[dabears]

Hello. I just ordered the KRMx02 book and was wondering if anyone here has built the machine. Any advice? Mistakes to avoid? Can't wait to get started on it. I hope to use it to machine guitar parts, cabinets, and engrave faceplates for my amps.

[louieatienza]

Well, the author is a member here, so you've come to the right place. Good luck!

[ger21]

The only one I've seen is the original.

[rflint]

I too got the book. Built a stand, found some of the steel local, ordered other parts as suggested in the BOM. Working now on setting up the X-beam. No problems with directions. Lot of holes to drill and tap. Didn't use the red paint.

[dabears]

Thanks for the replies all. Looks like a sturdy machine and the author's videos are what helped me to decide to start down this path. I was hoping there were some builders over here.

rflint good to hear you are building it. What did you build the stand out of? I have a drill press already so I'm ready to drill. What did you use to tap? Would love to see some pics of your build if you get a chance. There doesn't seem to be any on the KR forum.

[DonFrambach]

...
What did you use to tap?
...

I have found a tapping block available from Littlemachineshop to be very helpful: LittleMachineShop.com - Tapping Block, OMW I haven't broken a tap since I started using one. No affiliation, just a happy user.

Please post photos of your build!

[dabears]

DonFrambach thanks for the tip. Looks like a good helper.

[louieatienza]

Some may cringe, but I chuch all my taps into my cordless drill. I do use a home-made guide similar to Don's to get the threads started. Some TD Foamy, and it's quick work.

DO NOT use those cheap taps at the local auto store, get HSS taps! They cut cleaner and faster, and are more durable than the sintered carbon steel stuff...

[freecncplans]

I used my cordless impact drill with an adapter to tap holes on my machine. I broke a small tap before though. The adapter came from Enco.

Sean

[rflint]

My stand is close to the wood one in the book. Have casters that will lift it up to move when necessary. Will get a shot of it this weekend. May have to brace it a bit after it gets running. Here is a image of what I have done so far.

[dabears]

louieatienza thanks for the advice! Sounds like you got it figured out. I'm still researching how to do it but definitely will want to buy the HSS taps.

freecncplans do you have a model number? I tried finding an adapter at enco but didn't have any luck. thanks.

[dabears]

My stand is close to the wood one in the book. Have casters that will lift it up to move when necessary. Will get a shot of it this weekend. May have to brace it a bit after it gets running. Here is a image of what I have done so far.

thank you for posting your build. it looks great and I bet your anxious to start using it. i was curious to see if the book has led to any success and can see from your build that I have some work cut out for me. congrats!

[dabears]

.

[msimpson99]

My first recomendation is to purchase one of the extrusion kits offered by 80/20. They wont cost but a few more $ and all the end holes will be tapped.

If you purchased the parts piece meal then you will have to tap the end holes in the 3060 extrusions. Please note that the only reason to tap the 3060 is to add accessories and upgrades later. The only real required taps are the two holes on the top of the Z beam. You might as well tap the bottom two holes in the Z-beam as well as they can be used to install a Z stop.

I have built three of these machines and have used a set of Erwin taps. Dont get the titanium coated taps. They dont work well with aluminum. You can get the Erwin 5/16-18 tap from homedepot as a single and add a handle. However I also chuck up my taps once they are started.

[msimpson99]

The book has only been out a couple months so everyone who has purchased is still in build mode. A couple early adopters should be getting close.

Of all the books I have sold I can only confirm about 20 have started the build. Others are still in the research or waiting for vacation time.

I just got back from the USA Science and Engineering Fair. And after transporting my smallest build, I am in the process of reassembling the machine.

If any of you get to the point where you have to relocate your machines I can certainly give you some pointers.

Keep in mind this is an extreamly heavy machine and even the smallest build can be a hand full to move.

[msimpson99]

Of all the holes you have to drill, the aluminum riser block is the most difficult. The fact that its 2" thick aluminum and the you need to drill 7/16" holes makes for a process that will take some time. I recommend taking your time and working on a single block. Start by drilling smaller pilot holes first, then move to larger bits. Wear gloves and eye protection.

You will also have to drill holes across the sides. These are 4" wide and present the most challenging holes on the whole machine. A small 1/8" drill bit used to drill pilots will not reach all the way across the stock. So drill a 1/8" hole as far as it will go, then move to a 1/4" bit a drill a pilot all the way through with that bit, and then to the final size of 3/8"

If you take your time and drill only a couple holes at a time it will be a slow process but once the riser blocks are complete the build is a breeze.

[msimpson99]

One other thing you might want to consider is a set of templates. For me the most tedious part of any build is the layout of the holes in the riser blocks, plates and on the steel angle. Being tedious you are prone to make mistakes. I have created a set of laser cut templates that you can use to layout the holes.

This makes the layout perfect and you wont make any mistakes. It will cut the assembly time down by several hours. The templates are available on the web site.

[RossMosh]

Of all the holes you have to drill, the aluminum riser block is the most difficult. The fact that its 2" thick aluminum and the you need to drill 7/16" holes makes for a process that will take some time. I recommend taking your time and working on a single block. Start by drilling smaller pilot holes first, then move to larger bits. Wear gloves and eye protection.

You will also have to drill holes across the sides. These are 4" wide and present the most challenging holes on the whole machine. A small 1/8" drill bit used to drill pilots will not reach all the way across the stock. So drill a 1/8" hole as far as it will go, then move to a 1/4" bit a drill a pilot all the way through with that bit, and then to the final size of 3/8"

If you take your time and drill only a couple holes at a time it will be a slow process but once the riser blocks are complete the build is a breeze.

NEVER wear gloves while operating anything that rotates. If your glove gets caught in the drill, you will have problems.

[msimpson99]

I recommend thick canvas gloves. Not the cloth type. The canvas is less likely to snag than your ski.

If something was to catch the thick canvas the same would do far more damage to your hand it caught. The gloves have saved me from injury several times, and have kept me from getting burned by hot shavings.

In any case the choice is yours.

[ger21]

If something was to catch the thick canvas the same would do far more damage to your hand it caught.

The point is that with no gloves, it's extremely unlikely for your hand to get caught.

If a glove gets caught, it pulls your hand, followed by your arm, followed by your body into the machine, causing far more damage than a scratch or cut on your hand.

If your using a glove to clear shavings, that's how accidents happen.