[taiden]

Hey all,

After talking with microcarve quite a bit I decided to dive in. Previously I was doing a scrap yard build, and while that was fine I decided what I really needed was something that could be put to work several hours a day without much issue.

The commercially available options were poor and microcarve wasn't going to be able to meet my time constraints. I decided to purchase a Z axis from him to save considerable time and even money and to put the rest together myself. microcarve was an incredible resource and I cannot thank him enough. This build probably wouldn't have happened if it weren't for him.

I have already ordered everything I need minus getting the MDF at home depot and all the etceteras. I'm currently $50 under budget so I think I might scrape right by.

I wasn't going to post until I actually had pictures to show. The first item rolled in today and I unpacked it.

The pictures will be short and sweet so that if anyone ever needs to refer back to this thread for their own build only the really important stuff will be here.


cnc-1 by lukepighetti, on Flickr

Tried it out today with a straight 2 flute on some Mahogany in all orientations and it does 1/4" deep passes without any fuss at all. Looking forward to this.

[taiden]

Got my chinese limit switches and emergency stop in the mail. Total? $10.75 shipped from amazon.

Feels like something from a happy meal though. I kind of hope the estop breaks while I'm installing it so I can convince myself to buy a really nice solid one.


cnc-2 by lukepighetti, on Flickr

[IBBruin]

Chinese....... grrrrrr

[taiden]

Chinese....... grrrrrr

Budget is as budget does!

Lots of nice stuff is made in China, this estop is not one of those things.

Together, we can resurrect american manufacturing through small business innovation.

[IBBruin]

Budget is as budget does!

Lots of nice stuff is made in China, this estop is not one of those things.

Together, we can resurrect american manufacturing through small business innovation.

Yea I'm as guilty as everyone else when it comes to buying chinese. As I get older I contemplate the wisdom of my choice. What will my grandchildren do to make a living in 10 years.... 20..... 50? I'm afraid we are doomed to speak another language.

[Walky]

I usually buy the following kind of E-Stop button, and really like it (plastic, but doesn't feel cheap):

Emergency Stop Push Button 660V Switch Red Sign | eBay

Add a waterproof connector gland and you'll have a beautiful E-Stop :cheers:

[taiden]

Yea I'm as guilty as everyone else when it comes to buying chinese. As I get older I contemplate the wisdom of my choice. What will my grandchildren do to make a living in 10 years.... 20..... 50? I'm afraid we are doomed to speak another language.

They won't be making $6 estops, I can tell you that much. Perhaps they will be making the really intricate amazing things I see on here every day that low priced manufacturing cannot even begin to touch.

I usually buy the following kind of E-Stop button, and really like it (plastic, but doesn't feel cheap):

Emergency Stop Push Button 660V Switch Red Sign | eBay

Add a waterproof connector gland and you'll have a beautiful E-Stop :cheers:

That's a great tip. Thanks! Looks very solid. I may consider this one.

[Walky]

Some of them come with an "Emergency Stop" text sticker (or something like that) near the button, doesn't look bad but it's better to ask the seller if you mind about that. First one I got from China was branded "Telemecanique" on the plastic (can't remember the seller, it was a couple of years ago) and didn't have a sticker, the second one (from the link) was from another brand but seems to be exactly the same except for the sticker. It feels like they might be real brand buttons manufactured in China for cost reduction, but under higher standards than the average E-Stop button (Telemecanique is a real brand, it seems it has something to do with Schneider Electric). Or maybe they're really well made knockoffs?

[taiden]

Some of them come with an "Emergency Stop" text sticker (or something like that) near the button, doesn't look bad but it's better to ask the seller if you mind about that. First one I got from China was branded "Telemecanique" on the plastic (can't remember the seller, it was a couple of years ago) and didn't have a sticker, the second one (from the link) was from another brand but seems to be exactly the same except for the sticker. It feels like they might be real brand buttons manufactured in China for cost reduction, but under higher standards than the average E-Stop button (Telemecanique is a real brand, it seems it has something to do with Schneider Electric). Or maybe they're really well made knockoffs?

So you would say it's pretty solid? I might actually order that now. The one I have is a good toy but it was cheap, maybe $5. No skin off my back.

The one thing I like about this one is it has two switches built in, one NC and one NO. That's nice. What is the ebay one?

[taiden]

Alright well that settles it. I'll order that one after the CNC is up and running as a "good job!" gift. That way I don't have to include it in my cost sheet.

