is a tight fit in the box, but I can get it in there. I might have to trim the base a bit. Should I use the same shielded wire for wiring the inside of the Box ? I downloaded info on all the stuff I got. Do I need the ProTuner software for tuning motors? I know Mach 3 does that too.

    Lots of ? Sorry..... Mitch (USN)

  7. #7
    There's some wiring instructions here, G0704 Electronics
    You don't need the tuner software, it's easier to just set the jumpers yourself.
    If you have any problems there are several threads on these drivers in the automation technology forum.
    Automation Technology Products - CNCzone.com-The Largest Machinist Community on the net!
    Also my email is always open, [email protected]
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    419
    Note page 23 of the 5052 manual:
    Motor auto-identification and parameter auto-configuration technology of the KL-5056D
    can replace manual tuning the driver with ProTuner. Just changes SW4 two times in 1 second, and
    then the driver will auto-identify the new motor and auto-configure related control parameters for
    optimum responses. Recommend use this function after changing the driven motor.
    Once the motor is attached to your mill, just toggle sw4 twice for optimal performance.

    The motor will move a few degrees during the tuning process.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3920

    Hot to the touch means nothing.

    The design of the motor plays a significant role in what can be considered too hot to touch. For example a permant magnet DC motor that gets hot on the case may be a problem as the heat generation area, the windings on the rotor are a long way from that surface. More importantly that heat is traveling through the magnets which can be damaged from that heat.

    On the other hand stepper motors, AC induction motors and DC brushless motors have their windings in the stator with a veru short coupling distance to the rotors outer shell. These types of motors can get extremely hot on those surfaces and still operate for years. How hot depends upon the manufacturing and design but some of these motors operate at temperature that would be dangerous to touch. In the end you need the manufactures data sheet and a temperature probe to determine if the motor is too hot.

    Quote Originally Posted by lcvette View Post
    Congrats on getting your new mill! my motor and spindle also got warm upon delivery. My motor didn't make it past the break in period for it bit the dust. they shipped a new motor right out though. I now use a treadmill motor like Hoss, but would like to go to a spindle servo or something different. if you plan on CNCing it, I would highly recomment doing the bearing upgrade and go to a different motor. my replacement motor would get so hot you couldn't touch it after cutting a part for 20-30 minutes.

    Again congrats on the purchase, it is terribly fun and addictive to mod these mills!

    Chris

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    29

    Keeping Z axis lock nuts tight.

    Hello All, I have done a lot on the Mill Conversion. I put a oiling system on it,

    Finished All the parts for Phase 1 mod. Got all the electronics, and started to Wire them up. But when I put the Z axis coupling on the two nuts, they backed off and became loose. I pulled it back apart, and re tighten it. Should I use Loc Tite on it ? I made the coupler from Hoss's plans with the set screws. Thanks Hoss for great DVD, very nice. Soon, Belt drive mod.... I will have to post Pics...

    Any ideas ?? Thanks Folks...... Mitch .....

  11. #11
    Loctite those puppies.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    Loctite those puppies.
    Hoss
    I had the same issue. In fact, I wasn't paying attention and spun the nuts right off the screw and the Z fell and crashed. No damage. I didn't loctite them because I was trying to adjust the preload. Don't recall if I ever did loctite the.
    Inner Vision Development Corp. - http://www.ivdc.com
    Website Design & Development. Shopping Carts, SEO and more!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    29

    Series or Parallel Motor hookup.

    Hello All ;

    I have a Nema 34 (KL34H295-43-8B) motor. Wire it Series or Parallel ? Its connected to a KL-8070D. Specs say it has same holding torque , But what about Running torque.

    Wiring is done , last step.. Also I got a MPG2 pendent and a C22 board. Do I just connect to a second Parallel port ? And then set it up in Mach 3 ?


    Very excited about My CNC . I will post pics soon...


    Thanks All Mitch (USN)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    4415
    What is the amperage in either configuration? What is the amperage output of the 8070 (driver you are using)?
    Yes on the second PP and the MPG2. I suggest getting Mach up and running with no extras first. Just your keyboard and mouse. Then after your calibrations and backlash measurements are tuned up start introducing the cool stuff. Personally I have an MPG2 and choose to use a Shuttle Pro instead. It would be nice if there was a Shuttle Pro in an industrial case!
    A lazy man does it twice.

  15. #15
    wire the motor bipolar parallel, your 7 amp driver can handle it's 6.1 amp requirement easily and a
    50V power supply will give the great performance for the motors 58v max.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    29

    Thanks guys

    Hay Guys thanks for advice .


    Mitch .......:banana:

  17. #17
    I was going to mention about kelings part numbers, It's pretty simple.
    An 8070 driver handles 80 volts and 7.0 amps.
    A 5056 driver handles 50 volts and 5.6 amps.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

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