[flojor10]

Can you cut passed an endmills doc for a .01" finishing pass on aluminum if you take 2, .5" passes? I'm cutting a 1" aluminum plate but my finishing endmill has a doc of .75".

[txcncman]

You can. The shank will rub. Use a "necked down" end mill to avoid this rubbing.

[dertsap]

put the tool to the grinder and undercut the shank

[louieatienza]

The "rubbing" might affect the finish on your edge. I'd just get an endmill with a 1" CEL, or get a necked endmill. If your bit is carbide, good luck grinding it down with a regular grinding wheel; even then unless you can do this precisely you may throw the endmill off balance.

[dertsap]

I have never heard of a hand ground shank being an issue for balancing unless maybe it is to be put on an extremely high speed machine , I've ground hundreds if not thousands over my career and have never had an issue .
its common practice


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[louieatienza]

I have never heard of a hand ground shank being an issue for balancing unless maybe it is to be put on an extremely high speed machine , I've ground hundreds if not thousands over my career and have never had an issue .
its common practice


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I guess if it can be done accurately and you have the means to, it's fine. But if you grind the shank, you basically defeat the purpose of having a "stub" endmill, and you won't be able to chuck the endmill up in the collet anymore; you'd have to chuck the endmill down the collet which might not be favorable if you need a "ridgid" setup....

Granted, on most DIY machines with routers for spindles, you wouldn't be able to chuck an endmill up that far anyway. I've cut shanks down to get the flutes closer to the collet.

[dertsap]

I guess if it can be done accurately and you have the means to.

A bench grinder a two hands , that's the way most shops do it

the shank only needs to be ground back 1/4" with .001 or more taken off of the shank , since the flute is .75 and the pocket depth is 1" , then it has to stick out at that extra least amount regardless whether or not the shank is ground , otherwise the holder will hit the work piece
grinding the shank a few thou isn't going to loose any rigidity what so ever in this case . Now a 1" flute length as you suggested would suffice but the extra 1/4" extra flute will affect the rigidity much more than a relieved shank would , chances are that would be the best bet in this situation but why run out for a tool when its so easy to work with what a guy has on hand

[louieatienza]

A bench grinder a two hands , that's the way most shops do it

the shank only needs to be ground back 1/4" with .001 or more taken off of the shank , since the flute is .75 and the pocket depth is 1" , then it has to stick out at that extra least amount regardless whether or not the shank is ground , otherwise the holder will hit the work piece
grinding the shank a few thou isn't going to loose any rigidity what so ever in this case . Now a 1" flute length as you suggested would suffice but the extra 1/4" extra flute will affect the rigidity much more than a relieved shank would , chances are that would be the best bet in this situation but why run out for a tool when its so easy to work with what a guy has on hand

LOL I was envisioning chucking the endmill on the lathe with a grinding attachment! I would imagine with carbide bits, you'd need a diamond wheel to grind it down? I tried unsuccessfully to sharpen some carbide tipped drills on the grinding wheel with no luck...

[dertsap]

anyone who uses carbide should have one
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/cat...gory_id/19917/







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[flojor10]

Thanks guys, Im going to put the endmill in the drillpress then with the angle grinder try to reduce the shank diameter. I'll post results soon.