[taiden]

Took delivery of some awesome stuff today. I'm about to run over to Lowes to grab the stuff for the frame.


cnc-3 by lukepighetti, on Flickr

microcarve z-axis and YZ block


cnc-4 by lukepighetti, on Flickr

This is what a $200 order from McMaster-Carr looks like


cnc-5 by lukepighetti, on Flickr

Bits and bobs courtesy of McMaster

[Walky]

So you would say it's pretty solid? I might actually order that now. The one I have is a good toy but it was cheap, maybe $5. No skin off my back.

The one thing I like about this one is it has two switches built in, one NC and one NO. That's nice. What is the ebay one?

Mine are NC, I can't tell for sure but don't remember them having an NO post. Considering the button's power rating I'd say it's supposed to be NC so you can, for example, wire it between mains and a table saw's input to cut power.

I found a picture I took from the labeled button:

[taiden]

VERY nice. I'm sold. That's #1 on my list of "not needs but must haves"

Well I spent today mucking around trying to figure out how I wanted to mount my rails. I have a little Atlas 618 with hardly any tooling so it was frustration after frustration coming up with a way to mount them with sufficient rigidity and adjustability. Adjustability doesn't even look like a word.

After consulting with microcarve he gave me a(nother) gem of an idea which is to basically cut out a circle of MDF, then put a 5/8" hole in it. I will use a forstner bit because they leave an excellent bore. Then to find some way to take up the couple thousandths gap.

I think I might grab flanged bronze bushings and use that for the inside bore. I have to make a mcmaster order anyway.

[microcarve]

Don't let it frustrate you too much. You have the key parts....the
slide block and the Z.

The slide block is made on a special jig to have the bearings as
exactly straight, aligned and parallel as I can possibly do it.

The screw is also aligned at the same time, so it's exactly parallel
and aligned.

The rail spacing is exactly 3" apart from each other...with the screw/nut
in the dead center.

These parts....see attachments...

...assure it can be aligned exactly right.

The rail bushings aren't exactly perfectly concentric. But that works
fine because twisting them while adjusting the single bolt they have
while sliding the block makes getting it perfect very easy.

There's only a single point to tighten for each bushing, so that's very easy.

The aluminum bearing block is also aligned with the holes in the right
places, so again, that seriously simplifies everything.

The bearing block is bored for a 7/8" OD x 3/8" ID bearing for the screw.
Those used with clamp collars prevent any possible end to end movement
of the screw.

I can make and ship the parts if it gets to the point where you need them.
They'll work with what you have and make it a lot easier.

I won't have those parts til Monday or Tuesday, though...The ones I
have are designated for machines right now.

It can be frustrating at times when the right tools aren't available....but
it's a problem that's pretty easy to solve...


John

[taiden]

All day I wished I had a 5/8" bore in my spindle. Fun and done!

It's my dream to have a really beefy 618 with something insane like a 2" bore. The only times I'd ever need the length of a larger lathe is to do things with a steady rest that I could just do with a large bore spindle.

I think things will come together nicely with the bushings idea I briefly went over above. My only other concern at this point is pocketing for the skate bearings for the leadscrews. We'll see how it goes.

[microcarve]

....

[microcarve]

Drill 1/8" pilot holes....and use these...


Note that some have spurs on them...those are good for certain jobs...obviously.

You can modify them easily...they're just soft steel...for making a press fit hole.

Just always use a small pilot hole first to guide the point of the wood bit.


John

[taiden]

It's funny I had that same thought while in the shower. I think I'm going to use that to make a press fit hole for the bushings. I feel that allowing the shafts to spin freely will be advantageous, although immeasurably so.

[taiden]

Still making my rail mounts, although I feel really good about them now. Waiting to take delivery on a bunch more stuff from McMaster. I am still under budget by about $30 and I still need router bits. I do have some but in order for it to be totally turn key I feel as if I need to actually factor in the cost of at least one bit. I think I will scrape by on the budget. Pretty amazing.


cnc-6 by lukepighetti, on Flickr

I took delivery of my Keling 381 oz-in motors along with their connector pack that normally comes with the Gecko G540. I'm buying one second hand so it doesn't come with any of it's accessories.


cnc-7 by lukepighetti, on Flickr

I also picked up a 25A dc switched solid state relay. I will be using this for turning on and off the spindle from g540 and eventually I would like to use it as a basis for a do it yourself PID motor controller.

[taiden]

Just took delivery of my power supply, gecko g540, and cables.

Cables are 22 AWG and shielded. I dont think they are anything special, no constant flex rating for example. But they should do the trick. I realize now that I didn't actually need the extra cable ends which cost me about $10. Should I take that out of my budget? I'll leave it in for now...

Already has 3.25k ohm resistors in each cable. Should be good for the Keling 381 oz-in motors if I'm correct.


cnc-8 by lukepighetti, on Flickr